Dan Thomson: Waking to a better shape

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Design Outline

Recently Swellnet ran a Wave of the Day sequence featuring Adam Robertson blowing the top off a Winkipop lip. Although it was a hi-fi move the equipment under Robbo's hooves was what got everyone's attention. Short, blunt and wide, Robbo's board was more wakeboard than surfboard, and a short investigation sourced it to the shaping bay of Dan Thomson.

Dan, from Lennox Head, has been operating on a shaping tip lately, putting out surfboards unlike anything yet seen in surfing. He's taken ideas from the Bob Simmons strain of thought and mixed them in with more modern concepts while adding a dash of his own knowledge. The outcome being something that can legitimately be called original.

Besides Robbo, Stu Kennedy has been riding Dan's creations and even packed a few into his boardbag for the North American and European legs of the World Qualifying Series. They've served him well with a 9th in the Relentless Boardmasters at Newquay, a 17th at the US Open of Surfing, and a 37th at the Mr Price Pro. He's also received a bit of attention from one of the most influential people in surfing.

Swellnet recently spoke to Dan about his boards.

On design deviations There is nothing that has been stumbled upon with my designs. They're a result of about eight years of direct intent to take high performance design to the next level. They utilise a specific design lineage of hydrodynamic planing hulls and parallel rail lines originating from Bob Simmons and similar design traditions like the Lis Fish and Greenough Spoon.

Up front The diamond nose maintains the pointed 'centre of effort' required for predictable directional control while completely eliminating swing weight. Continuing the rail line right to the tip of the nose allows the design to be ridden smaller.

Down back Most of my tail designs are specifically designed for adding control to the wider tail block without inducing too much drag. I have studied a lot of aviation design to gain more understanding of fluid-dynamics. The nose and tail features of Robbo's and Stu's boards are totally functional.

On top level testimonials Former Australian Junior Champ, Stu Kennedy, has been really psyched on this design direction - he gets it! Smaller, faster boards that don't compromise control allow for much more radical manoeuvres and aerial rotations.

On the wakeboard comparison The wakeboard aesthetic isn't something I planned, it just evolved that way. But once I made the connection, I thought, 'Well that makes a lot of sense actually, they're riding water like we are.' Then I started watching some high level wakeboarding. Their aerial repertoire is way more advanced, which is not to say that aerial surfing is lagging, what guys such as John John and Medina are doing is mental, but I cant help but wonder what they could be doing on a wakeboard built for surfing.

Disadvantages? The best thing is there is nothing really compromised with these boards: they've got more drive, they can power hack using the added edge, and they ride like tow boards in bigger waves because they're narrow. They even paddle really well because the volume is basically the same as a traditional shortboard packed into a more economic scale and stable rectangular plane shape. Just about anyone can ride them and experience high levels of personal performance right away. No snake oil bullshit.

On changing surfer's opinions The biggest hurdle is for the surfing community at large to let go of our obsession with pointed noses. Firstly, they are dangerous, surfing is more fun with a blunt nose, and the rider is more comfortable pushing his or her performance level. Secondly, less swing weight equals faster and tighter turns - airs too, for those interested - and reducing the rate of pearling because the board fits better into the curve of the wave.

Greenough understands this and speaks pretty openly about it. Curren has been super stoked judging by the feedback to the boards I've made for him and Kelly has been really cool to recently credit my work ("I think that's the future to be honest," Kelly Slater, timecode 2:30 min).

Check Dan's website and blog for more information. First three photos of Adam Robertson by Elliot Gray. 

Comments

derra83's picture
derra83's picture
derra83 Tuesday, 21 Aug 2012 at 7:06pm

I'm sure I'm not the only one thinking WTF?!

luke-hallam's picture
luke-hallam's picture
luke-hallam Wednesday, 22 Aug 2012 at 11:26am

Probably not deera83, if you ever get to ride one of these boards you might be thinking the same thing, but in a different context if you get my drift?

I've been riding one of Tomo's earlier models for a couple of years, at 36 I didn't think my surfing could progress much if at all. It has on this board and I'm sure top level guys like Stu and Robbo aren't going to waste their time on novelty boards that don't offer something more.

derra83's picture
derra83's picture
derra83 Wednesday, 22 Aug 2012 at 12:09pm

Luke,

I've never seen anything like it...thats not to say Im not curious. I can see how it might work and thats enough reason for me to want to try one.

