Pumping waves ahead

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 10th December)

Best Days: Sat/Sun: strong SE swells with good winds for semi-exposed points. Mon: easing swells but good conditions. Tues/Wed: good chance for some more E'ly groundswell with good winds. 

Recap: Small leftover surf with variable conditions on Tuesday. Northerlies created problems for much of the day (north of Evans Head) but winds went offshore in the wake of strong afternoon thunderstorms (36mm in 30mins at Cooly? And 42mm at the Seaway in under an hour? Well done!). Light to moderate SW tending SE winds have provided clean conditions at most locations today alongside small residual swells.

This week (Dec 11th - 12th)

Love these complex weather patterns! We’ve got a developing low off the southern NSW coast on Thursday that’ll dictate our surf, wind and weather for the following couple of days, but ultimately Thursday will see strengthening northerly winds in most areas with small residual swells. 

Winds should be light and variable north of Byron to begin with (and will strengthen throughout the afternoon) but conversely, winds are expected to be fresh northerly along the Mid North Coast in the morning, easing into the afternoon as a trough envelops the region ahead of a late southerly change. 

The outlook for Friday is very tricky. Model guidance is extremely varied, even just between consecutive runs of the same model. But, decisions have to be made so here's my thoughts.

I think we’ll see building SE swells from a broad south-east fetch developing on the lower flank of the Tasman Low. This should push up along the Northern NSW coast during the day but will be accompanied by strengthening SE winds, which will obviously create terrible conditions at open beaches. We should see this influence into SE Qld by mid-late afternoon. 

For the most part, Friday’s conditions will be heavily dictated by the local winds, in particular SE Qld surfers really won’t be able to make use of the incoming swell until the trough axis moves north and winds swing southerly, then south-east. It’s hard to have any confidence on the timing of the change either, as the trough’s northward speed is likely to be unpredictable at best. 

Probably a better way to look at Friday is like this: if you’re looking to surf semi-exposed points, aim for the latter part of the day. If you think you can find somewhere handling the preceding northerly flow (ahead of the southerly change), then aim for an open beaches early morning (except on the Mid North Coast, where the change will push through early). 

And how big? Should see easy 6ft+ sets at exposed Northern NSW beaches by close of business (obviously, smaller earlier). If we’re really lucky, the semi-exposed Gold Coast points may see 3ft+ sets in the few hours before dark (with less confidence for the Sunny Coast due to its position further north). But there’s a myriad of factors that could affect this so keep an eye on our surfcams. I'll update in the comments below throughout the day if there are any extenuating circumstances.

This weekend (Dec 13th - 14th)

We’ve got an exciting weekend of waves ahead, and a challenging forecast to produce at my end. 

The Tasman Low is expected to meander around the central Tasman through Saturday, in fact the latest model guidance has a slow south/south-easterly drift with only a minor decrease in strength (and no real fetch retraction either). As such we’re looking at a strong weekend of swell with possibly a slight drop in size between Saturday and Sunday, but also possibly a minor improvement as the period nudges up a little and the wavelength draws out (in fact, this increasing period very well could compensate for the easing swells heights, and end up producing the same sized surf, if not slightly bigger).

But the other key factor for the weekend is the local wind outlook. At this stage Saturday looks like it’ll be mainly under the influence of a gusty S’ly thru’ SE airstream, however as the low pulls southwards into Sunday, winds should swing to more S’ly thru’ SW. We still need a couple of days to firm up the details before getting too excited, but on the balance it’s a very good outlook for the semi-exposed points of Northern NSW and SE Qld.

Wave heights will probably end up being biggest at some point Saturday, probably 6-8ft at exposed Northern NSW beaches, with smaller surf north of the border (say, peaking around 3-4ft across semi-exposed points, and 5-6ft at the open beaches). A slow easing trend is then possible through Sunday. Let’s check back on Friday to see how things have moved around. 

Longer term (Dec 15th onwards)

With somewhat skewy model guidance right now, it’s still too early to pin down specifics. But I am still confident that we’ll see another phase of groundswell from this broader system, originating from an easterly fetch developing very close to New Zealand’s West Coast over the weekend. At this stage there’s a good chance that either Tuesday or Wednesday will see this new energy but I’ll have to give it a few more days to firm up the specifics.

