CLASSIC SURFERS QUOTES
Ted Spencer -
' when I surf I dance for krishna'
" Occy's wave " - Occy
Mark Foo - its not tragic to die doing something you love.
Kev,J/Bay - I'm not saying hello to anymore Aussies in the water, harder to burn them once you say hello.
"It's just bodysurfing. It's just swimming. It's not rocket science. It's a beautiful, elegant diversion."
Mark Cunningham
"He's gettin' done by the big ones"- Larry Blair, mid-heat interview with Nat Young in the water, 1978 Coke Surfabout final, Queenscliff.
Eddie Rothman - you come to the north shore and talk shit about people .....your gonna get fucking slapped.
"The inability to describe something, to me, is proof that it is fucking amazing!"-Dave Rastovich.
Proving that he's a great surfer but maybe not particularly bright.
Tommy Peterson - Kirra boardriders 50th anniversary speech recollection of the clubs early days .........then a bloke called Michael Peterson came along....pain in the arse he was...... 'did nothing and won everything'
"“Surfers are the ‘throw-aheads’ of mankind, not the dregs; they aren’t the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists and they are leading the way to where man ultimately wants to be. The act of the ride is the epitome of ‘be here now’, and the tube ride is the most acute form of that. Which is: your future is right ahead of you, the past is exploding behind you, your wake is disappearing, your footprints are washed from the sand. It’s a non-productive, non-depletive act that’s done purely for the value of the dance itself. And that is the destiny of man.”
-Timothy Leary, who, it's worth noting, wasn't a surfer.
Seems he has a pretty good grasp on it though Stu.
Maybe he should have a word to Rasta.
zenagain wrote:Maybe he should have a word to Rasta.
Typed with a wry grin I'm sure.
"Dude you got the best barrels ever dude. Just like you pull in, and you just get spit right out of 'em
waPAAAH. You just drop in, just smack the lip. Then after that, you just drop in. Just drop it down
Say PUAAAHHH. Ride the Barrel and get pitted, so pitted" - Surfer Dude being interviewed by FOX 11 KTTV Los Angeles.
Simon Anderson on certain pro surfer's "image" re' sponshorship in the early 80s - "No image.... That's my image"....
TC ,
" sorry i didn't see you " ....
or " the sun was in my eyes " ....
or " did you make that drop , wow " ....
Owl Chapman - "Tell Rabbit that Kirra sucks".....
chappy Jennings graffiti on the wall of seahorse surfboards factory [shaper peter duffy] after picking up his new gun
"peter duffys pintails are the best and only the best can ride them" j j
" That wave sucks like a screwdriver ." - Occy
Sheepy, was Owls comment reference to which is the better hollower wave kirra or maaalea , always a little argument going on about that.
Dunno, udo... I just remember seeing the quote in an old tracks...... Could be the kirra/maaalea thing.... Could be re' "bustin down the door" ( don't know where owl stood on that), could be Owl came over and endured a qld flat spell, as in kirra fuckn sux.... or maybe a typical quirky owl comment, as in Kirra really does suck, as in nearly sucks dry and barrels off it's nut....
Shaun Tomson, Off The Wall 1976
"Well you know (insert any name), it really was my wave."
"Do we go to France after Europe?"
- Jeremy Byles.
Ringing Bylesy @Shirley st headquarters right now and will ask him.......fucking classic.
Who could beat this... the cat like reflexes, brilliant, fast, disarming, direct and to the point:
"I don't care if you're D.C. Purple, cunt,"
All we got is our waves and mull.
I could here D.C.greens arsehole quivering that night..........and I was in G land.
Think I can beat it Uplift!
DC paddled out at Blacks and saw a local get a great barrel. "That was a great barrell!" said DC. "No it wasn't," shot back the local.
Firstly..... Who the fuck is dc green?.....
jeff scmucker - aye nak its cool I spoke to moose he said its awright to tow caves whenever we want
thermalben wrote:"Dude you got the best barrels ever dude. Just like you pull in, and you just get spit right out of 'em
waPAAAH. You just drop in, just smack the lip. Then after that, you just drop in. Just drop it down
Say PUAAAHHH. Ride the Barrel and get pitted, so pitted" - Surfer Dude being interviewed by FOX 11 KTTV Los Angeles.
Ben - check the auto-tune song version. Not a bad tune!
I want that guy to do the commentary for the world tour.
what happened to Schmucker?
he just dropped off the face of the earth.
Jeff is still around and doing what he does out there in the desert, catching plenty of waves and getting out on his boat. However he doesn't contribute to Swellnet anymore 'cos we had a little falling out over something or other.
Think he posts a few vids/pics on CW or Surfline
Pull up with a ski and tow caves.....good luck
Jeffs photography was brilliant ,water and land.
