A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!
Mornington peninsula was great yesterday. bit more size then Sunday... nice to string two days together surfing.
sneaked a session at low tide gunnery then had a drive home session at 2nd reef pt leo. had not surfed there in years.. slightly onshore but a heap of fun.
planing a few sessions this week early on the Mornington peninsula. Woolamai should be great this week under the easterlies.
VICLB, what's ya inside leg measurement?
VICLB, what's ya inside leg measurement?
sorry u mean my sig?
Some goodies were there to be had at D-bah this am. Yahooooooooooooooo!
I was checking out the cam Stu, but man, there were a lot of bodies in the water!
Surfing makes me feel happy when I am sad.
In the famine that is surfing in vicco in summer what do you do to keen sane, surf fit, 1/2 human? Man, one day of northerlies and then 10-12 days of onshore dribble .... seem to remember it was different once.
Undergoing a bit of a rebirth at the moment.
Turns out Caml was right.
I was inadvertently looking at the slow fade of my surfing life.
Yeah, I realise the song is about a fella and his girlfriend and their smack habit, while the video is just about a chick.
But if you scrunch your ears the lyrics fit nicely regarding losing your spirit and health chasing money.
PS - Had a hell fun surf this morning. Tropical water, long walls and sneaky little hollow sections. Few crowds. Put a smile on my dial.
What did Camel say?
He said that the commentariat on this site consisted of surfers talking shit about surfing as their surfing life faded before them.
He denied that he was referring to myself, but like Mickey , he was actually prescient in his accusations .
This was 2 sad years ago.
You getting any waves ?
Nah, but I'm not too bothered by it at the moment. I got a boatload of waves just before Xmas, did a few sly day trips over the break, and the fact we're heading into my fave time of year has me feeling comfortable in my own skin. I can handle the current flat spell.
Also been getting my surf fill via other means: lotta bodysurfing, dicking around with boards (Phil Myers ten channel on its way as we speak), and on the weekend I enjoyed a thirty year reunion with this stick:
It was my board in 1985 and I sold it to a younger brother of a mate in 1986. He's recently contacted me to give it back.
Fucken thing has aged better than I have!
So yeah, it's all a bit of a proxy to the real thing at the moment but, like I said, I'm not too bothered.
Eh whats going on with the Balsa blank you were shaping ?
It's in the rafters waiting for inspiration to hit.
Sounds like your neck / shoulder issue has been sorted so if the worst you're facing is a wait for swell as the good life unfolds around you then you're killing it.
You reckon that board will still float you or is it going to usher in the next gen of Stunet shredders ?
BTW - Thanks for inflicting me with the P Pass bug. As if there ain't enough beautiful places backing up to bear witness to the chariot race / arm chuck style of yours truly.
What are the crowds like ?
PS Not a bad gig getting gratis trips to Micronesia eh ?
Might even remove the finger lodged in my date and throw my hat into the ring in the Comp.
Can still feel the neck and shoulder prob, which is a good thing. Being a lazy prick I need a constant reminder of what's at stake. Fortunately it's not bad enough to halt surfing.
Once the 5'4" is watertight I'm gonna take it for a whirl, just for old times sake. If I can squeeze into my ST Comps, size 24, then the trip will be complete. Who needs a flux capacitator?
P'Pass trip wasn't totally gratis, still involved me getting my wallet out and taking annual leave. Crowds? On the good days I surfed with anything between 1 and maybe 15 people. Paying close attention pays dividends, both while sitting on the boat and timing your sessions, and also discerning the patterns of the wave from up close. There were certain aspects that could be exploited, if you know what I mean. Think kids call such advantages 'life hacks', but fuck that, a hack is something Occy does and the crew who got the best sets didn't rely on luck.
"He said that the commentariat on this site consisted of surfers talking shit about surfing as their surfing life faded before them."
True enough, you could say that about just about any website, just changing 'surfer' to the appropriate word.
Was talking to the missus the other day and somehow the phrase 'Get busy living, or get busy dying" was uttered by me. Remembered it from Shawshank Redemption. Next show on TV we were watching also featured the same phrase - coincidence or serendipity, depending on your point of view.
