Who likes surfing alone?
I love surfing alone as long as i can see houses, fisherman or dog-walkers then i feel safe. Then again if i am alone on town beaches the surf is probably pretty shit. But at least i can amuse myself by singing out loud and talking shit to myself.
When i am out alone with no sign of human habitation or civilisation i get uneasy and find myself paddling in earlier than i planned. It's always a relief when its good and 1 other guy paddles out to join you. However, the sheep mentality sometimes means that 2 can quickly become 10.
I frequently surf alone, only because I have a crazy schedule between work and family that allows brief windows of opportunity to get wet. So, it's hard to tee up a surf with my mates.
'Tis amazing how many solo sessions I have on the Northern Beaches too. For such a crowded stretch of coast, if you know when to look there are occasionally little gaps where you can surf with hardly anyone around. Ain't nowhere near the Manly end though.
I used to surf by myself from time to time on some of the more isolated parts of the mid-north coast. It never really bothered me. The additional risk really seems minimal and unlike furlong I found it a buzz to see nothing but sea, sky dunes and bush. I don't get up that way these days so I haven't had the experience for a while and I am sure some of those spots attract more surfers these days.
Small waves: Really enjoy surfing by myself. I have no problem with it at all.
Big waves: I like to have a few crew for company. Don't mind being first out in the morning but find my nerves settle a bit when there's one or two others in the line up.
Occasionally the mood will hit me when I have to surf alone.
I don't like it, had a lot of good sessions ruined by being solo and being super paranoid that something is going to go wrong.
That being said you feel awesome when you get out.
Urban netted beachies and Indo are an exception though, always feel safe in indo knowing that most of the big biteys have found their way into a Chinese soup bowl.
Gidday. Can't say I actually LIKE surfing alone, but for some reason I just can't fathom, that's what I always seem to end up doing.
Did I mention the time that I went on my first trip to Yorkes, when one of my older school mates (he always said he wasn't me mate but I knew he was jus joshin - eh, DWAYNE) was old enough to drive, and he convinced his dad to lend him his immaculate FB holden wagon. They were Italian, and the car was his pride and joy, and represented his years of struggle and hard work. Dad was a classic super strict, super conservative, really old fashioned guy, but doted on his son Joe, an up and coming Southern Plain's wanna be. So Joe got sucked in to taking some of the Southern Plains 'heavies' as well. None of us knew anything about cars, and with the Southern Plains 'heavies' constantly screaming at him to go faster, it boiled over just past Port Wakefield. Still we motored on, until a cockie rescued us half way down the peninsula, pointing out that the radiator was almost empty, and we were going way to fast. The motor was pretty much fucked, but we managed to surf all weekend, and grovel home. Under the 'heavies' onslaught and with the ever tempting promises of becoming a 'Plainsman', Joe had backed into a fence post, scraped the shit out of the side panels in the scrub, and the car was full of limestone dust and fucked. Needless to say, Joes old man was devastated, and went bunter and his surfing career was put on hold for a while. It was made worse as the Southern Plains 'heavies' were Greek.
Now, where was I. Oh yeah - surfing alone.
Did I mention the time that night with Marty and Terry Ryan, too pissed, stalling on busy North Terrace in a Kombi trying to get out of Adelaide to Port Wakefield Road, and when we got out of the car to try and push start it, all the apple cider bottles were rolling out and smashing all over the road. The police pulled up behind us pissing themselves, and told us to get the heap of shit over to the side of the road and clean up our mess, before driving off ridiculing and laughing at us. Ridiculous wake ups at the surf, not even remembering how, or when you got there.
Sorry, got off the track again. Speaking of tracks, did I mention I love model trains? No? Hilarious.
