thermalben

Plenty of fun windows of waves

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 5th June)

Best Days: Most days (except Monday) should have a good swell/wind combo.

Recap: Thursday saw large S’ly swells in the 8ft+ range across many south facing beaches, slightly bigger than forecast, though the southerly swell direction saw the usual wide variation in size across the coast with much smaller surf at protected southern ends. Early W/SW winds were reported at many beaches through the morning but it swung S/SW into the afternoon. Today has seen a steady drop in size to 4-5ft and conditions have been nice and clean with light variable winds. 

Late Friday slabs at Shark Island

Manly stretch looking fun this arvo

This weekend (June 6-7)

There’s another pulse of SE swell due to fill in from anytime about now onwards, which should provide a great morning of waves on Saturday with light variable winds keeping conditions clean. 

Open beaches are likely to see inconsistent 4ft sets, though southern ends will be smaller and general surf size may be a little smaller south from the Illawarra (the responsible fetch off New Zealand’s West Coast was aimed towards more northern locales). There’ll also be some small S’ly swell in the mix too, from W/SW gales exiting eastern Bass Strait today in association with a passing front. 

Saturday’s SE swell will ease through the late afternoon and overnight, and should be back to an inconsistent 2ft for Sunday.

However, we still have a small long period S’ly groundswell on the way, generated by a polar low well below the continent over the last few days. The leading edge of this swell is due into the South Coast very late Saturday afternoon and should provide a full day of very inconsistent, but fun 3ft+ waves at most south facing beaches. Some of the more reliable south swell magnets (such as the Hunter) could pick up the odd bigger bombs near 4-5ft+ range, owing to the expected large wavelengths. Though, expect very long breaks between waves. 

Sunday’s winds look reasonably good overall but a weak low forming off the Far South Coast during the morning will push fresh southerly winds across some coasts during the day. Model guidance has pulled back the timing across Sydney and Hunter coasts, so at this stage it’s looking like the Illawarra could see good conditions up until early afternoon, with the southerly breeze then affecting Sydney mid-late afternoon onwards. 

As such there should be some nice waves up until lunchtime at many regions. Get in early!

Next week (June 8 onwards)

Sunday’s low off the South Coast has been successively downgraded over the last few model runs, and therefore early next week isn’t looking terribly large in the size department.

Monday will probably see southerly wind-affected waves of no major size (say, 3ft+ south facing beaches), and there’s a suggestion in the European model that an easterly fetch may develop on the low’s southern flank during the day, delivering a short range swell for Tuesday. But model consensus is low so it’s not a confident swell right now. Keep your expectations low from this pattern, and aim for a morning paddle when local terrrestrial effects are most likely to influence local winds to have some degree of SW.

Anyway, the rest of next week is looking a little slow surf wise - but there will be waves most days.

A weak ridge of high pressure will maintain clean conditions all week (from Tuesday onwards) and the biggest influence on the surf will be small long period southerly swells from migrating polar lows. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday are all best positioned for the most size (peaking around 3-4ft), but I’ll firm up the specifics in Monday’s notes. 

We’ll also see some small long range E/NE swell from a distant system (currently in the Tahitian region) arriving around Thursday but no major size is expected due to the large travel distance. 

Have a great weekend!

Comments

SimonJ's picture
SimonJ's picture
SimonJ commented Friday, 5 Jun 2020 at 7:53pm

This morning was epic on the NB. No issues with high tides or banks from what I surfed/saw. Few issues with drop ins

billie's picture
billie's picture
billie commented Friday, 5 Jun 2020 at 9:24pm

Where did you surf mate? I live on NB but actually went Eastern beaches for work and scored fully. Good times

Billie

Mcface's picture
Mcface's picture
Mcface commented Saturday, 6 Jun 2020 at 11:41am

Yep, optimal conditions for the Sydney beachies this morning, and had the same issues with two drop ins, not that it affected my session too much. Looking more straight out there now, but keen to get back out and luck into some corners

stoked23's picture
stoked23's picture
stoked23 commented Friday, 5 Jun 2020 at 9:16pm

Good fun waves ... yeewww!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben commented Saturday, 6 Jun 2020 at 8:08am

Lovely lines across the Northern Beaches this morning.





FrazP's picture
FrazP's picture
FrazP commented Saturday, 6 Jun 2020 at 8:49am

Far out all we have at Cron is shit close outs and superbank crowds. The one remote bank on the beach is a circus. Even on dark last night i had trouble scratching a few. Think i need to get in the car. Great swell and conditions.

yodai's picture
yodai's picture
yodai commented Saturday, 6 Jun 2020 at 11:02am

Fraz
Exactly Newcastle beaches same.i cannot recall deeper and longer gutters here in past 10 yrs ,maybe longer
Shame cause we have had good swell and winds for past 2 months
Sadly The bank setup is the probably the main missing ingredient!

DeathToCompSurfing's picture
DeathToCompSurfing's picture
DeathToCompSurfing commented Saturday, 6 Jun 2020 at 8:15pm

Cronulla Beaches are excellent at turning ground swell and offshores into a close out

SimonJ's picture
SimonJ's picture
SimonJ commented Saturday, 6 Jun 2020 at 8:57pm

Billie to answer your question I was at Dee Why yesterday just nth of the main peak. Today I went for a drive to sth narra to escape the crowd but found it pretty crowded. Still got a few nice rides. Was very surprised when I went past curly around midday easy 6ft clean & not that crowded....Buoys are still up so can't see it dropping too much for tomorrow but who knows.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben commented Sunday, 7 Jun 2020 at 8:29am

The full tide's causing a few problems now, but earlier was looking very nice on the Northern Beaches.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout commented Sunday, 7 Jun 2020 at 9:58am

Shark Island Cam - Friday, 5 June - 8:46am replay @ 8:51am (4m55s in).
Also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-hTsW_NfEw&t=1509s
Something makes it feel like that was perhaps payback.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Sunday, 7 Jun 2020 at 5:01pm

Bloke drops in but Ox gets barrelled.

Bloke goes the push and shove but Ox stays standing.

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner commented Sunday, 7 Jun 2020 at 10:26am

Seems like pubs opening and travel being allowed helped our crowds this morning.

Daltz007's picture
Daltz007's picture
Daltz007 commented Sunday, 7 Jun 2020 at 5:04pm

Quality beaches about as big as you want it (well me anyway) on Friday with not a soul but whales and dolphins, oh and a mate from Syd. :-)
Boom, what a great day. Hope you scored some crew