Yeah the day after he stopped posting here a photo of his appeared on CW. Pretty funny turn of events, at least from this end. Interesting thing is that a few weeks after that I had a long conversation with Jeff and it was straight up an amazing talk. He waxed lyrical on what the Streaky Bay coastline meant to him, revealed big picture thinking about how surfers over there should interact, and also told me about a stand of trees he planted as reparation for all the trees his forefathers cut down.
The whole conversation would fit comfortably in the classic quotes that this thread is about, and I mean that sincerely.
Sheepy ,type ' biff in s a desert' into the search function for DC green info .
Sheepdog wrote:Firstly..... Who the fuck is dc green?.....
Irreverent surf journo from the 80s and 90s. Got his start penning Lash Clone stories for Tracks mid-80s when he was still a teenager. Later wrote longer pieces for Tracks including "Indonesian Stumblings", an early article on the coasts far from Bali. In the 90s worked for ASL doing, among other things, "Operation Tubequest" where he piled a Falcon with surfers and hit different parts of the coast. The Eyre Peninsula section is where the quote Uplift mentioned came from. It ended up being one of the coast's more infamous chapters and ensured the hordes would stay away for a few more years.
DC also wrote a few features for the defunct Deep Magazine and is now a children's author.
Short version Sheepy - Australia's Surfing Life ( surfers best mate...cough cough ) tried to expose the coast , got sent packing. ASL painted the locals as paranoid fuckwits for believing that magazine exposure would increase crowds . DC Green was a gonzo journalist responsible for penning the article.
I used to enjoy Green' s articles immensely. I got thrown out of class a couple of times for pissing myself laughing at Lash Clone and his efforts to defraud the commonwealth's welfare system with his sidekick Dorkdog.
Stu and Blowin... Yeah ok. Lash clone..... The munsters to vibseys adams family.. ps - Was that the article where some brave locals loosened the wheel nuts on Rabbits and Luke Egan's car?
Kingsley Looker (on Sunset Beach): “When a west set comes, paddle north.”
Robert Kelly Slater (I think): "Well Stu I'll tell you, surfing's not a sport, it's a way of life, it's no hobby. It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"
MP after winning bells for the millionth time - "I earned it".....
MP in the lineup at anga the week after the 77 stubbies - (Ummm, no I best not say ;) )
No Sheepdog, that was when Billabong tried to expose the coast. For all their labelling as rednecks at least the locals were granted a few years grace from the onset of crowds.
" I could say, but I won't ..." MP
Mark Warren [I think] on Ian Cairns in the bowl at sunset beach 1974
"Kanga just stands there like a big kook....then does an outrageous SnapBack"
Keith Paul had some gems but fucked if I can remember them, Blindboy can u ?
Sheepy please mate, I'm begging you...
Pat O'Connell:
"O Man, so long as you are free you will cherish the sea!
The sea is your looking glass; you contemplate your own soul
in the infinite unfolding of its waves, while your mind is a no less bitter gulf."
I can't remember any Keith Paul quotes but if you are old enough and ever surfed the northern beaches you would have to remember Harry The Hat. After getting run over by a Dappa cutback.......
" if you're going to turn like that you should give a hand signal" while holding up, classic bent arm left turn signal.
Was it Gareth Powell, the publisher of Surf International?
" Surfing is the closest sport to masturbation."
"you can sit on 55 [mph] and that's fast enough"
Big Simon when asked how the drive was from Sydney to Bells for the comp in the trusty grey EK holden sedan.
Blowin..... It's best I don't...... But my old mate spart ( photo of spart, outside corner Ulu 1980ish on a tiny twinfin) was in the water at anga the week after the stubbies, (spart lived at anga at the time, and surfed in the stubbies trials - got burnt big time).........Lets just say MP was cranking that day ;)
Stu, love that story about Leary, as told by Pezman in Glass Love, has a real truth about it
That background music by Andrew Kidman is pretty sweet, great for meditating to.
Now lets see .... Captain Goodvibes once pondered " Wot, is this thing called life?"
udo wrote:So I called Byesly at Shirley st........can you tell me if France is far from Europe.......20 secs of silence eh 3 for thirty someone said 3 what I said 3 pairs of boardies for $ 30 a pair means 2 dosent it yep so that's 6 items for $30 ..............silence............. dunno .....hangup I think I was talking to Herro ?
Ha! Should've laid down the money while you had 'em.
There's a quote in Rabbit's book that I like. Nothing particularly witty but poignant in its own way, if a tad melodramatic. After surfing the North Shore solidly for 15 years Rab has a chance meeting with Shaun on a big, ugly day at Second Reef Pipe. "Just like old times," says Shaun. The remark puts Rab in a nostalgic state and when the next big set hits Rab defies all logic, puts on his old warrior mask, and goes right. The barrel and subsequent beating is florid in description ending with the line: "And that, in all honesty, is the last great thing I ever did."
Whats some classic surfers quotes ?