Otherwise, Monday should see plenty of good quality surf as wave heights really start to fall away from the weekend.

Elsewhere, a front is modelled to push through the southern Tasman Sea around Tuesday which also gives rise to a possible south swell Wednesday onwards for Northern NSW. But we’ll check back on Friday to see how likely this is. See you then!

Comments

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 10 Dec 2014 at 6:50pm

Classic example of the uncertainty regarding Friday's winds:

Bom Qld (Sunshine Coast Waters): "North to northwesterly 15 to 25 knots."

Bom QLD (Gold Coast Waters): "North to northwesterly 15 to 25 knots shifting south to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots in the late morning."

Bom NSW (Byron Coast): "Northerly 15 to 25 knots shifting southerly 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon and evening."

Bom NSW (Coffs Coast): "Northerly 15 to 25 knots shifting southerly 15 to 20 knots early in the morning."

Bom NSW (Macquarie Coast): "Southwesterly 15 to 25 knots turning southeasterly 20 to 30 knots early in the morning."

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Wednesday, 10 Dec 2014 at 7:27pm

Gday, Ben.... IMO, looking at "stepladder sets" Friday morning Port mac/Coffs... Yamba/Byron arvo jump in swell.. Sunset jump at tweed....
Yeah winds look terrible south of the split off low....
Split off low will weaken at around 160e30s , probably lunchtime thru mid arvo Friday.... All eyes should then re focus on the major low inland of Brisbane.... May move off SEQ coast early Saturday.... Sits off SEQ sat/sun...... Remnants of Fridays low (now near tip of North Is NZ) to retrograde back into this system late sunday... Possible bomb scenario Monday.....
A very good spring.... And a cracking start to summer by the look of it.....
Expect some injuries... Perhaps the odd tragedy......... Serious energy, stepladder sets, weekend.... Clint Eastwood comes to mind......

udo's picture
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udo Wednesday, 10 Dec 2014 at 7:36pm

Sheepy ,what are stepladder sets ? corduroy lines ?

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Wednesday, 10 Dec 2014 at 8:09pm

Udo...... You paddle out and it's 2foot sets..... You get out the back and it's 4 foot... then it jumps to 5 foot.... ..... By the time you finish your session, it's 6 to 8 foot and off the show.... Gone from 2 foot to 6 to 8 foot in 2 hours - It seems every set is bigger than the last - stepladder..... ;) Not a common occurrence on the east coast..... Often freaky water movements cos the east coast doesn't know what's hit it.... Goodnight all......

donweather's picture
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donweather Wednesday, 10 Dec 2014 at 10:05pm

A very good spring? Are you smoking something SD? Spring was utter shit. Enough said.

Also am I missing something as I'm not seeing anything of substance from the E/SE next Tues/Wed from this Tasman low?

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 10:57am

No, Don... haven't partaken in that sort of shenanigans for years.... But from these two statements of yours, I'd say perhaps up it from 30mg to 60mg.... It aint workin....... ;)
Spring up your way is usually total crap..... I mean total crap.... Now a swell that Mickf surfed over in NZ greeted qld too, last week was more than passable, and I'm sure CraigB pointed out a few more swells that I can't remember.... So as far as spring goes, it get more than a pass..

"Also am I missing something as I'm not seeing anything of substance from the E/SE next Tues/Wed from this Tasman low?"

Seriously....... Up it to 60mg....... ;)
I stand by my call..... Serious water...... Some will score the wave of their life.... Some will wish they'd taken up darts.....

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 12:39pm

SD, according to my calendar, last week was summer....hence I don't think you can count it as the waves we got in Spring. Early Spring was ok. Oct/Nov were sh1t.

I was specifically asking about Tues/Wed next week.....so you're saying that for Tues/Wed there will be serious water, with guys catching the waves of their lives and others drowning........please show me the chart that's creating this swell for next Tues/Wed that you talk of?

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 5:17pm

Firstly, You probably don't remember my rant back in june (& fair enough lol) about my opinion on the seasons.... I'm a "solstice/equinox" sorta guy.... IMO, true winter doesn't start until the week of the winter solstice... Same deal with summer..... But we'll stick to the "traditional seasons if you like...
First week of October - nice 3 to 4 foot - http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-n...

