Reading Material.

k-b's picture
k-b started the topic in Monday, 8 Nov 2010 at 7:05am

Hey Guys,
Just wondering what sort of biographies and/or books about surfers are a good read?
Cheers.
:)

thelostclimber's picture
thelostclimber's picture
thelostclimber commented Tuesday, 9 Nov 2010 at 6:22am

Suits and Salts is a good insight into the industry.

k-b's picture
k-b's picture
k-b commented Tuesday, 9 Nov 2010 at 7:14am

Will hunt down a copy for sure!

chill;;

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain commented Wednesday, 10 Nov 2010 at 12:38am

Mr. Sunset: The Jeff Hakman Story (Author: Phil Jarratt)

Mark Richards: A Surfing Legend (Author: David Knox)

Bustin` Down the Door: Rabbit Bartholomew (Author: Tim Baker)

Occy: The Rise and Fall and Rise of Mark Occhilupo (Author: Tim Baker).

All of the above are good reads, light and flowing and at times, real page-turners. I recommend those but in no specific order. Enjoy.

1173

k-b's picture
k-b's picture
k-b commented Wednesday, 10 Nov 2010 at 3:54am

Looks like I have some reading to do!
Cheers mate.

chill;;

rasda's picture
rasda's picture
rasda commented Thursday, 10 Mar 2011 at 10:02am

Occy A surfers year

off topic, it's a book tho The Rebel by Albert Camus quotes Stendhal

e wrote:
the only excuse for God is that he does not exist
Image
killvan-com's picture
killvan-com's picture
killvan-com commented Monday, 14 Mar 2011 at 10:43pm

www.killvan.com
An open window into the travel experiences of Jay Killvan.

Killvan.com

rushy's picture
rushy's picture
rushy commented Monday, 14 Mar 2011 at 11:19pm

k-b,
If you don't want the cost associated of getting a good read, just borrow from your local library. I just read Occy's "Rise, Fall & Rise ..." from my local library, as per Zenagain's recommendation above. Excellent read, very revealing insight. I'll see if the others on Zen's list are available. And it's all free.

If it's free, it's for me!

rasda's picture
rasda's picture
rasda commented Saturday, 14 May 2011 at 10:23am

Sums up why not to be still thinking when you take on a big wave

he's saying NO DON'T THINK underlineTHEN!

e wrote:
I had some meeting, some experience, some event, and at that moment power dropped away and I became a far better person. No, the whole construct of power, escape from death, and control over the world, is created each time thought arises. That's the very nature of.... Thought takes the universe, which is whole, and divides it into two or more things. And then begins to model how we are going to survive, how we can move with/out getting destroyed....................... That very arising of thought is the arising of fear, of division, and the drive for power.T

e wrote:
he Question to Life's Answers Steve Harrison
Sentient Publications 2002
bigwayne's picture
bigwayne's picture
bigwayne commented Sunday, 15 May 2011 at 3:48am

deep mr da very deep and something to ponder

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd commented Sunday, 15 May 2011 at 11:29am

I mostly find books written by sportsmen and women pretty boring because lets face it to be good at a physical activity doesn't mean you have to be too gifted in the brain box department. "I did this and then that because he said that to me and I was pretty focused after that blah blah blah". ........... So I would stay clear on the biographies.

I just finished reading the Peter Troy book and I couldn't recommend that. He lived an amazing life but the diaries needed to be written into a book. I have read Tim Baker's books High Surf & Bustin Down the Door and I again wouldn't recommend them ... not sure what it is about his writing but I find it pretty light.

There are some books around that are worth reading ........

The Switch-foot books 1 & 2; Andrew Kidman's Lost in the Ether and in my opinion the beautifully written book by Gerry Lopez Surf is Where You Find It. I would also suggest Wind on the Water and other surf stories by Jack Finlay.

Good luck.

bigwayne's picture
bigwayne's picture
bigwayne commented Sunday, 15 May 2011 at 8:53pm

morning loyal subjects, and lovers of bigwayne, one has just finished reading a bio on anthony keidis the lead singer of red hot chilli peppers and granted its not about sport or surfing but what a great read!! maybe something for you mr da if you havent already. another book is called blackwater and its about the dick cheyney led worlds biggest private army that operates outside the "rules" with private jets and the like ..

found the second book mesmerising

dav-e's picture
dav-e's picture
dav-e commented Thursday, 2 Jun 2011 at 1:08am

I heard that Pete Townshend, The Who guitarist, is releasing a biography soon. He is a rockin lad, so I am looking forward to reading that, as long as it is comprehensible.

rasda's picture
rasda's picture
rasda commented Friday, 3 Jun 2011 at 4:33am

I heard that Pete Townshend, The Who guitarist, is releasing a biography soon. He is a rockin lad, so I am looking forward to reading that, as long as it is comprehensible.

By: "dav-e"

read a book by Sting, yawn I liked it.

more's picture
more's picture
more commented Friday, 3 Jun 2011 at 6:08am

MP's book is a ripper, Mctavishs' is good too, Rabbits bustin down the walla is great...
Duds that I have read are all of Mick Fannings, Occs 1 year diary, the other Occ book is ok, I love Occ but book didnt do him or his story justice......Da Cat,Miki Doras' book is ordinary, poorly written IMO, was quite excited when I got it but the way they went on and on about his mystique and charisma and no substance in the writing at all, I only got thru about 20 pages....havent got SA's yet but it'd be interesting...
There's an article coming out about DH that I really wanna read and the author can write too, he should do a book....

rasda's picture
rasda's picture
rasda commented Saturday, 25 Jun 2011 at 9:34pm

Mick Fanning's book for grommets. Thanks for the tips, appreciate that.

rasda's picture
rasda's picture
rasda commented Saturday, 25 Jun 2011 at 9:56pm

"Propaganda the Formation of Men's Attitudes" by Jacques Ellul 1973 originally written (C) 1962

It's about how we sell ourselves off for a bit of peace, and think we're 'independent thinkers', someone who deserves to have some fun in our lives.

