Small mixed bag with a period of onshore winds to get through before conditions improve
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Mon 21st April)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Tiny leftovers and small E swell Tues with a S’ly change (AM in NENSW, PM in SEQLD)
- Increase in short range SE-E/SE swell Wed but with S/SE-SE winds
- Winds switch more onshore Thurs (E/SE-E) with a peak in short range E’ly swell
- Traces of S’ly groundswell in the water Thurs/Fri
- Fun sized E’ly swell Fri with light winds
- Small blend for the weekend with light winds Sat, W-SW winds Sun, tending SW-S in NENSW
- Increase in S swell likely late Sun for MNC, rest of the region Mon into Tues with S/SE winds
- More E’ly swell likely from Tues next week
Recap
Good Fridays all-time swell slowly eased over the Easter weekend. Sat still saw plenty of size with 6ft+ sets through the morning in NENSW, 3-5ft in SEQLD, slowly backing down in the second half of the day under light morning offshores and a’noon SE-E winds. Sunday offered up a more user-friendly 3-4ft (occ. 5ft set) in NENSW, 2-3ft in SEQLD with clean morning conditions and a slow ease through the day with morning light winds tending to a’noon N’lies. Back to small surf today with a few 2ft waves to be had under light morning winds from the NW, expected to tend N’ly through the day at mod paces.
Some macking pits on the back banks if you could get out there
This week (Apr 21-25)
We’ve got a more subdued synoptic outlook this week with weak high pressure currently in the Tasman and a complex troughy area of low pressure situated off the Southern NSW/Gippsland coast. That trough moves NE, backed by a large high pressure centre currently in the Bight. We’ll see the trough bring onshore winds and swell as it moves up the NSW Coast through the first half of this week. That will mostly obscure some traces of long period S swell pushing up the Tasman. A distant low in the South Pacific currently in Tongan latitudes will send some small but good quality E’ly swell late this week, with more favourable winds.
In the short run we’ll see the trough move NE through tomorrow, with a brief window of lighter W-NW winds before a morning SW-S change across NENSW works it way up to the QLD border by lunch-time. Not much surf to speak of with tiny leftovers to 1-2ft and some small E’ly swell from a fetch off the top of New Zealand offering up a 2ft set every so often.
With the trough expected off the MNC/Northern Rivers on Wed and the high moving towards Tasmania we’ll see a high pressure ridge up the entire eastern seaboard and onshore winds through Wed, mostly from the S/SE, tending SE to E’ly through the day at mod/fresh paces. Early winds should be SW across most of the region. Small amount of short range S/SE-SE swell will build through the day to 2-3ft but conditions will blown out at exposed breaks with some tiny peelers on offer across the Points.
Winds shift more E’ly on Thurs and under a straight onshore flow it’s hard to see anything of any quality. There will be somne short range E/SE-SE swell to 2-3ft in the water if winds do relax a bit. Traces of long period S swell may offer up a novelty wave at sheltered spots but they’ll be tiny by the time they wrap in.
Pressure gradients ease on Fri with good odds for a morning land breeze before light a’noon breezes kick in- more E/NE-NE south of the border and SE-E/SE north of it. A current low and strong high combo in the South Pacific looks to send quality but very inconsistent E’ly swell to make landfall on Fri. In the absence of any other major swells this will provide some fun but very slow sets from the E in the 3ft range. Be prepared for some very long waits though.
This weekend (Apr 26-27)
We’ll see another trough approach the region this weekend, bringing a S’ly change through Sun (or Mon for SEQLD) as it moves offshore and forms a low. As this stage it looks like we will see an initial NW-N flow on Sat, wiuth winds shifting more W’ly through SW on Sun (remaining W’ly for most of the day in SEQLD). Only small surf expected Sat with some inconsistent sets from the South Pacific and some E/NE swell from an infeed into the approaching trough/low- all topping out around 2 occ. 3ft. If winds play ball, there should be a few fun beachies about.
Same again for Sun with a small, clean blend of swells, mostly E’ly, to 2-3ft. By close of play and depending on the timing of the trough/low we should see some new S’ly swell showing across the MNC. We’ll update timing and size through the week but early indications are 3-4ft at S facing beaches, smaller elsewhere.
Next week (Apr 28 onwards)
Quite a complicated outlook for next week with plenty of model divergence so we’ll sketch out the basic outline and fill in the details as we get more model agreement.
The weekend’s low looks to skip away quite quickly but we should still see some workable S swell, especially in NENSW developing through Mon and extending into Tues in the 3ft range at S exposed breaks.
