Plenty of surf ahead, just gotta work around the winds

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Fri 25th April)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Fun leftover E swell Sat & Sun with generally OK winds
  • Tricky surf Monday with developing S/SW winds and a mix of swells
  • Smaller, cleaner leftovers on Tues and Wed
  • Large (NNSW) and windy conditions developing Thurs, easing Fri (smaller SE Qld)
  • Plenty of swell into next weekend too

Recap

Onshore winds have maintained below average conditions for much of the last few days though this morning offered a window of light variable winds and cleaner surf. Wave heights have been around the 3-4ft mark from the east. 

This weekend (Apr 26-27) 

The synoptics are looking quite complex across the Tasman Sea, but the good news is that we’ve got plenty of waves on the way. 

The trough off the coast (responsible for the onshores) will slowly move south on Saturday, resulting in light morning winds and afternoon sea breezes across most regions and thus an improvement in surf conditions.

Model guidance is calling for a minor dip in surf size on Saturday followed by a pulse on Sunday, but I’m unable to find the source for this increase (admittedly, on a tight time schedule this evening). Additionally, it looks like the models are combining Saturday’s dual short period easterly swell trains into a single swell train on Sunday, which is most likely providing a false boost of surf size.

So, let’s round out the forecast for both days somewhere in and around the 3ft at most open beaches. 

Saturday afternoon’s sea breeze will probably be around to the NE, which may freshen N’ly overnight across some regions in response to a developing low off Southern NSW early Sunday. This is then expected to swing more to the NW through Sunday morning and should clean things up quite nicely across the open beaches. 

As such, Sunday morning is probably the pick of the weekend. Here’s hoping you can find a bank somewhere. 

Next week (Apr 28 onwards)

The low developing off Southern NSW on Sunday is unlikely to be much of a swell producer for our region.

Most of the winds around it will be aimed towards Southern NSW, though there will be a thin fetch of S/SW gales just off the MId North Coast on Monday and this may generate an unusual spread of short range southerly swell for Far Northern NSW and SE Qld in the afternoon (or maybe early Tuesday).

Note: this combo of low period and southerly swell direction doesn’t make sense for Far Northern NSW and SE Qld, but good surf has eventuated quite a few times before - although it often only affects a small percentage of locations. Keep your expectations low, and your eyes peeled.

Otherwise, residual E’ly swell will maintain plenty of surf across much of the coast on Monday. Offshore winds will keep conditions clean in most regions though the MNC will probably fall under the influence of the aforementioned S/SW gales (not quite as strong, mind). 

The Tasman Low will quickly ease through Monday so smaller surf is then expected through Tuesday and Wednesday, including some background E/NE energy generated by a broad fetch atop a large high east of New Zealand (right now).

The head of this fetch will be enhanced over the weekend by a small tropical low drifting south from a position south-east of New Caledonia, that will briefly display impressive wind strengths (see below) - however the large travel distance means surf potential will be around 3-4ft+ from this source mid-late week (biggest in Northern NSW, a touch smaller in SE Qld). It’ll also be overshadowed by a local weather system pushing up the Southern NSW Coast on Tuesday.

This next system will be in the form of a sharp trough, which will initially provide a subtle increase in S/SW breezes across Northern NSW on Wednesday, before it kicks in properly on Thursday with strong winds across most locations, easing into Friday.

An associated local swell will increase rapidly from late Wednesday (lower MNC) through Thursday with size likely to push north of 6ft+ in Northern NSW by the afternoon, easing into FRiday as local winds throttle back. We’ll see smaller surf in SE Qld, probably around 3-4ft across the semi-exposed points (bigger at exposed northern ends and south facing beaches), however with the sand deficit playing a strong role in the chances of good surf right now, it’s hard to have confidence in next week's outlook.

Anyway, we'll have a better idea on specifics on Monday, right now is too early to have much confidence.

There’s also a suggestion that the broadscale pattern associated with this system may linger across Tasman longitudes into the end of the week, which could maintain smaller but still-strong surf from the SE into next weekend. 

It’s certainly been an Autumn to remember. 

See you Monday!