Now. Back to this mystery of why I always seem to end up surfing alone. I met some guys one year when they came over to SA for the Aussie Titles. I was paddling out at usual crappy Middleton and heard all this screaming and yelling. Mark Warren was telling some local guys to fuck off out of the water, complaining that he was trying to practise for the comp. He looked over at me some distance away and squawked at me that I could fuck off too. So I did. I left the area I was in, and hassled the living fuck out of him till he went in. Poor Peter Victorsen. When the jockey like pipsqueak left, he was squawking all sorts of 'we' will this and that threats. That night in the Hotel Victor, (again, there is a God), lo and behold, there they are, a pack of the squirts, warren, townsend and some other runt, all thinking that a slightly bigger, flabby guy, almost average sized, the mighty 'kanga' was gonna save them. They were all trying to chat up a couple of local girls, one in particular holding their attention. It was a dream scenario. So I asked the girls, her in particular, if they were actually serious about having anything to do with these sawn off geeks, all dolled up in their flairs and surf outfits of bangles and beads and baubles. The girls were pissing themselves, and marky's pack blew it and took the bait, and to save face, tried a few sneers and squawks and puff ups. I reminded him about the arvo's fiasco, and if there was anything he wanted to sort out. You might think I'm a jerk relating this, but who cares, and I remind you, warren is the geek mouthing off telling people, strangers, locals, to fuck off. After making him grovel and apologise, townsy freaked and ran off in a jangle of beads and bangles and baubles, and flapping flairs, the other pip squeak bolted too, 'kango' shut the fuck up and bolted to his hot monaro, and the girls pissed themselves even more.
But it got even better and some time later, I was training at Adelaide Sports Science Clinic at Hindmarsh, and (again there is a God) to my amasement in strutted the jockey squad, this time led by 'bugs', decked out in the most ludicrous apparrell ever created by modern man... into a full gym of athletes, footy players, including women, etc. I won't go into the details, but it was hilarious, and they quickly fled, flairs and lips flapping in the wind shortly after.
But anyways, as I say, back to the point - friends. I know have some, just can't quite put a name to any just at this minute. Hey, did I tell youse that I met Duke Kahanamoku when I was a kid? Our mate organised a Surfing not Drowning night, or it might have been a night where i wet me bed. Something like that. We all met in the Old Bailey. Or the Local Court. Or outside Central Station. Somewhere. Another mate (dwayne... if you thought wayne lynch was radical and wild, you should meet his brother, dwayne) and I just small enough to drive sitting on his lap (boy, that's another thing - i was sure it was a column shift but dwayne said, no, thats the gearstick your feeling), had to go to the train station and get him. Or the pier. Or the taxi stand. Somewhere. Duke wanted to go get some kava, and we did, while the guy organising the thing was freaking where we were. When we finally got there, he lured us into the bar again, and we stumbled out and got my mate. I can't remember much, except all of us except Duke liked dressing up in womens clothes, which was really funny and we were pissing ourselves. and I'm pretty sure I followed through on a couple of pisses. lucky i had me brown cords on, eh. Eventually he gave out all the awards, and i got best foxtrot, best pride of erin, and most promising pole dancer. but I remember us cracking up laughing because he was talking about all this other stuff, like how much fun we would have if we joined the scouts, and all the guys were spewing and pissing themselves and i followed through on a couple more. We ended up getting more pissed, this time with the dance hall janitor as well, and went back to kick on at his place. That was hilarious, as we had forgotten our pants, as well as Duke, who was still waiting at the Old Bailey. Or the High Court. Or outside the Rocks Station. Somewhere. Another mate went ballastic at us, but we all kissed and made up. I just remember rolling around on the janitors bed, pissing ourselves, somehow having a body rub the next day with the parson, and dropping him because he didnt shave before kissing me. I really remember what a beautiful person he was, so much fluid, everything connected, read the bedtime stories so well, super impressive. And how funny it was all day reliving how we'd forgetten our mate Duke getting unbelievably roasted in front the Old Republic. Or the Childrens Court. Or outside Penrith Station. Somewhere. Still it wasn't anywhere near as bad as that time dwayne took me to les girls to do the business. That defies belief. But the pictures are great.
With this sort of experience, I just don't understand why I always end up alone in the lineup. Amasing. Hilarious. Deluxe
'So much fluid'- ha ha!
Anyway......
I love surfing alone which is quite often for me. Not if it's big, but if it's small and clean I'm out there.
And when I am, I'm a one man Karaoke machine.
The times I've disliked it and paddled in early/not gone out are pretty rare. Probably mostly at South Strad; it can actually seem pretty isolated at times when there's a close range ECL, hectic banks and rips, murky water, overcast weather, trawlers heading in... it's the best and the worst at the same time!
I guess it goes without saying, I don't like surfing solo when I see a shark or bait balls either.
Mitch, if you're close enough to see the shark's balls, you're too close. Paddle straight in. Do not pass GO.
