Small and surfable short term with dynamic potential later next week

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

Sydney Hunter Illawarra Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri Jan 10th)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Not much for the weekend with small E/NE swells and light/mod N-NE winds Sat, slightly stronger on Sun- both days should be surfable
  • Start of next week now looking small and weak with small E/NE swells likely
  • Should see a small bump in size from the E/NE-E mid week (Wed or Thurs) as a small low moves down from sub-tropics
  • Unstable pattern later next week with potential low moving off South Coast bringing a spike in S swell Fri
  • Possible E-E/SE swell Sun from infeed into low
  • Very low confidence in outcomes due to model divergence- check back Mon for latest updates

Recap

Yesterday came good, as winds relaxed, allowing a morning land breeze and clean conditions on 3-4ft of SE swell. Surf is holding in this morning, although down a notch from yesterday with sets still to 3ft under light winds now tending to light E’lies then clocking around NE through the day. 

Best day in a while yesterday

This weekend (Jan 11-12)

 No great change to the weekend f/cast. High pressure drifting towards New Zealand and a broad inland low maintain a mod E-NE flow across most of the Eastern Seaboard. 

The current SE-E/SE swell fades out with small E-E/NE swells hanging in there to 2ft through Sat. 

Not much difference to conditions or surf size on Sun. Compared to expectations on Wed we should see winds stay a little lighter through Sun with early light breezes (NW) tending to mod a’noon NE breezes. 

Nothing amazing but there should be a small, surfable wave on hand. 

Next week (Jan 13 onwards)

Weak high pressure in the Tasman with a very unstable air mass drifting eastwards over the continent. We should see a couple of days of light winds with weak E-NE breezes and small NE windswells to 1-2ft through Mon and Tues.

During this time, models are suggesting a small trough of low pressure will bud off the inland low and drift into the Coral Sea off the SEQLD Coast.

Initially the localised fetch will benefit the sub-tropics with a useful increase in E tending E/SE swell from Tues into Thurs. 

The small low looks to move southwards through the week aiming up at more temperate areas as it does so. 

Expect some revision on Mon but a small increase in E/NE’ly swells should be on tap through either late Wed or into Thurs, up into the 2-3ft range under light winds.

From there, outcomes become prone to very large error bars. The crux of it is the fate of the inland trough of low pressure as it approaches the Tasman. 

GFS suggests the inland trough moves Northwards, with a trough spawning a small low east of Tasmania and rapidly deepens o/night into Fri with strong winds to gales developing off the south coast and Bass Strait (see below). Under this scenario we would expect a rapid spike in new S swell through Fri, up into the 5-6ft range at S facing beaches. The low then washes out and becomes absorbed into the general trough of low pressure hovering in the inland. Local S swells rapidly ease into the weekend, then rebuild as an E’ly infeed into the low extends out towards the North Island through the Tasman. This would see a new E-E/SE swell fill in through Sun into Mon.

More low pressure then potentially forms off the QLD coast and in the lower Tasman later in the week. 

The EC prognosis is for a low off the Far South Coast to stall next to the coast with no real S’ly flow expected and a minor NE infeed initially, drawing out into the Tasman over the weekend and generating useful E/NE swells. 

With poor run to run and model to model consistency confidence is very low on outcomes. Check back Mon and keep fingers crossed one of the more surf-filled outcomes is still a live possibility.

Until then, have a great weekend!

Comments

sean killen's picture
sean killen's picture
sean killen Friday, 10 Jan 2025 at 9:08pm

Just about done with surfing dogshit waves now.. I’m heading into a surfing depression zone of self doubt !!!head has been in groveling mode too long ..I’m sweating on this new forecast for a decent waves!!!!!!!

Deanocarve's picture
Deanocarve's picture
Deanocarve Saturday, 11 Jan 2025 at 11:20am

Come up to Sydney to look after my ol man who has dementia, now I've got depression the waves are shite and when there slightly decent it's more crowded then the best waves back in Vic ,Sydney suks balls !!

teaqueue's picture
teaqueue's picture
teaqueue Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 10:59am

Not allllways.

https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2022/04/05/gallery-close...

Definitely riding the twinny more than I'd like lately though.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 6:46am

Four days out and the models are holding true for a rapid transformation this Friday/Saturday. Winds not looking too good but could change depending upon where the trough forms.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 7:22am

And EC is better than GFS re winds.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 7:49am

Does not look like a Jan synoptic/prognostic chart.

Jan 2018 we had a similar event which ended up being the biggest swell of the year.

sean killen's picture
sean killen's picture
sean killen Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 8:50am

Will reshape the banks at least..they are terrible at my local

greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 12:47pm

It's been so shite now for so long, it's scary that I've been riding the 7' soft board in 2ft runners ( when it's not howling onshore )& been having a good time!

Thegrowingtrend.com's picture
Thegrowingtrend.com's picture
Thegrowingtrend.com Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 12:52pm

Hey the Manly cam had a big pole through the middle.
This and the shit surf is making me consider my sanity/subcription

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 3:04pm

Should be fixed in a bit.