Summer of discontent continues
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Wed Jan 8th)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Trough brings small S-SE swells Thurs, easing Fri, favouring NENSW, remaining tiny in SEQLD
- Tiny surf becoming established over the weekend
- Not much on offer early next week, at this stage- tiny NE windswells at best
- Possible front and low moving into the Tasman mid next week and supplying S swells favouring NSW- check back Fri for updates
- Still nothing significant in the tropics
Recap
Small tradeswells yesterday came in slightly warm in the 2ft range, favouring the Sunshine Coast, with clean morning conditions. Size has backed down today with minor 1-2ft surf (at best) and light winds tending to light E/NE breezes with a trough bringing a light S’ly flow up to Coffs.
A crowded grovel for the keen
This week (Jan 8-10)
A small trough of low pressure has stalled off Seal Rocks with a SE infeed south of the trough expected to ease over the next 24 hrs and a light/variable flow north of the trough. Apart from this short-range feature, which is whipping up some local, short range swell for Central/Southern NSW extending up to the MNC, pressure gradients in the Tasman and Coral Seas remain very weak. Easing swells through the rest of the week with not much on the radar until mid next week.
In the short run we’ll see a light/variable flow about the NENSW region, tending to light E’ly breezes, more NE’ly north of Ballina-Byron. The MNC region will benefit most from the stalled trough with 2-3ft surf, grading smaller the further north you go and becoming tiny in SEQLD. Areas south of the border should see a small, surfable wave, with a micro-grovel in SEQLD.
Similar winds continue into Fri with light morning winds (possible land breezes) tending to light/mod E-NE breezes in the a’noon. Surf will tend to small E’ly swells in the 1-2ft range in NENSW with tiny surf in SEQLD.
This weekend (Jan 11-12)
Weakening high pressure near the South Island and a broad inland low will see winds shift N-NE over the weekend, freshening through Sunday in particular. Tiny surf continues through this period for SEQLD.
No great size for Sat with a small grovel on hand from E/NE-NE windswells in the 1-2ft range favouring the Yamba-MNC stretch. Conditions should be fair under light morning breezes tending to mod a’noon NE seabreezes.
Winds freshen from the N/NE on Sun with more small NE windswells in the 1-2ft range in Yamba-MNC, offering a grovel for the keen. Remaining tiny for areas north of Byron into SEQLD.
Next week (Jan 13 onwards)
Weak high pressure in the Tasman and a N-NE flow to start next week with a couple of days of small NE windswells on offer. A massive low pressure system sits on the other side of New Zealand but that won’t be of any succour for us. If it was in the Tasman, we’d be on for a 6-8ft swell.
Expect small 1-2ft NE windswell Mon, likely easing back to tiny through Tues and into Wed, although depending on the N’ly infeed into the approaching low we may see workable NE windswells during this period, favouring the MNC region.
From mid-week we are likely to see a shift as the inland low gets absorbed into a frontal system and low moving from the Bight into Bass Strait. That should see a SW-S change and S swells as frontal winds from that direction operate on Tasman seas. Still some model divergence with EC suggesting a stronger low moving into the Tasman and becoming slow moving with a larger S swell from Thurs next week.
GFS suggests a more standard frontal system which moves across the Tasman and generates a spike in S swell Thurs, easing later in the week.
Too early to have any confidence in specifics, especially with weak high pressure support expected.
That pattern of weak high pressure and transient lows or troughs in the Tasman does look to continue in the medium term suggesting more small, weak surf as our summer of discontent drags on.
Comments
Not one trade swell on the horizon and we’re practically halfway through summer.
This forecast made me so fkn mad, especially that last sentence, i think i need help haha.
Come down lads there’s waves aplenty for you down here
I just took a squizz around the local traps.
To add insult to injury, despite months of small, weak surf the banks are still largely crap.
how can you tell without swell? i can never tell what the banks are like until a swell comes and i can see how they handle it
Low tide- straight, mid storm bar on the beaches with gutter and close-out shorey.
No sand or weird wide sand on Points.
Dorsalwatch
Distance from Shore
N/Am
Location
The Pass
REPORT TYPE
Drone
number of sharks
Comment
Public report: Large shark sighting at the pass just before on my drone lots of surfers and a number of sharks around underneath them. One in particular was very large as big as some of their longboards. Thanks Jye
thank christ I still have fishing. there's been some good mackarel lurking off the SC, and whiting and trevally have been rife around the rivers. If i didn't have fishing I'd be on anti depressants by now.
