Poor surf to continue for some time

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 5th January)

Best Days: No great days. Time to sell the quiver and buy a set of golf clubs. Perhaps some lawn bowls. Hell, even a game of croquet is likely to get the adrenaline rushing more than the ocean over the next week or two. 

Recap: Freshening S’ly winds increased short range S’ly swells across Northern NSW on Thursday with sets around 3ft. However, very little size made its way north of the border. This swell has eased back today and early light offshore winds have swung into a moderate sea breeze. Wave heights have remained tiny in SE Qld. 

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

This weekend (Jan 6th - 7th)

It’s not a good look for early January.

We’re starting off with an almost blank canvas on Saturday, due to a lack of regional swells. Winds will be light and variable in the morning, tending NE into the afternoon and becoming moderate to fresh across the Mid North Coast. But wave heights will remain very small - there are simply no new swells inbound, only residual energy from today.

Sunday is an interesting kettle of fish. 

In addition to a small long period S'ly swell pushing across exposed south facing beaches south of Byron (from a system that traversed the waters south of Tasmania earlier this week), we may see a small pulse of SE swell into the afternoon, from a complex low that developed off New Zealand’s West Coast yesterday. 

ASCAT satellite data is now in and whilst one swathe showed a small region of strong SE winds in our swell window (last night), some 12 hours later (this morning) it was all but gone. This very short duration is not a favourable outcome for swell production, despite the strength of the fetch.

The models have 0.3m of SE swell at just over 9 seconds arriving through the afternoon across Northern NSW, but I’m not holding out much hope for any major size or consistency. An optimistic outlook (and hey! I'm a glass-half-full-kinda-guy) would be for occasional 2ft sets at exposed beaches, but even then we’re expecting northerly winds to freshen through the day so the only clean options will be inside protected northern corners. 

Winds will be lighter north from Ballina (though still northerly) however most beaches are unlikely to pick up any size, just some small, stray afternoon sets at exposed northern ends. 

I’ll keep an eye on things throughout the day and will update in the comments below if anything materialises. Otherwise, see you at the Coolangatta Bowls Club around 4pm. 

Next week (Jan 8th onwards)

Another round of model changes for next week. But the short story still remains rather unfavourable for Northern NSW and Southeast Qld surfers. 

Unfortunately, the trade belt is expected to remain too far north in latitude to favour our swell window. As such, the parent high pressure system will be positioned as to drive northerly winds across the coastal margin from Monday thru' Friday (inclusive). Winds will be strongest in the south (i.e. Mid North Coast) but we’ll still see the adverse effects of this pattern across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW too. 

Swell potential is also limited from our other swell windows. Monday should see small levels of SE swell across Northern NSW (a spread of energy originating from gale force S/SW winds developing parallel to New Zealand’s West Coast today and holding through the weekend) though I’ll be surprised if exposed south facing beaches south of Byron pick up much more than an occasional 2ft+ wave. This will then ease through Tuesday

SE Qld beaches may see some minor trade swell through the first half of next week, but I doubt it’ll push much higher than 1-2ft on the Sunny Coast, with smaller surf south from here. 

A small front will clip the Southern NSW coast later Tuesday and a moderate S/SW fetch associated with the parent system to the south may generate a brief flush of southerly swell for Northern NSW later Wednesday and Thursday, though no great size is likely. A ridge building through the Central Tasman Sea on Wednesday should build local short range E’ly swell for the Mid North Coast into the afternoon and Thursday though once again, no great size or quality is expected.

Even our long range South Pacific sources have been wiped off the charts, whilst a few fleeting systems in the Tropical South Pacific are too small and too far away to have any real potential for our region.

As such, the wait for good surf continues. Hang in there! 

Comments

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Friday, 5 Jan 2018 at 8:57pm

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz finally get time off ........and its flat againnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn.Might have to sack Ben and find someone who will at least bullshit us and give us some hope.

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Saturday, 6 Jan 2018 at 6:59am

As the summer rolls on the paddle board on the lake is looking good! Ben are the long range charts giving any indication of cyclonic activities in our swell windows?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 6 Jan 2018 at 7:11am

Nothing showing at the moment.

B.B.Blitz's picture
B.B.Blitz's picture
B.B.Blitz Sunday, 7 Jan 2018 at 7:47am

Pretty sure this happened last year but not as bad,,,,,,,,,,,soon as the holidaymakers left it pumped.Couple more weeks then happy days.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 7 Jan 2018 at 8:12am

Couple of buoys picked up a trace of longer period S'ly swell overnight (13 seconds) but it seems to have disappeared this morning.

No sign of anything from that NZ low yet (not that we'll see much, nor was confidence very high anyway - many beaches may well see nought from that system).

Coffs Harbour surfcams are probably your best choice to check in periodically for this potential energy; that region should see the swell first. At least with a near flat ocean at the moment, we're starting from a fresh playing field, so any new swell wil be easy to notice (rather than to identify from within an otherwise active surf zone).  

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 7 Jan 2018 at 8:14pm

Haven't been online since early afternoon, but Coffs is showing the new SE swell right now, pretty much bang on expectations with inconsistent sets just up around the 2ft mark. 


donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 7 Jan 2018 at 8:22pm

Tweed and Byron buoys both showing some new energy around the 10-11 sec mark.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 7 Jan 2018 at 8:31pm

I ain't very confident it'll hold into tomorrow though. Probably peak overnight, may show a few waves early morning and then fade rapidly during the day. Still don't think we'll see much, if anything north of the border either (maybe some stray sets at exposed northern ends). 

Still looks like a crappy week ahead. 

The week afternoon looks better though, developing trough north of New Zealand a strong southerly change-cum-Coral Sea ridge from Sunday onwards. Let's concentrate on that!