2nd week of October - nice 3 foot waves.... Note fr and my comments.... http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-n...

22nd oct.... Free ride is a hard marker - note comment -http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-n...

Nov7 -http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-n...

Nov10 - http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-n...

Etc...etc...etc....

Now, onto maps..... My call (above) was for low to form sat/sun, with possible bombing Monday.. I still stand by that.... My "dangerous surf/waves of their life/carnage" call was a generic call for most of the east coast (I have also been ranting in east coast Tassie notes)....
I think Sunday/Monday/Tues will be biggest in your locale, Don.... But I wouldn't be surprised if great surf is still happening through till thurs..... So, You query, Tues/Wed..... Tuesday should be under the influence of this ;;

Take note of fetch very close to low at 164e 32s...... Now, tell me why you think there wont be large waves in NNSW/SEQ on Tuesday?

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 5:27pm

I'm not going to argue over the past. It is what it is. Sh1t!!! (Perhaps I'm a little biased as I was blessed with Indo perfection for the last week of Sept and first week of Oct so to come back to sh1t spring in SE Qld was a major downer for me).

Please define large? for Tuesday.

I'm still not seeing "large and dangerous and powerful swells" for Tuesday in SE Qld/Nth NSW which is what you said above.

Yes there will be waves come Tuesday....but large and powerful and dangerous....me thinks not based on current forecasts.

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 5:40pm

And by my calculations SD from your Metview chart above, the swell from the SW quadrant of that low won't arrive in SE Qld until the afternoon of Wednesday.

Craig's picture
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Craig Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 5:44pm

Even later if going on 00z GFS!

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 5:47pm

Yep, but I didn't want to be accused of using a different model/chart. For me it looks like GFS is slowly but surely coming into line with EC. Lets see what the 00z EC run has in store in 15 min.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 6:08pm

So are you saying there will be large waves tues/wed now? I'm sticking to my original prediction.... Look, donny, craig, here's the first low over NZ (where I said it would track)..... And here's the second low directly off Donny's house on Sunday....

So we already have a very active sea state, and a low just 100/200km off the coast...... Monday will be unpredictable surf.. Lots of water... But just follow the timeline from there to the maps I posted above as the two lows form into one.... Your time calculations are right re' those maps.... That's if that's where the low is exactly on the day...... But the bottomline isn't about that... It's about a low forming off Qld/NNSW on sunday, and producing large surf Sunday thru Thursday..... And it's about Donny not seeing anything that will produce large surf on Tues/wed...... Whether the low is slightly closer to the coast, or slightly further away, bottomline is it's on like donkey kong... I did state, donny, that I wouldn't be surpised if its pumping wed/thurs

Now, Donny, tell me why you think it wont be large on Tues/Wed.......

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 6:09pm

Ahh... Just noted you answered.... Cheers.....

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 6:16pm

You didn't define large SD? If we're to use your words of large, powerful and dangerous for Tues/Wed then I would assume you're talking about something approaching 6ft and at least in the 10-12s period class? If I'm way off here, feel free to correct me of what you'd classify as large for Tues/Wed.

But, I get the opinion from reading between the lines above that yoru large call for Tues/Wed is more about the general state of play of a low pressure system off the coast rather than specific charts/models/wave height forecasts etc.

My comments we're specifically with request to Ben's forecast above, which were based on what the charts were forecasting yesterday. I'll point out that the chart you've posted directly above is VERY different to the chart you posted a few posts above and both are for very similar dates/times. Model evolution is occuring and again, perhaps you appear to be gaining access to NOAA's computers to re-jig the models!!! ;)

But FFS I do wish you'd stop using NZDT chart times as it's doing my fecking head in trying to convert these back to real times!!! ;)

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mick-free Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 9:48pm

easy Don...its 3 hours difference for the banana benders in Qld

Craig's picture
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Craig Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 6:16pm

When you say large you're talking 6ft sets and more yes?

Well at this stage no way will Tuesday or Wednesday be 6ft going on latest GFS update, and while ECMWF is slightly better it's probably more in the 4-5ft range from the SE and biggest on the North Coast. That's not large, just a good solid size.

