Amusing myself with shenanigans of the snapper cam and it's 100 or so punters, i was struck with my own dilemma as i do from time to time. I don't like the indecision that comes with beach breaks. It leads me to want to surf a point of some variety purely because my decision making is horrible. I find myself in the impact zone more often than not getting throttled, going right, then last minute changing my mind to go left, doing a roundhouse mid face to put me there. I paddle up to where there is actually a right. A right appears just where i was. I make a futile attempt to paddle back to where I was vainly going left into the maelstrom back to another throttling. I go straight on the next one to open up my options and it the wave complies sending me straight to the beach, like i'm a kook on a soft board. I go in like my heat just ended even though it was my first wave. I drive to Noosa. 100 c***s aren't so bad I think to myself.
It gets worse. I surf a right point that isn't Noosa and I find myself going left 'cause I know I can get a 'Dane turn' in if i commit. I lament the lack of sand pumping and console myself with the fact that there is really only a left there on a certain point of the tide, and that if the swell was more southerly it would surely break for more than 50 metres, like it should if the swell wasn't exactly 150 degrees south. I happily await swell from outside swell window for one day of going left or right having no consequence on a bad session with winds that render the points back to men with SUP boards doing 'Dane turns'.
Dro....do you ever just sit idly and watch the ocean?