Photos: Back to back swells at Teahupoo
After a lean couple of years, Teahupoo has been relatively active during 2018. A big swell back in May was followed by a dynamic winter, while the past month was considered one of the best in recent memory.
The back half of October was very consistent; three large groundswells broke in the space of a week, followed up by several smaller swells ensuring that everyone got their fill. On tap were a contingent of Australians, Americans, and the obligatory hard-charging locals.
Harry Bryant was among those who posted up at Teahupoo for the October swells.
Words by Harry, photos by Tim Bonython.
"I've been to Tahiti a few times, for contests and stuff like that in town, but I've only surfed Teahupoo once before. That was with Mitch Parko, we both got knocked out of a QS comp and we hitchhiked down there. However, this was the first time I'd gone purely for a swell."
Harry tangled up in blue at Chopes
"The first couple of days were six to eight foot, really nice, and then it gradually got bigger and during the peak of the swell a few rogue twelve foot tow sets came through. Everyone was paddling up until it got to the stage where it was almost too big."
"All the local guys and the Hawaiians were just charging. It was pretty insane to see. I was just taking whatever I could get my hands on."
Koa Rothman deep on a backless surge
"Who impressed? I reckon Nathan Florence is probably the best guy I've ever seen surf. He is just completely fearless."
According to Harry, and everyone else who was there, Nathan Florence was the one to watch
"I went there with Chris James. He's spent a lot of time over there so I was just watching the rhythm that he gets in. He just paddles out, some days he won't even take off on a wave, he'll just sit there and wait for the wave that he wants."
Chris James rewarded for his patience
Timmy Hamilton forcing the issue
Anthony Walsh is a regular whenever Teahupoo breaks
"Matahi! Matahi [Drollet] is an absolute freak. He was getting some absolute bombs, but he also got the worst wipeout I've ever seen anyone get."
"He paddled in to a tow wave and got drilled, popped up just before the next wave hit him. The next wave was ten foot, I don't even know if he got a breath in. And that worked him as well. Then the ski driver - it might have been his Dad - was in there looking for him because it was a pretty bad situation. He was hooning around on the inside looking for him, and Matahi popped up and headbutted the ski and got ten stitches!"
[Editor's note: No, we don't have a photo of the above incident. Apparently Tim was snacking on a space food stick and a warm Pepsi when that went down]
Benji Brand's Teahupoo strike rate is as good as anyones: If he takes off, he'll almost certainly make it
Mikey O'Shaughnessy strikes a pose
Jarrod White also had a good make rate
Dom Walsh during a windless session
"Tahiti is the only place that I've been where, in the morning, everyone that paddles out, does a loop of the line up and shakes everyone's hands saying good morning. There's a really good vibe in the morning there. Whenever anyone paddles out, they say hello, and everyone's really respectful. But when it comes down to it, the right guys get the right waves, you know what I mean?"
Alvino Tupai
Enrique Ariitu gunning for the channel
"I'm glad I went for the amount of time I did. Normal strike missions can be hard; trying to score waves on a 'fly in, fly out' deal. But this trip wasn't a mad rush, we didn't have any pressure to get waves and stuff. We took our time, but got good waves anyway."
Comments
DORF!
I follow Nathan Florence on Instagram, he trains like a mutherfucka in between swells. It must be paying off
Beautiful light in those photos, fantastic work Tim.