 

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 6:25pm

Well at least Craig and I agree on the definition of large!!

Although I'm not sure I'd agree with your 4-5ft for Tues/Wed based on the 00z run of EC Craig? I'd be thinking 3-4ft tops (and the 4ft is a big stretch) at south facing beaches of the North coast.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 6:42pm

Interesting... That's exactly what the stormsurf models say.... 4 to 5 foot.... ;)

Firstly, Qld can't handle anything over 8 foot..... ohh, maybe one or two spot at my old haunt can, but I aint naming them.....
If it bombs we're looking at 6 foot+...... That's big for Qld..... We're also looking at a decent energy, something most qld weekend warriors aren't used to..... Almost a cyclone swell feel to it, but Monday will have a shorter period catching novice and average surfers by surprise.. Intermediate surfers plus solid surf plus raw energy plus qld crowds = blood on the beach lol ......

Now lets talk about the size expected for the rest of the east coast..... Tassie? Nice.....

Craig's picture
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Craig Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 6:45pm

Stormsurf models, what their surf height forecasts. Those things don't predict anything besides a colour blob hitting the coast by multiplying the swell period but the open ocean swell in some weird manner.

And if there's two swells in the water you get big blue holes.

Very optimistic SD.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 7:20pm

lol.... Yeah well Don is the pessimist... I'm the optimist..... So a smart betting man would go somewhere in between his call and my call..hehehe.....
BTW, Don..... I reckon 1 to 2 foot - small surf...... 3 to 5 foot, medium sized surf.... 6 to 8 foot, big surf..... 8 to 12 foot, fuckn big...... 12 to 18 foot, huge..... 20 foot plus, fuckn huge or massive........ 35 foot plus, ridiculous....

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 8:24pm

Sorry I'm still not seeing what you define as "large"?

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 8:26pm

And yep Tassie will fair much better than SE QLD from this low after this weekend.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 8:35pm

Stormsurf forecast 'face feet', SD.

So 4-5ft is not even quite head high.

udo's picture
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udo Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 7:35am

Don, Caboolture weather - GFS.

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 8:25am

EC is showing more promise this morning that's for sure.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 9:39am

Still looking uncertain for tomorrow's winds, as per BOM updated forecasts:

Bom Qld (Sunshine Coast Waters): "North to northwesterly 15 to 25 knots shifting south to southeasterly in the middle of the day."

Bom QLD (Gold Coast Waters): "North to northwesterly 15 to 25 knots shifting southerly early in the morning then tending southeasterly 20 to 25 knots in the evening."

Bom NSW (Byron Coast): "Northerly 15 to 25 knots shifting southerly 15 to 25 knots during the afternoon and evening."

Bom NSW (Coffs Coast): "Northerly 20 to 25 knots shifting southerly 15 to 25 knots in the morning."

Bom NSW (Macquarie Coast): "Southwesterly 15 to 25 knots turning southeasterly 20 to 30 knots early in the morning."

Compare this to yesterday afternoon's forecasts, archived in the first comment above - NSW hasn't changed the specifics, but Qld has sped up the speed of the S'ly change into SE Qld: in particular it is now expected to reach the Sunny Coast around lunchtime, whereas yesterday's forecast had no S'ly change at all north of the Gold Coast.

And notice the difference between Byron and Sunny Coasts - the S'ly change is expected at the Sunny Coast "in the middle of the day" but on the Byron Coast "during the afternoon and evening". Huh?

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 11:24am

IMO se winds will set in overnight - 20 -25+ knots south of Byron.... Friday, north of Byron will strengthen during the day...... Tweed and further north will have rain squalls which will create semi glass offs.... But the bad side re' tweed and further north is the se wind will be drawn into the major inland low, and could have a touch more east in it..... By the time you get to the Fraser coast, it will be ene.....

donweather's picture
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donweather Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 7:14am

Looks like BOM QLD were on the money.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 7:18am

Well, yesterday they were. Their Wednesday forecast for the Gold Coast was out by 12 hours (of which they didn't have the S'ly change reaching the Sunny Coast at all).

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 12:40pm

Love these complex trough/low scenarios.