Comments

Mata's picture
Mata's picture
Mata Sunday, 27 Apr 2025 at 8:54am

Caught a few fun waves this morning. Big high tide with backwash rolling through the lineup. The sand is still pretty crap - I couldn't see another option up or down the beach for as far as I could see.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 27 Apr 2025 at 11:10am

Another big flood plume out of the Tweed, water almost had a tinge of blue here yesterday.
Back to brown today.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 27 Apr 2025 at 11:55am

Brown water running hard out of the Richmond on the outgoing as I walked past the market.

So sick of it.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Sunday, 27 Apr 2025 at 12:09pm

It’s never ending is it? I can remember a clear blue day or two before Alfred, so many brown days for most of summer and then post Alfred it’s been shite the whole time

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Sunday, 27 Apr 2025 at 12:20pm

Super frustrating. 2-3 and offshore but not a bank to be found

swellsam's picture
swellsam's picture
swellsam Sunday, 27 Apr 2025 at 2:06pm

south straddie style banks from the spit to broadbeach as far as the eye could see this morning.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Sunday, 27 Apr 2025 at 9:18pm

What a run it's been, so surfed out.

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 7:22am

It's been good. Certainly not perfect but very fun, which is really all that matters. I flagged this morning because of the dirty water but it looked the goods! Looks like more on the way too!

It's been a weird start going from nothing to non stop swells. New normal with the warm ocean?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 6:50am

Thats hard to hear Craig.
I've surfed once in the last week and it was complete junk.
Never surfed so little over an autumn.

Normally by now- Anzac Day- everything is in full swing.

Might have to start burning fuel to get a wave count up.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 7:46am

Yeah sorry Steve, you should be up and roaring for sure, hopefully the coming run gets things moving.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 8:14am

It's just a fascinating study of regional differences.

Normally NENSW has a fairly coherent pattern- with wave quality and conditions.

This autumn has been exceptional for the spread.

Wed was tiny and clean here before onshore E'ly winds- barely a surf day.
Thurs/Fri/Sat was straight onshore, rainy junk. Not surfable.
Yesterday was small and clean but no banks- a wave for the keen.
Today is similar but smaller.

But 200 k's down the road it's been a typically consistent autumn run of surf.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 8:24am

Yeah good local winds have been the difference.

It's been a very La Niña like autumn with so much rainfall.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 8:26am

Local winds and sand.

Did a good recce on the weekend- everywhere inshore here is gouged and deep.
Back bars are ruler straight.

The best outcome for wave quality here would be a Nino winter with tiny S swells and offshores for 3 months. Just to slowly let things build up and let the wide storm bars move back in.

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 10:39am

Local winds definately but sand is equally terrible on most beaches. Shories only and if you want turns (plural), gotta go to the points and keep your expectations low.

There are maybe 4 places I'd surf this time last year that are nuked beyond recognition. My $0.02

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 10:42am

Sneaking into the chat to say I hope winter is anything but tiny south swells...

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 11:58am

i've always wondered how you check these things. can you just park and the beach and see the banks like that? i can only tell when its crystal clear water (which it isnt), or by where the waves are breaking.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 1:43pm

walk the headlands at low tide.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 10:34am

Bit of blue creeping back into the water colour.
Hopefully we’ve turned a seasonal corner.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 10:54am

Not sure about that Andy.

Back to a showery pattern this week.

Another 40-60mm will put more dirty water into the nearshore zone.

What's interesting also is the duration of really bad sandbars here.

Was talking to a local surfer this morning, 70 years old, lived here all his life. He's never seen the sand so bad for so long.

It was just a regulation late winter bank buster S swell that destroyed all-time sand late July last year.

It just hasn't recovered from that- and I can't work out why.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 11:12am

Fookin ‘ell.
I’d better make the most of what’s in front of me now then.
It’s surfable.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 11:18am

What a Difference in Water Colour Tweed Bar Cam from this Time Yesterday.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 12:07pm

Lots of brown water steaming out of the Tweed right now.
Seems like you need less and less rainfall to mess the water up lately.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 12:07pm

Lots of brown water steaming out of the Tweed right now.
Seems like you need less and less rainfall to mess the water up lately.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 3:28pm

I’m completely surfed out. Surfed 5 times in the last three days. Last two days have surfed twice each day. Autumn swung into full gear from Sunday.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 3:29pm

Double post apologies.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 3:39pm

Double froth!

brevil's picture
brevil's picture
brevil Monday, 28 Apr 2025 at 3:41pm

fun morning round our way , clear water , surprisingly good sand and fun longboard waves .... happy