With all this extra time on my hands thanks to Covid-19 isolation I've been sifting through some surf photos I've taken over the past 10 years of travel. Im not that great behind the camera, I'm a lot better at the journey which got me to the place where the photo's were taken. I thought these were worth sharing and then encouraging others to share theirs. Surf and travel/adventure are intrinsically linked, and no doubt theres a good pics and stories out there out there so feel free to share.
Here's a random assortment, some familiar locations and some not so. Happy mind surfing!
Nice photos, Bob. How's Cosmo BTW?
Anyway, seems like this is where I should've posted my 2 cents worth!
ramble on, as Robert Plant so wisely said.
Cosmo's great, hasn't changed a bit.
That right hander at the end looks bloody awesome! By the looks of the pics there's a fair time span between some of these, and some geographical distance.
That righthander has to be every natural footer’s dream destination.
You been , Andy ?
I’ve never been interested. Perhaps because I don’t know how good it gets I suppose. Never seen it looking inviting. It’s never appeared to be a perfect wave.
Dunno, that last photo looks pretty good!
Maybe J-Bay is “better” but I really like the idea of having a look at some slightly bigger waves at a place like that - William Finnegan sells it well.
No, never been there and doubt I ever will but it’s a nice fantasy.
The section of Will Finnegan's book on that big right hander is brilliant.
how's the shadow in the first photo , looks sharky to me
Nice photos. How’d you go at Puerto Bob? Packs a punch
The right that Bill Finnegan speaks about looks amazing in that photo!
......that right certainly looks amazing but is there a dreamier right than Honolulu Bay?
Love to hear a story from someone who’s surf it.
Haha, then it starts to be a case of the wave itself or the things surrounding it as well - I figure I’d have a better chance of getting waves at J-Bay and Madeira than Honolua but I could be wrong.
Uncrowded Honolua with that warm, clear blue water would be hard to beat.
Then again, sometimes if you keep your finger on the pulse, the waves you can find locally can blow your mind.
I spent about a year of my life in that village. Lost for words right now just thinking about it.
What years, Island Bay? Small world. Know Tony K? He gets a guernsey in Finnegan's book as I recall
And surfing Jardim back then reminded me of Winkipop...especially at 6 to 8.
Apart from there being just the one surfer at one particularly opportune time.
And bigger was erm, very exciting...especially getting in.
Any even half guesses on photo 7?
And how's the local in the first photo? Scared the fuck out of us...later.
Oh yeah, Jeffreys is definitely one of those waves that lives up to its rep too. Pics pending.
1995 to 2001 were my main Jardim years. Would go for a month or two at a time.
Tony K is a good friend. Stayed with him lots, and have quite a few of his paintings.
And yes, plenty of scary times, but so much joy, too. Surfing Ponta P alone under the cliffs. Walking to P do M before the tunnel, having strong coffees and pastries between surfs.
Pupkin so in the first photo is a white shark in the wave yeah?......did you know or realise after seeing the photos.......haha
Wow huge shadow!
And number 7, looks like up north WA region?
Hey IB, you know Simon J from Gower, Wales?
Did a few Hawaiian seasons with him before he started shunning them for Madeira.
Have met him, yes, but don't know well, Stu.
Nice guy. Classic pommy curmudgeon.
Got sent these shots from Hawaii late-90s, Simon, myself, and Chris Bertish, who went on to win Mavs in 2010 and paddle the Atlantic on a SUP.
Love the thread.
Not sure about a couple of those photos though Stu :-/
Not sure where you think they are but you're almost certainly wrong.
@goofyfoot - sure does. There's a reason I was sitting on the beach taking photos some of those days.
Haha. The second ones a dead giveaway. First ones not an issue but the second one?
Anyway, good shots, and great to see them, just not sure that second one should be floating around online.
Stu, somewhere north of aus, but not too far north?
(and east of indo)
North of here, yeah, but sorry, won't mention the country, Pops.
Fair enough, wouldn't ask you to. Secrets are best kept that way.
"Chris Bertish, who went on to paddle the Atlantic on a SUP. "
As you do.
Always did like a challenge that fella, whether it be circling the whole apartment without touching the floor, surfing Sunset at night, or paddling Jaws (back when it was tow only). Wasn't the most stylish surfer but seemed impervious to fear, and he also knew how to capitalise on opportunities when they arose.
Hard to imagine what his next challenge might be.
Carpetman....are you a pilot for Cathay ?
Do you have a place in the Mentawais being built needs onsite supervision ?
“ but seemed impervious to fear”
Not many people are truely like that are they?
Mark Healey, RCJ, Camel, Koby A maybe, Kirby Brown
Crazy as he was - and he did some loopy stuff at times - it was also reassuring to surf big waves with Chris. It helps to have cooler heads in the water when all hell is breaking loose; you see their lack of distress and try to mirror it yourself.
Hey Blowin, nope, I'm just another person seeking quieter waves, and quietly hoping they stay that way. Although with the current climate I probably don't even need to worry.
Was out there a month or so after you guys this year by the sounds of things.
Photos ....or it never happened.
No photos .......must’ve never happened !
Stu is a legend. Don’t worry about that shit. Gone already !
A sneaky peak = no harm , no foul.
I know a bloke who has never shown a fear of any wave that I’m aware of.
Indo....please , please , please just close your lips.
Maybe even delete that tidbit of information ?
Does he have a name blowin?
Well thats dropped the bomb Sir Blowin!
Surfing a wave a few hours from home last year for the first time. Roll in take off to a fun double up. Hope to get back there this winter
What did I miss? Guys posting photos of secret spots near Copenhagen?
The Streisand Effect.
Goofy...those deep water waves are the worst for hold downs. A sizeable chunk of ocean chasing you down there !
Island Bay re: Madeira, I first went there end of 2001. Haven't been back since they actually started the build at Jardim. Though it was a fight all the way.
The first time I went I actually met and shook hands with the little pudgy toad of a president responsible for that and other atrocities around the island.
My Aussie mate's partner is from the island. She first put us on to the surf in the mid nineties.
You know Ralph F from Croyde as well? Met Barry B from Ireland over there too. Great artist. His daughter has a cracking name in tribute to a cracking wave.
Ponta and Paul are great waves too.
Interesting place to say the least.
I met Ralph F from Croyde.
he told me about it.
Short hair in the nineties, Stu .
Carpetman....good on you , mate.
May you continue to score unharried by the madding crowds !
The spirit of adventure lives on .