Itd also piss off the tuna fishermen down here rocking up with a board like that. There's another reason to want to try one!

bum_acid's picture
bum_acid's picture
bum_acid Wednesday, 22 Aug 2012 at 12:41pm

SORRY

Dane Reynolds DIY'd a diamond-tail nose to one of his channel islands boards ages ago.

There's even a video he put on his site.

he said it didn't go all that good.

lol at the 'reduced pearling'

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Wednesday, 22 Aug 2012 at 1:30pm

Robbo's burning cutback way out on the shoulder there reminds me a little of a drop knee cutback on a body board, really low centre of gravity - does the shape of the board make you surf it closer to the deck, with more bend in the knees, when standing?

peter73's picture
peter73's picture
peter73 Wednesday, 22 Aug 2012 at 7:17pm

There was a guy who came up with the wacky idea of putting three fins onto a surfboard a few years ago, certainly turned a few heads at North Narrabeen apparently... I think we're looking at the future of high performance surfing right there. There's just no way we're going to dwell on air reverses and roundhouse cutbacks for the next ten years, bring it on.

dewhurst's picture
dewhurst's picture
dewhurst Wednesday, 22 Aug 2012 at 7:50pm

Fuck you're a kook bum acid. All boards with their nose cut off ride the same do they? Its as stupid as saying every board with a square tail rides the same. Theres plenty more going on with Tomo's boards then just a blunt nose.

Kook.

dewhurst's picture
dewhurst's picture
dewhurst Wednesday, 22 Aug 2012 at 7:51pm

Good call Peter73. Change isn't blowing in the wind its blowing up 3 foot over the lip. Inverted.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 23 Aug 2012 at 7:23am

"Change isn't blowing in the wind its blowing up 3 foot over the lip. Inverted."

Well put! Dylan would be stoked...maybe.

redsands's picture
redsands's picture
redsands Thursday, 23 Aug 2012 at 6:04pm

Everything changes with technology and innovation and the surfing industry is no different.I for one am glad as it can only improve
on our enjoyment of riding waves be it stand up,lay down or whatever.
Without it we'd still be carving up a good tree to go for a surf.

monk's picture
monk's picture
monk Friday, 24 Aug 2012 at 1:00pm

Although Robbo and Stu Kennedy rip, what this board really needs is a Fanning or John-John to grab one and tear apart the european leg of the CT with a few wins. Then they would be sure to catch on, that was the proof for the thruster. Wonder if they come in pin-tail styles for pipe etc (would be quite similar to Kelly's 'deep six' then). Really like the idea of them for safety reasons too, have had a couple of mates with massive eye injuries (and have come scarily close myself a few times), this could see the end of that. Definately will be watching this space...

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 24 Aug 2012 at 3:39pm

Spot on Monk. This board is always gonna polarise people so to win 'em over it needs validation under a professionals feet. Kind've a shame it has to be that way but it's reality.

Makes me wonder how many designs actually worked but got passed over because they didn't get pro validation.

water-rat's picture
water-rat's picture
water-rat Friday, 24 Aug 2012 at 6:42pm

Not everyone's cup of tea i'm sure, but i cant wait to give one a crack!
I think this shape is the future, if not, at least make people rethink the modern short board.

Never the less, I'll still be out on a craft made and surfed before i was spewed into this world every other day.

victor's picture
victor's picture
victor Friday, 24 Aug 2012 at 6:56pm

can we have a explanation on the stubby diamond nose ? why...its purpose....?

nope's picture
nope's picture
nope Saturday, 25 Aug 2012 at 5:29am

t'as been a long time coming! notice slater says the key is 'making it look long on the wave' as in surfing traditionally.

its time for the surfing community to let go of sheep mode and follow your own style, capabilities, wave preference, etc... its hard to word that right.

fanning at bells this year was the best surfing ive ever seen. and i love pretending to copy him. buuuut...

my next board will be either a flat finless tomo-like creation or a more rockerd rip off of/ attempt at his design.

waddaya recon tomo? do you mind hacks copycatting?

rat-race's picture
rat-race's picture
rat-race Monday, 27 Aug 2012 at 2:46pm

Can I get one "Hydroflexed"?

the-roller's picture
the-roller's picture
the-roller Friday, 31 Aug 2012 at 6:26am
freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 31 Aug 2012 at 7:01am

Looks like a Ryan Burch/Carl Ekstrom collab.