Reports of a shark encounter this morning at South Kingscliff Beach. I was in carpark getting ready and a few crew were discussing it, apparently a 3m white came very close to a guy and he had to discourage it with his board.
thats crazy. i didnt think whites would handle the warm summer waters up here
Scrotie...Where the Fook have you been Mate
obviously not in the same science class as you
Thanks Jono, via the wonders of group chat your msg spread very quickly.. which in this scenario is a good thing!
lovin the Shakespeare and John Steinbeck references!!
forecast around Jan 18th looking better
Don't get too excited, models have been jumping all over the joint on that one. Each run is highly variable from the last. Hopefully we get something surfable out of it though.
Ah, give me a grain of hope ...
So what’s with the Noah’s?
More eyes / reporting or more of them?
Just this week they’ve been spotted cruising through the pass, Caba, nth wall, Dbah and that buzz at Kingy today.
Noosa too.
sprout was that a legit sighting ??,
coincidental that the next day there was waist high runners on the inside points, plenty of punters out also
Yeah not sure, didn't hear first, second or third hand confirmation.
copy ,
i only saw the posts on the socials.
This is what I wonder. Are there more sighting or are the few sightings that always happen (and you never hear about) reach so many more people due to social media/ chat groups etc……..I suspect the later
What is also irrefutable is that with more humans in the water there will always be more interactions.
I do refute that.
Whether there are 10 people in the water or 200- if there are no sharks around there are no interactions.
Conversely, if there are more sharks around, it doesn't matter whether there are 10 people out or 200.
The increase in shark sightings is well correlated with tagging and listening station data- which is independent of humans in the water.
White shark sightings from all sources used to be very rare in the sub-tropics.
They are now common.
"Whether there are 10 people in the water or 200- if there are no sharks around there are no interactions."
"Conversely, if there are more sharks around, it doesn't matter whether there are 10 people out or 200."
Not quite. More surfers means more breaks are being surfed, at increased times throughout the day, meaning the opportunity of a shark interaction increases.
In theory- I'm not sure that applies around here, or into SEQLD.
Go back 30 years to the mid 90's.
Could you really say that there were less breaks being surfed in Ballina at less times during the day?
My experience would say no, in fact the opposite. There are less breaks being surfed now.
Whole swathes of the shire are now very rarely surfed because of increased shark interaction probabilities.
That whole stretch between Ballina and Evans used to be regularly surfed in the 90's.
Pretty much a no go zone now.
Same with 7 mile Beach (Lennox to Broken)- very few takers for the back banks there now on any given day.
I don’t know mate. I’m talking the surfing population in general not just your microcosm.
We all know sharks are about a lot of the time, mostly uninterested and mostly unseen.
It’s my experience that most surf spots are more crowded than they used to be. With the advent of social media and more eyeballs you’re always going to have more shared sightings.
There very well may be more sharks to go with more ocean users.
I hear you.
Social media has been around since 2007 at least. If the sightings are increasing it's probably reasonable to assume there are more sharks around.
Especially white sharks.
Especially when those anecdotal sightings are backed up actual hard data from tagging/listening stations.
You had guys who surfed their whole lives around here and had barely seen a shark.
Very hard to find someone around here now who hasn't had close encounters.
The evidence seems compelling to me when taken as a whole (attacks, encounters, tagging data, sightings) that especially white shark populations have increased in the sub-tropics.
ie, the reason there are more sightings is because there are more sharks around.
Which would be consistent with range expansion from a recovering population.
Have to agree Fr and similar story here as well........
I remember reading an account of George Greenough describing him and a mate getting heckled big time by a shark up 7 mile.
I've surfed there solo a few times and it wigs me out. And the banks are usually crap so its not worth the risk.
Is this little 10s S swell on the QLD buoys likely to last until the morning?
It was pretty weak here.
Thanks mate. Will check a magnet hopeful of a grovel.
Dbah had the occasional 3 foot set roll through this morning. Wind went onshore but light at around 9am. Better than nothing I guess?
Next week now looking more dynamic, but still tons of model divergence.
Looks like some kind of infeed/trough block setting up. Fingers crossed something comes to fruition.
South swell magnet finally gets some S swell :-)
I've been loving these cloudy, moody summer days.
Clear water and so atmospheric.
Fun waves last few days in crystal clear water varying shades of turquoise with the passing storms, stunning.