Duckdiving / Holding on to my board

Julianasunners's picture
Julianasunners started the topic in Sunday, 22 Feb 2015 at 7:21pm

Hi everyone, I just cannot duck dive my McCoy Nugget Potbelly 6'4" (I'm 5'5" or 167cm tall and I weigh 55kg)! I've tried, but it doesn't work if a big wave comes, I'm in the impact zone, I've also tried turtling it and I have even hurt my elbow trying it once, so I have to look back, throw it and hope it doesn't hit anyone. I just can't hold to my board, it can get really frustrating!!!!!!! :((
What should I do??? Maybe get a smaller board?? I learned on a soft 6ft which I couldn't hold onto either, and I've moved to the Nugget. I love to surf, but I don't want to be a hazard out in the ocean. What should I do??! Thank you in advance!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 23 Feb 2015 at 6:48am

The board's length may be appropriate for your skill level but a shorter board will be easier to duck dive (but, could be harder to ride). A softboard will be even harder.

In my experience, a good duckdive depends on having enough forward speed as the wave approaches - this is essential to maintain a smooth line under the wave and through to the back. So, as the wave approaches give five or six really strong paddles towards the wave, then use your knee (or even foot) to stand on the tail to force it underwater at the same time your arms 'spear' the nose under the lip (using the first half of the standup motion). Project through the wave and to the back. 

And, no matter how many times it doesn't work, never bail your board - you'll get worked plenty of times but eventually it'll all click into place. It's probably one of the most important aspects of surfing (especially if you live near a crowded beach) and once you master this you'll be spending a much greater percentage of your time surfing rather than getting smashed!

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Monday, 23 Feb 2015 at 8:14am

Agree with ben & put a bit of wax along the rails where your hands grab on for holding on really hard . If you are going to bail your board make sure theres nobody behind you by paddling away or tell them in advance .

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 23 Feb 2015 at 8:26am

@55kgs a McCoy nuggett potbelly has probably a 1/3 or more foam than you need......down size to a thinner board before you end up with elbow or wrist joint damage.

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Monday, 23 Feb 2015 at 8:35am

Sounds like a beginner ( 2nd board )right ? They learn quicker on bigger board than small board udo . That would be solving the problem but creating a worse one . The cant catch a wave syndrome

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Monday, 23 Feb 2015 at 8:36am

Is this perhaps a good example of the wrong board sold by a shop? (i.e. per Grant Miller article)

Julian, perhaps before embarking on being 'out the back' with others (i.e. your board possibly hitting others), try paddling out from the shore, through the whitewater and foam to get the technique sorted. Whitewater waves rolling closer to shore will have less force than those further 'out the back' ... get the technique sorted; nose down and under the wave, use knees (or foot as ben mentions) to leverage the nose back up by placing weight onto the tail as the wave passes over you ...

Where are you based? There's probably a few regulars on here who live near you that could watch your technique and give you a few pointers ...

raku's picture
raku's picture
raku Monday, 23 Feb 2015 at 8:59am

Have a look at this clip it may help. He does a great instructional clip on paddling as well.

https://m.

Julianasunners's picture
Julianasunners's picture
Julianasunners Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 6:51am

Thanks, guys! That's very helpful!!
The problem is purely with duck diving. I can catch waves, I can ride them, turn. I can even hold on to the board when I'm right under the lip and the wave is just starting to break. The trouble is when the big sets come and I'm too far in and that massive layer of white wash comes. I've tried again yesterday closer to the shore considering all the hints you guys have given me and it does not sink! So I gave up and paddled to the back to catch waves. At least the surf was around 2-3ft so I didn't lose the board much. I'm thinking of borrowing a short board just to practice duck diving and maybe trading-in my board. Just don't know which one to get. Thanks again and enjoy the rest or your week :)

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 7:52am

Keep practising and just to inspire you a 9ft board can be duckdived . For reaching the next level you exhale all your breath & turn your board on its side and push one rail down before the other all at the same time as you duckdive . Dont forget to use feet like a duck would . quack !

mikehunt207's picture
mikehunt207's picture
mikehunt207 Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 11:07am

Other than technique it could also be the mcoy to a degree, are they very back end wide and thick?reverse teardrop, would make learning to duckdive harder than a regular shape as back end is more buoyant than nose leading it to back shoot, same goes a bit for single fins but reverse occurs, very bouyant in front so tendency to buck around when duckdiving, thats why regular modern surfboard shapes seem lots easier as wide point is fairly central and therefore more balanced. Most anything can be duckdived with practice and good duckdives project you out of the water with little to no loss of speed to make it under the next wave(or even be in position to catch it) rather than bailing out and spending the rest of set getting washed back in.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 3:12pm

Great tips from some of the best, there for you Julianasunners :)