The Old Local Blues
In surfing there's not too many things that twist your guts like watching your old local spot going off without you. Yeah, life rolls on - c'est la vie - but some things I wish would never change. Like sitting out the back at Cronulla Point during a clean south swell, for instance.
During the last swell in Sydney the point pumped and the proof is now in front of your eyes. If I were a more charitable person I'd be happy that the crew were getting good waves, but bugger that, jealousy is my driving emotion and I'm pissed off I couldn't be out there.
The Old Local Blues
In surfing there's not too many things that twist your guts like watching your old local spot going off without you. Yeah, life rolls on - c'est la vie - but some things I wish would never change. Like sitting out the back at Cronulla Point during a clean south swell, for instance.
During the last swell in Sydney the point pumped and the proof is now in front of your eyes. If I were a more charitable person I'd be happy that the crew were getting good waves, but bugger that, jealousy is my driving emotion and I'm pissed off I couldn't be out there.
