Submitted by davywayback on Sun, 12/06/2015 - 17:57
..Such a subjective area. We all have different images of surfing which are meaningful to us. ...Might be good to see what's about the most memorable moment pictured you might have ( there's plenty of those thats for sure ) filed back there in your memory and hopefully as hard copy. Here's my 2 : In 1968 I missed out on representing W.A. in the National Titles in Sydney. The few years prior was an interesting time in surfing. As far as I can recall I was still kind of hanging on to the dusk of the original long board era but something in my bones was telling me that there was something " afoot ".
I'll never forget watching the footage that was brought back to my then club in W.A. of the Long Reef heats.
It's a long time ago, but from memory , David " Baddy " Treloare , - my hero, and Wayne Lynch were timing it, running into the water grabbing the rails , and doing flip 360 re entries ( that's the best as I can describe it ) in the shore break while waiting for their heat. Remember - this is 1968. I could not believe what I was seeing. The following week I was in at Cordingley's surf shop ordering a board just like theirs. ..The rest is history - literally.
Baddy Treloare dragging his arse in one of his signature drop knee backhand turns. For me, this is the essence of cool.