Cheers mate. 'Twas a long talk that had to get whittled down but the editing team kept it all in context.
Some nice insights and ideas from all concerned. You did us proud!
I'll have to add Bluebird to the reading list.
By the way, any idea where we can find the Kev the Head doco by Johan?
Yeah, it's here: https://sverigesradio.se/avsnitt/307162
However, it's in Swedish...well, Swedish mixed with English delivered in a broad Aussie accent for the interviews, such as with Damien Lovelock who sounds impossibly Aussie.
Pity about my Swedish...
Will check it out for the interviews though.
Hey Stu long been a big fan of your writing and insightful view of the world you set a very high bar, great to hear you can speak at the same level, cheers.
I heard that on the radio and did not twig it was Stu. Good to have his perspective.
The number one thing that gets missed in mainstream media and even in Home and Away type depictions of surfers is that surfing has peak intensity experiences and swell cycles that influence life and mood.
Surfing comes across as having all the excitement of drinking a cup of coffee.
The Bluebird book seems the same - no hint that magic days happen that can be peak life moments remembered forever.