All the time, but all of sudden some cunt jumps in the car with me and starts singing.
He has never told me his name but to top things off, I get to the ocean and lo and behold theres heaps of surfer dudes already surfing..
Doh...
Guttered.....?
Surfed lots of times on my own, but one recent one got the better of me.
Was back in SA over Chrissie and a chunky southerly windswell was running getting into a spot that needs that extra south in the swell.
This spot is a popular tourist walk/view in a Conservation Park, especially in summer.
With it being the weekend before Chrissie I went the early thinking at least someone would be down there and onto it like me.
After driving south through 30kt crosshore gully winds, under grey skies and persistent drizzle I got to the "4wd only track".
I was in my brothers front wheel 2wd corolla and knowing the track and that the car could make it back up the hill I proceeded down.
There's a vantage spot of the small bay halfway down the hill, and too my relief and amazement there were two guys out picking off the wedgey rights.
Great! So I headed down and parked the car and quickly suited up. By the time I had suited up and head down the track to the cove one guy was already in, with the other trying to get a final wave.
Bugger. I still paddled out trying to ignore the close proximity to one of the main highways for GW's, dark overcast drizzly skies and now the sight of the other surfers car driving up the hill into the distance.
I only lasted half an hour, with the thought of being accidentally knocked out (rare as it may be) or something worse through me off, and I paddled in.
The increasing rain also had me worried with the 4wd track out becoming increasingly muddy and less likely for my 2wd to make it out.
I was that worried I actually left my wetty on and gunned it for the exit, just making it up the hill. If I got stuck it would of been hours for anyone else to rock up in that weather, if not the next day!
So this one got me, but I've had many solo surfs in Sydney, South Coast, Adelaide, Yorkes and even West (but that is a little unnerving).
After a good solo surf you do really feel alive though, especially after scoring good waves and exiting less than inviting waters/environments.
Surfed on my own heaps and had some real good surfs alone, but normally doesn't last long especially around here, sometimes i hit a bank early knowing with a bit of tide it will turn on paddle out alone and an hour latter i have the company of fifteen others.
I think the perfect number of guys in the water at most places is two or three, sometimes its good to have other guys out to help mark the takeoff area.
Good to see you got some of those years, and years, and years and years and years and years and years and years and years... did I say years, of pent up terror and frustration out of your system gimp. All that being alone in the dark, the frustrated, helplessness rage.
The offer is always open, come into the gym, a nano second, all the misery will be gone. Oh no, sorry, now its worse you've shit your pants again, all alone.
Love it. Got a couple of places I surf by myself. Destination waves. Usually more scared in the lead up to a trip than once I'm out there. Something about looking out at the ocean with great surf. Makes me feel safe for some reason.
Had a few spooky moments but nothing too terrifying. Ignorance is bliss I reckon!
I generally like surfing alone. Often down here during the week you can get waves by yourself if you wish.. Sometimes you get the "vibe" that your not the only thing in the water and the heart rate goes up a bit but I more often than not love it.. Once at cactus I walked over the dunes first light and there was no one out so I walked back to our camp and told my two mates I was gunna head out and they sai they would join me. Anyway I suit up and about to run off an my mates say there gunna have breaky first. Fuck! So I paddle out by myself the sun hasn't really come up its dark and the waters black. Bout 4 ft sets inconsistent and I'm laying on my board in between sets and I can feel my heart beating through my board! No doubt attracting the attention of every bitey in the area..! After about halfa my mates came out and all was sweet!
Once at Seaspray just out of Sale,oops sold that one,
Pumping it was.
I went out, Scared as fuck, Finally went in and waited for me Surfer Dudes to rock up.
Stoked as then, it was pumping, soooo many peaks, left and rights mainly rights though.
SWS swell 0.3m at 4 secs, I had looked at the Kingfisher B wave raddddar, I knew it was gonna be on.
My Surfer dude mates were stoked.
Lone surfing is a regular thing for me, whether big or small. Working the rosters I do, I get plenty of weekday waves when all the 9 to 5'ers are doing their thing.
The only time I balked at a lone surf was the day after JC got hit by that shark in Streaky, I waited until another bloke paddled out first, then I was OK with it. This was a wave at the base of the point I lived on, so it was a break I had surfed countless times by myself. The wave is only 200m from a major estuary opening, so Bull sharks were regulars around the lineup.
