Laird Hamilton and the Portuguese chicken burger
If there's one thing you can count on in modern surfing, it's this: when big waves break the real turbulence hits, not at the moment of impact, but a few days afterward when the media – that's you, me, and everybody with an internet connection – steps into the fray.
And so it goes with Nazare.
But before I take the usual route and inform everyone of their own ill judgement, allow me a few observations:
- There's a sweet irony seeing an Old World wave stepping into the big wave arena. America started the big wave chase, and more recently the big wave measurement gig. They spurned the traditional measurement of surfers feet for a more favourable metric – literal height. Thus the 'face race' began and 20 foot waves instantly became 40 foot waves and surfers began seeking the glorious 100 footer that would bring everlasting fame and a pay incentive. Thus did height become everything. It was crude but befitting of the land where supersize is the new regular, except now the most super wave of them all doesn't break in America. Going on the reaction to Monday's session everyone thinks Portuguese Burgers are best.
- Nazare may hold the biggest ridable waves in the world. It could be the veritable Everest of surfing! Yet mountaineers who know say Everest ain't the hardest hill to climb. Its broad, wide buttresses allow for (relatively) easy access. There are smaller yet harder mountains to conquer. Take heart from that analogy, disgruntled big wave men.
- For all its misshapen bulk, Nazare still has incredible height on takeoff. And that means speed. Some of the waves ridden on Monday showed up deficiencies in board design. If Nazare is to stay on the big wave map – and I have a feeling the circus is gonna set up regular winter camp – then the surfers will have to look closely at board design and performance. Maybe they'll reconsider how to tackle it. It seems a likely place to experiment with Laird Hamilton's old foil boards. Whip into the waves early, glide with the board's rail hanging well above the chop, don't get caught inside - simple!
Now that I've invoked the holy name of Laird it's time we brought him into the conversation. Last year I wrote a column titled 'Why big wave measurement is a swinging dick' after Garrett McNamara claimed his world record wave at Nazare. Now Carlos Burle has beaten that and it appears the stocks of some big wave surfers are dropping, and they don't like it one bit.
So go on Laird, unzip it for us:
Comments
The issue seems more about the Media portraying it as the be all and end all of big wave surfing. We all know that compared to paddling Jaws or macking Cloudbreak, or towing into a sub sea-level suck monster, it really isn't that radical.
But it isn't not radical either, and Laird doesn't outright denounce it. He just tries to play it down (on a non-surfing platform nonetheless) to the level it probably should be regarded (IMO).
I don't buy his stance regarding if you wipeout it doesn't count.
If you make it down the face of the wave and it crashes behind you, only to mow you down surely you can't take that away from the person.
We measure the biggest waves from trough to crest, and if you're standing at that biggest/tallest point, it counts.
When it's crashing down after you it's more than half the size and doesn't even matter anyway.
I agree Craig - Carlos made that wave - made the drop, rode it and eventually got mowed down. Still counts in my book
I'm with you guys on the wave counting.
It's not like it's a performance wave - getting down it is all you're meant to do.
I'm with you guys on the wave counting.
It's not like it's a performance wave - getting down it is all you're meant to do.
Yep, same. I'd be claiming it as a ride if it were me! Not too dissimilar to the scenario that mowed down Ross and T-Ray at Outer Log Cabins.
Or the drop in the Eddie that scored Greg Long a perfect 100.
Once a wave is all whitewash it's over anyway. What's he gonna do, look for an inside reform?
bbahaahhaa exactly
The analogy with Everest is apt on another level also. Once it was climbed media interest in mountaineering declined. You are not making the front page now for climbing anything. Surfing big waves is only different in so far as media intersst will only be maintained aslong as the waves being ridden get bigger or more spectacular. The question then is how long can that go on.
Yes but dying is another matter.
So did Maya get knocked out by the wave or by the ski?
that's a ride, fuck monster drop in wild conditions ...about a 10 second ride before he gets engulfed by the whitewater. I wonder why laird didn't show for that swell ?
I think that if it wasn't Brazilian Carlos, but instead say, Buzzy Kerbox, then Laird would have a different view on the matter.
Hydrofoil boards at Nazare. Reckon they're a possibiulity, Rusty?
The foil would definitely ride much faster than the heavily weighted tow board simply because of the minimal friction. But Man, so scary just thinking about getting caught by the foam locked into the K2 boots and bindings, while attached to the 20kg hunk of aluminium. Ive had some insane hold downs in close to 20 ft surf while locked in with two jackets on.
In addition, pearling at such speed is a significant risk for foiling big waves. If the foil surfaces after hitting a bump, then the whole thing slumps and nosedives, while the rider keeps projecting forwards, but the ankles are locked to the board. I've felt my knee ligaments stretch from this happening.
Its very possible, but I think it would require even bigger balls to foil than to tow such size.
Yeah for sure I would be claiming that wave, not that I would try,But...??????
If you climb to the top of Mt Everest and die descending coming down, can you claim that one.? (George Mallory English mountaineer 1920's).
Chicken burger for thought.
Full respect for what he has done, and he makes some valid points, but geez, Laird really is an obnoxious dick.
agreed. "U-S-A!"
Laird Hamilton - "Expert Surfer"
Nuff said.
Bloody hell when did surfers become such conformists??? Think for yourselves and don't be so boring.
Laird might be a bit off the mark with the wipeout thing but he's right to call em out on this. We're talking about a bloke going straight down the face of a wave where the whitewater doesn't even make it to the trough. Does it even make it half way down the face?? It's a bloody big lump of swell that capped and nothing more. And now Laird's some jealous pansy chump?
