"A substantial work that easily eclipses anything comparable and instantly achieves classic status. Anyone seeking to understand surfing across the last 50 years will turn here first."
Blindboy reviews the highly anticipated surfing memoir of William Finnegan.
For the first time ever, three concurrent Category 4 hurricanes have developed within Hawaii's forecast region.
"It's been a terrible winter here in Perth," said Mike Maxted forlornly, yet immediately after uttering those word he quickly pepped up. "However I managed a little swim this arvo with some fun results."
"It's been a terrible winter here in Perth," said Mike Maxted forlornly, yet immediately after uttering those word he quickly pepped up. "However I managed a little swim this arvo with some fun results."
William Finnegan is a staff writer at The New Yorker. In 1978 he travelled through Samoa, Tonga, and Fiji, where he and his travel partner, Bryan Di Salvatore, were among the first to surf Tavarua. In this excerpt from 'Barbarian Days', Finnegan's surfing memoir, he and Di Salvatore have just landed in Australia, a nation of "smart-mouthed diggers with no respect for authority." Best of all, Kirra is just beginning to break....Read the full feature 37
A short documentary on the recent history and current state of the funnest left in the world, Macaronis.
The biggest swell since the infamous 'Muzza Swell' of June is currently bearing down on the Indonesian islands. Time to roll some unseen footage from the best session of that swell - Kandui.