The price we pay is being part of an extremely complex society of workers, following all the rules and everything, leaving the peeps in control of the money, and some pollies, to do what they want.

The way it's done is cynical, there are social psychology techniques, first cottoned onto by hitler and Lenin, that twist concepts like marxism, socialism, democracy, peace,

using the mass media that simplify those ideas down into rationalizations for being good members of society, into simple formulas that we agree to, to be left alone, to get by and have some fun.

Now my waffle...
there's an English rag PrivateEye I'll give 1 example from memory

Their govt recently doled out, let's say it was 5 billion quid for third world immunization.

Apart from interest, we'll get to that,

it was a deal with Western drug companies including J&J costing 3 billion.
Non-western drug companies could do it for 2, but well, it was a deal.

About 2 bil went to the big-name investment banks.

So that's where 'most' tax goes.

All possible because 'we' agree: hook, line.

angrybrigade's picture
angrybrigade's picture
angrybrigade commented Tuesday, 21 Feb 2012 at 8:08pm

I would like to recommend for the discerning reader THE AMERICAN SURFER: RADICAL CULTURE & CAPITALISM by Kristen Lawler. From the publisher:

The image of surfing is everywhere in American popular culture – films, novels, television shows, magazines, newspaper articles, music, and especially advertisements. In this book, Kristin Lawler examines the surfer, one of the most significant and enduring archetypes in American popular culture, from its roots in ancient Hawaii, to Waikiki beach at the dawn of the twentieth century, continuing through Depression-era California, cresting during the early sixties, persistently present over the next three decades, and now, more globally popular than ever. Throughout, Lawler sets the image of the surfer against the backdrop of the negative reactions to it by those groups responsible for enforcing the Puritan discipline – pro-work, anti-spontaneity – and thereby offers a fresh take on contemporary discussions of the relationship between commercial culture and counterculture, and between counterculture and capitalism.

Personally, any tome that references Marx, Marcuse, Mailer & Miki Dora gets a thumbs up from me!

niggly's picture
niggly's picture
niggly commented Tuesday, 21 Feb 2012 at 11:14pm

hi' not a surf book' but read stay allive my son by Pin Yathay, i never remember book titles or authors but this book is a must read,

also i'll second floyds switchfoot recommendation, there is absolutely no way you can browse the pages of the switchfoot's and not want to go surfing, andrew kidman's approach is honest, and he captures true stoke on every page.

rees0's picture
rees0's picture
rees0 commented Wednesday, 22 Feb 2012 at 9:36pm

"Bang" and "Day Bang" by roosh v, "The Future Eaters" by Tim Flannery

angrybrigade's picture
angrybrigade's picture
angrybrigade commented Tuesday, 8 May 2012 at 8:34pm

Malcolm Knox's THE LIFE is a great piece of surfing literature... & you can count those works that qualify as such on one shaka'd hand, in my opinion, bruddahs

rattle's picture
rattle's picture
rattle commented Wednesday, 9 May 2012 at 4:45pm

Favel Parrett's Past The Shallows is a novel set in Tasmania with a great ocean / fishing and surfing connection.
Favel is a Torquay based surfer. I found this book to be a great read. It was nominated for the Miles Franklin award.

Gerry Lopez's Surf is where you find it sets a very high standard.

Breath by Tim Winton is excellent but only until it starts on that strange tanget (in my opinion).

Also, this website is worth checking ........ http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Home.html

Ebay has some bargins from time to time.

Hope that helps

dude_2's picture
dude_2's picture
dude_2 commented Sunday, 3 Jun 2012 at 10:38pm

http://www.flyingpineapple.com.au/
CAPTAIN GOODVIBES

My Life As A Pork Chop. 1973-1981

Tony Edwards, Edited by Sean Doherty

Captain Goodvibes, the thinking man's f_ckwit, a lovable abomination, a cartoon pig who became a cult hero to a generation of Australian surfers. Valiantly battling the three-headed Hydra of sobriety, employment and authority, the Pig of Steel took bad taste, substance abuse and pointless revolution out of the gutter and onto the beach, souring young lives and stealing the promise of a bright future from the tiny hands. But The Captain's story cannot be told without telling the story of his creator, Tony Edwards; an artist, family man, a man of refined sensibilities... and a man who had this horrific creature living inside him.

My Life as a Pork Chop is 400 pages of the very best and very worst of Captain Goodvibes.

willywag's picture
willywag's picture
willywag commented Monday, 4 Jun 2012 at 8:22pm

Don't know if this has been mentioned but Breath by TIm Winton is a cracker read it is fiction but he really knows how to write about the water. Others are ' dogs of winter' by keen nunn and ' caught inside' can't remember the author of that one. Both those last two are seppo books but worth a look. To anyone who is into surfing fishing spear fishing or the sea in general do ya self a favour and get into Tim wintons books. The guy writes from experience. Cheers

willywag's picture
willywag's picture
willywag commented Monday, 4 Jun 2012 at 8:37pm

It's Kem Nunn not keen Nunn sorry, and also found the book 'caught inside' and it's by Daniel Duane . Hope that helps. you got me inspired to crack one of these open again. Cheers ww.