I'm still trying to improve my surfing, but it ain't easy when the surf has been so poor. Inconsistency of surf is the thing that makes it so hard. Better surf times ahead, somewhere, and autumn will hit us soon enough. Fark how hot is that wind today?
Good to hear you're surfing stu. Keep on that problem, it won't go away by itself.
This might inspire you to get out there Batfink.
Photo: Jade Edson.
Fingal back beach. little peaks across a fairly wide bank around the bottom of the tide. Bit of wind but enough protection to maintain some shape. Got a couple of fun little ones but those controversial "2 foot bombs" that snuck through were mostly closing out.
Been a long time since I could surf a short board so I'm still buzzing after what was really a fairly forgettable surf! How good is it to feel that again!
edit. zen that pic is great. Looks fun out there. dunno how you surf for four hours in that. I could only ever cope with a bit over an hour in that cold.
That was a while back Benski, not like that here all the time. Still cold though even when it's sunny.
Surfed waist to shoulder high sesh today, zippy rights and punchy little lefts. Southerly wind held off so pretty much calm. Nice and glassy. Max of 7 out but enough to go around.
Good fun for a Sunday.
Sounds fun as man.
zen it is wrong to surf when there is snow on the beach!
.......but then again all I got today were a few 0.5m runners with 30 others in the line up.
OMG that's hardcore.
If you've got the right gear it's actually not that bad once you get used to it.
Hardest part is getting changed.
Morning all. I surfed Teabags in Simeulue all last week sickest funnest right-hander. has anyone else been?
Hey Craig what sort of knee op did you have,I smashed my knee up pretty badly in the surf 6 weeks ago and am looking at having to have an acl replacement. How r u going with it
"This might inspire you to get out there Batfink." (zenagain)
Thanks Zen, but don't require encouragement to surf, been getting out there as much as most working stiffs. Got busy living rather than posting to surfing websites. At least you could interpret it that way. Haven't felt the same need to express myself on these august forums of recent months.
Also, being super-busy at work from about February to end June saw me with little time for such frivolities.
But been doing as much surfing as ever, or body surfed my way through most of the summer. Enjoyed a couple of beautiful surfs at an empty beach down Stu's way in the last month (sorry stu, should have contacted you), and when the local is crowded (always) I'll hit it up for a body surf to get some time in the water. Winter body surfs so far are comfortable in a long arm 2 mm springy (short leg steamer?). You needed the full steamer on a surfboard as your body is above water and the wind chill is plenty, but body surfing keeps you below the water line.
My main issue these days are crowds. A few is great, a lot is shit. Have got quite a few days with one or two others out there at my special spots, and a couple on my own as well.
Caml's comment has that ring of truth to it though. You can talk about it, or you can go and do it. You can do both, but one takes away from the other, and while still needing to work something has to give. So the forums, though interesting when I come back, aren't as big an attraction as they once were.
Maybe going through my next life change. Can feel it in my bones, but surfing will remain a central part of my life for the foreseeable future, as long as the body holds up.
I've been doing a lot of posting because it's been FLAT for the last two months. Barely knee high. We've had 3 x one day waist high swells and that's it. Summer is here, the days are windless and the water is warming up and I'm going slowly crazy. This had been the longest flat spell I can remember after a stellar winter.
Famine or feast- that's surfing. Glad you're getting your fill BF.
Wow that's a real bummer. Not even a ripple to get a log out??
Barely. Seriously, it's just groundhog day here atm.
Waiting for the typhoons- August through October pumps here. (fingers crossed).
just surfed a beachie around Nantucket in Massachusetts, super fun punchy lefts, 3 foot. makes manly look like shit. Don't know if you remember Craig, but it was similar to that fun arvo at sunset around Steyne a while back.
'Nantucket, Manly, Steyne'- there's a limerick in there somewhere.
Ah yes I do remember! That was a little marignal but, hahaha. Good on the sets!
I am visiting friends on Philip Island for 2 nights. I had a pretty good surf at Woolamai this morning, solid 4ft ish ok banks. Yesterday I had a fun one at Forest Caves. I love this place
What a crazy day .
Tale of two seasons in a matter of hours.