FFS you lot need to think for yourselves for a minute. Nettle is way off here with his petty insinuations and you've all bought it. Sure Laird's obnoxious but who else has the cred to call these guys out for what this wave is???
Surfing is choc full of boring characters all riding the same boards, doing the same thing and not treading on anyone's toes. It's bloody good to see one of the true innovators getting into a bit of a shootout.
1962
...or thereabouts.
Well played, patty.
Navarre,looks like a big burger and is so boring to watch.....I don't think that its even in the same league as Jaws.....
I think Laird is Just Laird.....incredible waterman and innovator.........and he has really explored and been on the frontier of whats possible in surfing...you don't have to like him...but ya should respect what he's done for big wave riding......
the Tow boards they are using at Navarre...look really slow and no-one seems to be able to do a big bottom turn at High speed and get to the top of the wave.....
ah if those paddle bastards weren't paddling Jaws......I wonder how much better the bds would be...and the barrels we all would be seeing.....and off the top hacks at High speed....but then that's just me liking to monster waves surfed like its 6'..yewwwwwww
Im glad there paddling Jaws. Tow in surfing on 50 ft waves on 5ft boards reminds me of snowboarding to much. Im just an average surfer but I could tow into jaws, it is so much easier than paddling its not funny, but I sure as fuck wouldn't paddle jaws. It takes so much more skill and balls to paddle.
And now Skindog weighs into the debate:
very logical. what a concept!
hey goofy,no you could not tow into Jaws......not big anyway....you would not have the expertise or the fitness.....
I think the paddling is great ,such an adrenalin rush ,just trying to pick a wave,and then make the take off is huge....
but there is a place for TOW,as you can ride the wave completely different and catch soooo many more waves.....
great comments by Skindog......but the question arises ..if there was no media,wold they still do it??
Hi Brutus, yeah I agree towing does have it's place. Like at Chopes when it's over a certain size. I guess the point I was trying to make is that you don't need the "expertise" to tow into big waves.
One session that really sticks out for me was that cloud break session when they called the comp off and streamed the paddle session. That was AMAZING to watch. Where if it was people towing it wouldn't have been nearly as impressive, IMO. But each to their own. Cheers
Well done Ken
Laird Hamilton has spoken ...
Hey goofy,I agree Fiji was amazing to watch and I still have the recording I watch every couple of weeks truly amazing waves and was insane watching who was riding what and how all the guys pushed paddle in tube riding on bds from 10 6" to Reef McIntosh's best barrel on a 7 4........
however from a tow/High performance point of view.....waves would have been caught a couple of hundred meters further inside and surfers would have back doored the peak as per Koby Abberton did in the Globe Fiji pro a few years ago.
to say Towing need less expertise is a myth.......how do you think you would go on a big set wave at Cloudbreak,letting go the rope and then having to read the wave then to backdoor the peak at twice the speed of a normal paddle surfer......then now ya in the barrel with ya supasonic 5 9 tow board,and have to actually navigate the whole length of Cloudbreak weaving in the barrel..
yeah its easy to catch the wave towing but you need so much ability and a set of gonads to boot.....and of course if you wipe out in the barrel,you can't penetrate out the back of the wave...so you go over the falls and have to survive the ensuing wipe out and potentially the set to follow....
So each to his own...for me there is the holy grail of having to design,shape and test 5 9 x 17 x 1 1/2" board that will travel at 90K's an hour ride the barrel,square of the bottom into a big high speed top turn hack .....all at double the spped of any paddle board...plus ya get a shit load more waves...
The youtube clip above has been taken down. I think it is this one. I don't think Laird was downplaying Carlos achievements. His opinion was simply that he didn't make the wave, doesn't count.
My interpretation of his comments of Maya was that she shouldn't have been out there at this particular session. Understandable considering she just about drowned.
I watched RCJ get 40+ waves in a sess and understand Brutus statements. There is a big differential in the number of waves you can catch towing v paddling. The new standard really seems to be if you can't possibly paddle it then its time to tow. Unless you find your own Jaws and don't tell anybody.
Also that was a big bit of bump Maya hit. What can you do with surfboard design? - I mean there is only so much v to put in. Its just that Laird and Ross have strong legs to take the impact v Maya.
3 STEPS TO END ALL ARGUMENTS:
1. Use or design a mechanism that accurately measures the 'face' size of a wave
2. For a wave to 'count' it must be 'measured' and 'recognised' (like a Guinness record)
3. There could then be a biggest wave per surf break (the biggest Chopes, The Biggest Mavs, The Biggest Porto Burger'
Surely one of the large surf company's could see the potential ROI in supporting such a venture.
The end of the argument? Sorry V-Land, that's just the start of it. Check this thread for how wildly varied wave size can be: http://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2012/06/01/how-big-guess-size-wave
The issues are many:
At what point of the wave do you measure?
Waves look different depending upon the poistion of the photographer. If there are many photographs whose photo do you trust?
How do you know the elevation of the photographer?
Errors of parallax.
Finding a fixed measurement to extrapolate from.
etc etc etc...
Get a 3D animation nerd and his maths buddies in front of the computer and get them to map it out via complex triangulations of the various photographs into a 3D model. Nerds froth on that kind of shit!!!
Is that how they are currently doing it? I would be interested to know how the 'officials' currently figure it out.
http://www.theinertia.com/business-media/eddie-would-go-should-maya-thin...
Getting a bit on the inertia. Does anyone know about the botched rescue attempt?
Who knew the Hawaiian definition for "Laird" was buzzkill?
Jeez there are some photoshop people with waay too much time on their hands.
aside from an even bigger swell i think everyone will quickly get bored of this wave. just boring to watch
so where the fuck was mark visser when this swell hit ? ? ?