We were all expecting something big, but not that big. Lachlan Rombouts' North Avalon behemoth could well be the defining image from the East Coast's huge black nor'easter swell. The photo, taken early Monday by Simon Hayward, isn't perfect, mist from the wave in front partially shrouds him, but the size is unmistakable. It was frightfully big.

The size has slowly tapered since then yet Lachie's barely stopped, he's had a gluttonous fit of big waves, hollow barrels, and singular camaraderie.

After trying for several days, Swellnet finally caught up with him on Wednesday morning.

Swellnet: You've had some big sessions these last few days.
Lachlan Rombouts: Yep, I'm rattled. It's been pumping, the best we've ever seen at North Avalon, and some people are saying it's the biggest swell they've ever seen it surfable.

What were your thoughts when you saw the storm develop last week?
I heard a lot of talk but I was just hoping to see North Av like you see it on the walls of Beach Without Sand [local surf shop]. I was hoping it'd get big 'cos the winds were going to be west and the swell direction was great.

And nerves?
Umm...yep, yep. I was pretty nervous but I'd been swimming and getting ready for it, and I also found out my best mate was going to be home, so it was a reunion. The boys were all down at Av.

What time did you paddle out?
Ah...I went to rock off the first time and got knocked off the seat and lost my board. It took me probably 45 minutes to get off the rocks. I probably got out there by nine or so. That wave came through not long after, so maybe 9:40?

So that was your first wave?
That was my first wave, yep.

Way to open your account.
Yeah, before we jumped off the rocks we were at the beach and I was with Barton Lynch and we saw these waves come through and they were fucken huge. Way bigger than the 12 footers and stuff that were coming through. When I saw those I realised how far out you had to sit to get the bombs. BL was calling them the biggest ridable waves he's ever seen at Av. Anyway, when I paddled out I sat really far out the back and waited a bit.

I'm not gonna ask you to put a size on it but do you think your wave was one of the biggest waves ridden at Av?
Yeah. A lot of the old boys were coming up and congratulating me, which I was pretty stoked on. It's the biggest wave I've caught in the last few years...maybe ever.

Lachie on that wave. Pic Simon Hayward

What about the board?
It was a 12 foot gun which is 4 1/4 inches thick, shaped by Dave Howell at Misfit Shapes. I had it made about a year ago and I havent had that many opportunites to surf it. I surfed it at big Longy [Long Reef] one day.

What waves did you have in mind when you ordered it?
Well, I wanted to travel with it. But it's also really hard to travel with 'cos you have to pay for freight. It increases your cost of travelling a lot. Basically I wanted to ride it in any big and shifty waves. I really like big boards, I feel safer on them. There are waves down the South Coast I'd like to ride it on.

We've run a Wave Of The Day of you at Deadmans, a notoriously sucky and ledgey wave, and you were on a big board.
That was only an 8 footer, but I do prefer the bigger boards. I like to get in early and knife it rather than get in late and take the air drop.

And dont bother with turns...?
Not too worried about turns, I just focus on the tube, but on the right section I can get a few turns in, which is fun.

Did the board survive the big days?
It got creased on Tuesday pulling into tubes but it didn't snap. It's an easy fix. It'll be ready to go again soon.

I've seen you stroking into big ones in Chile. You've done a few trips there.
Yeah, I've done two trips there. When I first went to Chile I was 18 and that was my first big wave experience ever. I spent 2 ½ months there and got to surf a bunch of solid swells. Thats what inspired me to surf big waves. That first trip. My first day in Chile I surfed 10 foot waves and they were the biggest waves I'd seen at the time, and on my last day it was in the 15 foot plus range which was cool. So in 2 1/2 months I did a lot of growing. Put me in good stead.

First day in Chile. Pic Aaron Hughes

What about your short term future goals?
I'll be chasing waves. I'm just gonna try and follow my heart and try and get tubed. Stay positive and stay healthy.

Is there anything else you'd like to add?
That wave was a real gift, I was stoked to share it with my mates, and Avalon rocks!

(Head shot thanks to Aaron Hughes)