Could be coincidence but there's a strong active phase of the MJO in Aus longitudes at the moment, and the first signs of both the monsoon trough dropping down from Indo and early season monsoon activity in the top end. All that moisture and instability seems to be feeding into sub-tropical lats.
Storms brewing to the NW and SW.
Good day to monitor the wind obs around the grounds to try and get a fix on where low pressure development is occurring in real time.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 5:33pm

Spring was OK Don, certainly far better than last years abortion.

There was plenty of shitt but also enough fun days scattered in there to stay sane, and coming off the back of an ultra consistent high quality winter including the best August in living memory there was a full bank account heading into Spring.

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 10:03pm

"and coming off the back of an ultra consistent high quality winter including the best August in living memory". :-/
For the lurking local perhaps...

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 5:42pm

Yeah there was certainly the odd day here or there, but again I was depressed after returning from Indo and work got in the way of me finding those one hit wonder days, so I was left with uninspiring slops more times than not for most of spring!!!

mick-free's picture
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mick-free Thursday, 11 Dec 2014 at 9:51pm

Sheepy hows the forecast looking NZ back next week for xmas..... mmmm that low is creating a massive swell but very bad winds for home

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 7:25am

For some reason ASCAT won't load up on my puter. Anyone seen a pass from this morning?

Craig's picture
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Craig Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 7:41am

Yeah here it is..

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 7:53am

I think Don weather may have won the chocolates on this one....... AccG still looks tasty, but gfs has the inland low moving off the coast too far to the north for serious interaction with the first low.... At this stage , nice work donny.. ;)

donweather's picture
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donweather Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 8:29am

But surely you can tap in NOAA's mainframes and make GFS do the dance doggy !! ;)

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 9:01am

Gee.... "Thanks for the compliment sheepy" would've been suffice.... :p

The GFS dance.... If it's anything like Gangnam style, I aint doing it.. lol..

Yeah gfs has a very broad amalgamation of the two lows..... AccG (below) still looks promising.. So Tues/Wed's, even thurs' odds have blown out, but there's still hope... Not for Tassie though.... Mind you, west coast Tassie on this map looks insane..

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 8:16am

I also not that an old stalwart hasn't been seen for a while..... Mitchvg??? Are you out there?

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 3:20pm

haha, not really 'out there'... waiting to hear from Southey via email actually :\

udo's picture
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udo Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 10:15am

Sheepy, the stepladder effect this morning mid nth coast...2-3 at dawn 1hr later 3-5 now 5-6ft and swell getting stronger........Freeride wax up now and by the time you get off the stones 5fters will greet you.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 10:26am

Cool..... Shouldn't be too far off now around Ballina...... Strap it on lol ......

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 10:29am

Done and dusted . Laughed my arse off when I saw 2/10 for the ballina report this morning

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 6:19pm

So you got a few, FR?
Don.... I haven't waved the white flag yet..... But you are in the lead re' tues/wed ;)
I hope intermediate surfers take care this weekend..... Know your limitations.....

donweather's picture
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donweather Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 8:40pm

It's not a competition SD. It's good to have varying discussions on these systems.

But Donweather 1 - SD 0!!! ;)

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 9:00pm

Mate, last week you didn't even enter the fray on the ene swell...... You gotta a lot of catching up to do..... Gotta wait till tues/wed before the points get allocated.... :)
Hope you get a few good ones in the morning donny..... Rip it up... ;)

donweather's picture
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donweather Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 10:19pm

I did enter it a touch on SN.

http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-n...

And the main reason I didn't get heated in the discussion here was that I was agreeing with you. I also didn't want to talk it up too much on here as I had a vested interest in keeping crowds down last Sunday. But I was having a good discussion with FR about it way earlier last week on another forum.

http://forum.realsurf.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=30022&start=18

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 8:38pm

Yeah stepladder surf at the local. Real waves.

surfer1's picture
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surfer1 Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 8:50pm

Drove through cooly this arvo, Snapper-Greenmount extremely crowded. Can only imagine what it will be like in the morning.

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Haydos Friday, 12 Dec 2014 at 10:06pm

I'm staying across the road from snapper for the weekend, not to sure if that's a good or bad thing yet haha