OOOppppps
I will stand in the corner for 3 weeks.......
Sorry :(
Surfing spots that Im not so familiar with alone always seems to bring a bit more paranoia with it for me and I dont enjoy surfing alone if its heaving or a bit sketchy, I always spin out on Jeff Clarks story at mavericks - he's just a different kinda beast!!
Love surfing my local alone on a chilled day it would have to be one of the most meditative experiences for me.
wellymon wrote:Once at Seaspray just out of Sale,oops sold that one,
Pumping it was.
I went out, Scared as fuck, Finally went in and waited for me Surfer Dudes to rock up.
Stoked as then, it was pumping, soooo many peaks, left and rights mainly rights though.
SWS swell 0.3m at 4 secs, I had looked at the Kingfisher B wave raddddar, I knew it was gonna be on.
My Surfer dude mates were stoked.
0.3m swell at 4 seconds hahahaha
uplift wrote:?..the frustrated, helplessness rage. ... now its worse you've shit your pants again, all alone.
A true Wordsmith, right there.
Love it, but these days it's a rare thing to do.
Ever notice how much louder little chops on the surface sound when you're sitting there by yourself?
I avoid crowds at all costs, and sometimes I'm a good 500m from the next bloke (I live on the Goldy, and that's about as far as you can get...) . If the surf isn't that good, it does cross my mind that it would be tragic if i was taken while out in this shit. Somehow the quality of the surf dictates my thoughts about the risks.
ha ha, I mean't 3hrs not 3 weeks,
Apologies.
:)
I prefer it but on many occasions I haven't really liked it.
An overcast day over dark reef and suddenly there it is a fin coming straight at me not 5 metres away then another one and two more. Thank god its dolphins; they swim straight underneath me and I look and I couldn't see them against the dark reef. And I thought I was being alert!
Same place, pre first light paddle out, catch a couple of waves and notice a couple of guys paddling out and then they stop and wait for maybe 15 minutes way inside while I catch a few more. They eventually paddle out and ask me was it a dolphin in the wave behind me for all those waves or some seals. Say what? I didn't see a thing.
Things like that play on your mind the next time you paddle out but surfing by yourself is really the best zen like experience: you are more alert, you are more there in the present, but it can be spooky.
Yeah fins in the water, you go from pure fear to instant elation when you see the rubbery skin and curved dorsal. Full gamut of emotions in two seconds.
morris wrote:Vodka with a dash of lime is it? ;-)
Aye....
Morris saying that I need a plan "B"
RBT apparently say walk home......? Listed on the home page.
I have to walk past x2 crosses on the side of my road... Where two young fellas were hit and killed from walking home drunk in the middle of the road..?
They could not afford the taxi all the way home which was another 5 min drive, so the taxi driver dropped them off in the middle of bum fuck.?
Great add, great plan 'B'
:(
I love surfing alone, but I only when the surf starts to get good and I order all of my "Surfer Dude" mates out of the water ; )
Sure
Sure was,
I got disheartened by plan 'B'
Lets think that thru ......
I wish Steve Arklay would give it a rest ..... Lets not talk up Vic too much ...
I mean all these shots he's getting published of " Seaspray , Woodside , Golden & that Gem McLoughlins beach is starting to get my Goat ..... Morris u must be ropable .... How about your Local ( Manns Beach )??
I mean hows a man supposed to get a wave to himself , its not like there's 90 miles of Endless Beach or something
Jeez, a lot of love here. Actually I do enjoy the company these days. I've surfed enough Han Solo. I'm happy to chat, make a friend, share a laugh.
...and, having someone around to take you to hospital helps too (thanks Winks).
Wheelybling's back with my big gold necklace on, nearly strangling me.
Went back to plan 'A' all the wheels binged off though.
Burrowed me uncle's helicopter this morning and found a lovely little peak east of L.E.
A little smaller than the other day 0.2m SSE tho, 3sec period, didn't have to wait long.
No surfer dudes either, although there were 10 quads with poles strapped on, speeding up the beach when I flew off.
I scored it.
I do, I'm very comfortable with it and find it relaxing. It can get scary at times and maybe a bit dangerous, but I think I have only passed up surf a handful of times cause there was no one around and it was a bit sketchy. then again now that I reside in Lakes Entrance I don't have to worry about that anymore.