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 9:09am

Few sneaky 2ftrs on the sunny coast this morning early. Was really fun, then it just completely stopped and there was just the half foot wind swell. Maybe the last remnants of the low?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 9:40am

Yep quite possibly. Well done for getting some! 

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 7 Jan 2018 at 8:54pm

Fuck this.

I'm going fishing in Queensland.

shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Sunday, 7 Jan 2018 at 10:18pm

Looks like about 2 weeks till the MJO makes its January appearance. Almost always ends well. Send us some down this way too please

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 9:37am

Surf?
whats that.

Glad I filled the tank in those late Spring/early summer swells.

This is abysmal.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 9:41am

Small definitive lines from the SE on the Tweed Coast this morning, but no more than 1.5ft or so. Northerly already into it too.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 10:38am

There were about 8 million people surfing a tiny but well shaped wedge at Australias best known secret back beach yesterday.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 10:54am

I'm more concerned about ciguatera than about people throttling one another for a waist high beachie.

Amyone know anyone that's copped a dose ?

Fish Face's picture
Fish Face's picture
Fish Face Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 11:05am

Yeah, a mate of mine and his family got it from a big coral trout caught in Nth Qld last year. Nasty stuff. Took months to come right but all seems ok now.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 11:41am

Yep, lots of my family in N.QLD have it.

I say have it because once you have contracted it the symptoms are lifelong.

Stay away from big fish, certain fish, ?????? I'm sure you know the species most at risk.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 11:49am

It's not an issue in WA so it's not usually a concern but I've been reading about the situation in QLD.

Going fishing up off the Sunny coast and wondering what the story is with the Spaniards. Are People keeping fish over 6 kgs ?

The whole deal sounds very shithouse. And the dinoflagellates responsible are meant to be increase their range South quite rapidly. Seems like an exponential increase in incidence. Though still from a smallish number of sufferers ( 50 in Qld in 2015 ) . Nearly all reported cases arising from eating Spanish Mackeral . There must be a shedload more than 50 Spaniards eaten so is there lack of reporting or is it not a genuine concern ?

Anyone got any anecdotal reports from SE Qld ?

Fish Face's picture
Fish Face's picture
Fish Face Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 12:25pm

I'd say eating Spanish only 6kg and under is a good idea. Apparently someone got it from an 8kg spanish recently. These days I just avoid them completely and eat the spotties instead. I'd say a lot of instances of ciggie poisoning don't get reported.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 12:42pm

I just read something somewhere where they did research into ciguatera in spaniards and concluded the size of the fish wasn't a factor.
Hang on, let me see if I can find it.
Nope, can't find it, take that with a grain of salt.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 12:51pm

Devastated.

They're my favourite fish.

Thanks for the help gents.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 1:53pm

I copped a dose from a Spaniard i caught of cairns last year. Just copped another dose last week after chowing down on another spanish i caught same area.This is not great as usually eat fish 3- 5 times a week.gotta chuck it all out now.poisoned most of my family and a few friends to boot. I've eaten a lot of fish all my life and this was first times for me.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 2:15pm

What sizes were they please SM ?

Did it fuck you up ?

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 2:51pm

First time they weren't big fish, tracked it down to two caught of Arlington rf only around 8-10 kg. Latest one was bigger around 18-20 kg same area. A guy did a half arse study on a boat i work on few years ago. We kept samples from 10 or so Spanish for him to analyse for ciguatoxin. Turned out 6 of those fish were positive, and two with quite high levels. All those fish were eaten, yet none of us got sick from them.I used to be a pro Mack fisherman and to be honest it seemed to pretty rare.Altho that was 20 year ago

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 2:55pm

Yes it fuct us up. But not to bad . Headache. No energy sensitivity generally not feeling wonderful for a couple weeks. Slowly started eating fish again after 3 months

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 2:34pm

Was told years ago to feed it to a cat or dog,maybe dingo if your going back to where you were,if you were worried about it cause they have a bad reaction.....maybe someone elses pet....sorta like the canary in the coal mine.

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 3:27pm

Went to Fiji a little over a year ago and went to a restaurant in Denarau before we went out to the islands. Asked what they recommended, and they said 'the Walu - it's our national fish and it's delicious'. We ordered it and it was indeed a beautiful meal. Ever curious, I researched Walu when I got back to the hotel wifi. I found this:
http://blog.medellitin.com/2008/12/escolar-world-most-dangerous-fish.html
If you want a good laugh, read the comments at the bottom of the article. Some funny shit-your-pants stories in there. Suffice to say my wife and I had a couple of tense days waiting to see whether we were about to fall victim. Thankfully we didn't.
Turns out Walu is Spanish Mackerel. I knew of ciguatera in Spaniards, but not 'waxy esthers' - although maybe it's the same thing. I asked the driver of the boat that took me to Cloudbreak about it. He said he eats heaps of it and never got sick, but has heard plenty about others. He reckons not filleting too close the skin might help. Definitely not a scientific opinion.

PS. a couple of years ago there were a few reports from people who caught Spaniards off Palm Beach reef

seaman-staines's picture
seaman-staines's picture
seaman-staines Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 9:19pm

I spent an hour reading those comments- funniest thing I’ve read for a long time. Cheers.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 3:07pm

Escolar isn't spanish mackerel (walu).

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Monday, 8 Jan 2018 at 3:25pm

No the article freaked me out cos they were saying it was! Seems there is a bit of cross-naming confusion. I think it's Hawaiian Walu, but not what the Fijians call Walu. As a sidenote, we went fishing and caught a decent red bass (classified high-risk for ciguatera), which they took back to the resort. I didn't eat any more fish till I got back home...