Another S’ly change is likely Mon or Tues as a front pushes through the Tasman, backed by another strong high. We should see some S swell from this broad scale pattern, along with S’ly winds, possibly easing quickly as high pressure moves up over southern NSW.
Also in play is another round of E swell from a tropical low moving towards the North Island onto a pre-existing E’ly fetch. The pattern looks quite mobile at present, so no major size is expected (3ft or so) but swell from the Eastern quadrant looks likely from Tues next week.
In other words, typical autumn pattern of medium size swells from the E and S- potentially combining with light winds.
We’ll pencil it in for now and see how it looks on Wed.
Seeya then.
Comments
Reports on the beachie situation post Friday’s swell? I’m on MNC sand seems pretty bad
Surfed Sunny Coast Sunday and the dunes are like 3-5m lower than usual. Lots of geeks looking for shit on the beach with the sand gone. Banks okay (kind of), with some places other than the usual suspects with good A frames. I guess it's look around in places you don't usually go?
What dunes would these be? Thankfully, most beaches along the Sunny Coast have been spared from development along the immediate coastline and still have healthy dune systems.
Correct. When crew are constantly whinging about the state of the banks on the SC, I have to wonder. The lack of swell they get ensures more stable sand setups, together the healthier dune systems. . Having once lived there and every trip back, it’s the one feature that amazes me is the generally quality and consistent beachie banks.
After two big swells in the last month it’s pretty dire down in the southern parts. Deep gutters and a thin band of sand way out the back. Not even any shories for the high tides either unfortunately.
I dunno hey. The dunes might be there but I rarely come across banks up here that offer up much more than a 5s ride.
I'll plus one that statement. They have no swell but they do have above average banks.
this year has been great up on the sunny coast compared to last year i reckon weve had 10 plus really good days of surf . alot of gutters but defintely some banks around
Tweed is pretty bad at the moment.
We're basically in the same position as before the swell- very sand starved.
Any sand that was laying about, now stripped out.
It looked for a minute like the SE angle was trying to feed some sand (from offshore deposits?) into the outside section, but next day revealed that to be an optical illusion.
All the weird little bits and pieces waves that were there before- I guess artifacts of a denuded coast- are still there and supplying a few rideable B grade options.
Very, very far from where we were last year, when all time banks were setting up.
Probably the worst sand set ups I’ve seen in 15 years
It's almost impossible to comprehend, considering Craig's article about the insane swells we've had, but this has been the worst autumn here for a long, long time.
+1
+2
So many options around here that were awesome last year just don't even exist for a decent wave at the moment.
There were some small, fun rock runners I saw yesterday with no-one out.
Light winds, brown water.
By the time I went home, grabbed a board and my son, walking out to the rock-off the wind switched and went straight, hard easterly. Turned small fun waves into an unrideable mess.
It's been that kind of autumn.
This is the current state of sand at one of my locals - there's usually a couple of metres of sand where those people are at the shoreline.
Fair to say there's a sand deficit.
Which you'd think would affect the spots just north as well.
I haven't had a good look further north but you'd have to assume that unless there's a shitload out wide, then there's going to be a big gap in the conveyer belt if there's not already.
Just to the south of those photos there's zero sand (which I don't think is unusual) but large amounts of gravel/aggregate have been shunted north around the headland. All part of natural processes I'm sure, but it doesn't seem to bode well for banks - there's a large amount of filling in to be done.
The sand along the superbank is depressing. Sure, its a shit show out there regardless of sand, but today, with the howling ESE winds, there was no other option. The sand feels like a tweed coast point on a BAD day, with 3x the crowd. How long is this going to last? That big pile up outside on greeny ruins everything. 80+ dudes on the one shitty bank along the cooly stretch fighting for a shit wave. Is the shift of sand a gradual process over time, or should it all shift at once? Because at the moment theres been no signs of any sand movement, and its prime autumn swell season with SE winds dominating. I'm over 2025, been such a shit year, unless your a clown with a ski whos willing to participate in that madness that was alfred.
Ok umm.. reset our lives to the MNC a year ago from vicco. Set up at a fairly quiet regional point to get back in the water after more than a decade wasting time without surfing. Gotta say I'm happy as larry with the sand situation here, surfing my arse off, getting good waves from locals, being a bit of a cunt to touro's, sanding a few boards and generally loving life.
Maybe my standards are a bit low wave-wise but if this is below average sand/conditions then fuck yeah, I'm all in.
Good to hear mate.
it's a variable situation, seems the further north you go the worse the sand is.
Most of the quality waves around here haven't broken properly for 6+ months, which is very unusual.