The morning started like a mild summers day with a barely there Nor Wester grooming a tastey little East swell into a wedging left at a south side swell magnet. Not a person in sight .Swimming pool clarity and fun , fun , fun till about 10AM when a South Wester hit like a freight train .
Surf got destroyed by cross chop, water got murkier and the temperature dropped several degrees.
Now it felt like winter . Chilled out in a little sun soak cafe with a hot coffee then drove up the beach towards home. Noticed bait balls every few hundred metres with gannets going nuts diving into them.
Grabbed the rod from the back of the car and had a spin at the likely looking gutters. Best beach fishing session I've ever had on the East coast . Caught two tailor that must have been close to a metre. Unbelievable fish. They looked like Barra when they jumped - gills flaring and thick as fuck. I didn't know they got that big on the East coast.
Had a chat with the only other fishos on the beach and they were smashing quality bream and tarwhine.
Wound up freezing cold from standing in the Shorey casting with the wind howling after starting the day quite hot.
Came home and had the sweetest hot shower you've ever felt after hosing the salt off the car in that cold wind.
"Came home and had the sweetest hot shower you've ever felt after hosing the salt off the car in that cold wind."
Got any food n drink pics from the "little sun soak cafe" too?
That's weird....I thought you'd be bald.
And a little hint from a friend....that red clashes terribly with your blotchy skin.
Crikey. When I said you were morphing into Donald Trump, Blow-in, I didn't picture this?!
Ha ha. Boom!
"That's weird....I thought you'd be bald."
Like you, Blowie? Hang on, in 'your' infamous switchfoot pics, you had hair and were bald!?
Like Donald! He's both too. Snap!
Speaking of snaps, how come you somehow had photos of 'your' switch-footing posted, but you can't even embed a youtube vid? Did your Transition to Work service help? Mum give ya a hand?
Can she put a photo or two up of the two tailor you caught that "must have been close to a metre"?
Stu and Ben were nice enough to put the photos up for me.
I'm maybe not that good with computers but I still made a fuck of a lot more money in a few hours on my computer this week than you did working your arse off at the Busselton tavern bottlo.
PS No photos of the tailor . Let them go. If you knew anything about the world except for 2nd hand information pertaining to political bullshit then you'd know that letting the larger specimens go is essential to maintain quality fish sizes.
Plus that's way too much flesh in a fish that you really want to eat within 24 hours.
What exactly do you know about Shatner / Dale / Snuffy / Turkey ? Besides the price of piss I mean.
Answer - Less than fuck all.
"What exactly do you know about Shatner / Dale / Snuffy / Turkey ? Besides the price of piss I mean.
Answer - Less than fuck all."
Huh? What do I, Shatner, know about Shatner?? Hmmmm. R U OK?
And Blowie, you weeny surfer fuck you, while you're here, do you mind telling all of us what 'covfefe' really means?
Weekend off, Shatner ?
Only 60 hours to go brother .....
Maybe tell us about YOUR day.....Zzzzzzzzz
60 hours?? That's a weird number that represents, what?
Unless it's got something to do with that dire clip (which is unwatchable for mine), I must admit I don't get it. But then a lot of you I don't get, Blowie. Or rather, I get but wish I didn't.
Sama sama. Boring. Dime a dozen bullshit. Might even be a bit sad.
And I think there's a definitely a few of us in that boat. The guys you mentioned above as well as Doggo, Herc etc. We all 'get' you like that.
And telling us about your day?? What's that all about? Why?
What was that little tale of yours meant to convey? Was there anything particularly noteworthy there? Was there a particular story worth telling rather than being just another diary entry?
Or rather, a 'FaceBook/Twitter' post like something Trump would blurt out in all his inane vain-glorious glory??
Then again, he is the POTUS. What he says matters to a lot of people. Well, it impacts on a lot of people anyway.
You're just a bullshitter with one Seppo (Sypkan = Shit-Can = Septic Tank) as a follower/fan of sorts. Funny, he's Trump's biggest fan on here too.
Fark, you could've at least bashed the fuck out of those Tailor with your fish baton or tied them to the back of your 180B and skull-dragged them to oblivion or something.
Anyway, all cryptics aside, do you like JAM, Blovie? What sort? FIG?