"You've gotta square your shoulders up. You've gotta get your head right....in everything in life." This and plenty more from the fella whose two fave waves are heavy backside affairs - Cloudbreak and Pipeline.
Last Thursday was one of those days at the Cape. After three days of south swell, the direction tracked more east and the wind fell away to the south west - primo conditions for Cape Solander.
Menakoz, Roka Puta, Santa Marina, Vicco lad Skeet Derham spends each northern hemi winter traversing the best big wave spots in the Basque Country.
Sunday August 2 is set down as the date for this year's Wooden Surfboard Day to be held in the park at Currumbin.
"By righting the wrongs you have committed in the name of corporate profit for so many years, you may actually be able to recoup some of the respect that has been lost in the eyes of the public"
An edit of the biggest, best and heaviest waves of the year so far in Tahiti, accompanied only by the raw sounds that are unique to hundreds of tons of ocean heaving over a very sharp and very real reef.
Kelly Slater gives an insight into where his mind is at after a poor start to 2015, along with talk of his first trips to Cloudbreak in the early 90's.
