Submitted by Tony Jack Clancy on Tue, 02/09/2021 - 13:44
Boardriding was from time to time almost a ballet. Much as I disliked him I was astounded by Nat Young's grace particularly one afternoon at Long Reef. We' moved from shorter boards lke 8'4"-8'6" with tradional moves done so well and beautiflly to awkward, ugly short-board wave riding. It was stilted and really pretty awful for many years. In the last decade or so I think control of self and inventiveness have become widespread and at top levels...though still some awkwardness ...all way better than my ability but surfing as it is, is 'peaking'.
I think there is a next level...Chorography. Planning the attack on the wave tobe more than 'milking' it. Visually the wave can be letting it set the rider up for choreographed riding using memorised classical music...not modern cacphony...notstamping boards down waves but creating a beauty in time with nature.
Of course most suited to the long waves...Lennox and so on but one can surf 'phrases'.
If you think I am a moron or a 'total moron' ...no need to tell me. I raised the matter with one well known surfer I thought 'sensitive' and was ignored, not even a comment or a discussion.Pretty embarassing and frustrating of course as I had respected him..however I think my suggestion for the next level in boardriding could generate great visual beaty through a new level in harmony.
I'm going to post here one superb musical experience...as well as visually beautiful (not dragging-out sexually explicit comments I really hope) Watch and imagine you have taken off on a wave, imagine yourself riding to the music, turns even, parallel stances, nuances, nose-rifding to it, intensifying and trailing with the intonation...working to the flicks of the singers head (in this case) locked in your mind,,.and the motions of the violinist....From the outset you are choreograhing your ride, not to milk and batter the wave or be a wave bound gymnast but to create a series of motions and independant sensory in turning the wave into your orchestra...Try it and see...maybe someone will genuinely be able to visualise them selves performing to the beauty.
My opinion is boards around 8ft-8ft 3 will allow the grace and more parallel stances and long cranking turns the music may inspire...Try this one on internet:
Does anyone 'out there' genuinely and without mockery see what I am getting at in 'the next level' of surfing development...?