As a surfer growing up in the 80s I often heard stories about the Gold Coast's famous 23 day swell of 1975. What sounded like a Baby Boomer's fantasy tale is getting a hit of credibility from the bizarre behaviour of Cyclone Winston.
It all looks so serene: blue water, blue sky, big barrels. But the aesthetic beauty captured by surf photographers belies the ever-present dangers. Last Friday, an enjoyable shoot in WA's south-west quickly turned into a nightmare for photographer Peter Jovic.
"I’m going to take some time off and have a bit of a personal year,” Says Fanning who'll surf select events in 2016.
One has a bung knee the other a seperated sternum, yet if the Eddie runs this week then the two old stagers will put pain and discomfort behind them.
From avant-garde asymmetrical to classical log, Ryan Burch has got all points of the surfboard spectrum covered.
"I'm not crazy. I didn't just fly out of the womb and surf 70-foot waves; it was a process."
Mark Healey explains how he became comfortable in waves tipping ten times overhead.
Yesterday the North Shore was hit by one of the largest swells in history and Riley Edwards made his way down to Waimea Bay.
The oldest known form of surfing - dating back at least 5,000 years - will be on display at Bondi tomorrow.
The organisers of the Eddie Aikau Invitational have placed the contest on yellow alert for this Thursday while they assess an inbound XXL swell and local conditions.
The young Basque surfers drops the big wave facade and threads a bunch of deep Atlantic barrels.
On the day of his passing, a video retrospective of one of the great modern surfers.
"Never drive away from good waves"
Mick and Parko break the golden rule of surfing and still score.
