Books About Surfing

Surprised no one's responded to this as there should be a plethora of non-fiction surfing books - in particular, many first hand accounts of stories/experiences.

May I recommend a book written by a New Yorker Journalist, William Finnegan: Barbarian Days. You might not appreciate the stories as much as a seasoned surfer but it's a great book that evokes a particular set of emotions.

Any more out there?

Good overview of Australian surf culture in 'Blue Heaven- The Story of Australian Surfing' and also if you want to look at surf culture in Australia through its collectables and memorabilia, you should look for 'Surforama- The Treasures of Australian Surfing.'

As already mentioned, Barbarian Days is a fantastic read, both the quality of the writing and in Finnegan's devotion to the sport you get a matter-of-fact history lesson. He ticks off the roots of surfing, how its viewed differently from Hawaii compared to the US and Australia, the social upheaval of the Shortboard Revolution, the discovery years - including Honolua, Tavarua, and Madeira - plus a visit to Oz when surfing here was approaching its zenith, and on to surfing becoming a cosmopolitan diversion. All told by way of Finnegan actually being there.

'Nat's Nat and That's That' is a big, bolshie autobiograhy from Nat Young who loves telling a good story and speaks with candour.

Best bit: The California Wind Test.

'Busting Down The Door' is Tim Baker's bio of Rabbit, so it covers the Coolangatta push, birth of pro surfing, the rise of Aussie surfing, all Rabbit's achievements of course, plus the rudiments of the Dream Tour.

Best bit: Late-80s hook up with old comrade Shaun Tomson at Second Reef Pipe, Rab scrapes into a bomb and, just for old time's sake, he swings right, pulls into a Backdoor closeout, gets thrashed across the reef and washed up on the beach. "And that," says Rabbit, "is the last great thing I ever did."

More to come...

I've read many,and History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw has gotta b top 5. Big call? Do yourself a favour & check it out

Bob McTavish's STOKED vol 1 & STILL STOKED vol 2 affectionately evoke the golden epoch of early Australian surfing. His adventure stowing away to Hawaii and time spent hanging out with and learning from George Greenough is also fascinating. Bob was clearly a rebel- larrikin, risk-taker, key player in the short board revolution and board design legend; he is of course, still heavily engaged with his business in Byron Bay.

Surf is where you find it by Gerry Lopez is a great read. Lopez is a good writer and describes his experiences in a way that a non-surfer or beginner would understand without it being irritating for seasoned surfers to read.

Breath by Tim Winton

Life of Brine - Phil Jarratt. An unexpurgated account of the journey from Illawarra grom to acclaimed surf journo.

Reading Phils book at present, thought it be a bit boring, but really enjoying it. Wish he went into a bit more detail with the Jan Stephensan (golfer) interview.

I read a surf novel ages ago that I can't recall the name of - it followed a fella who drove across Australia, starting at Castle Cove in Vicco and ended up at Lakey Peak having a scary time on magic mushies. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

I think Salts and Suits by Jarratt is a better read than his latest effort - its about how the surfie bums became multi millionaires. From a slightly more technical perspective for your surfing improvement I always encourage people to read Nick Carrolls "Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best Volume 2." The book he wrote on his brother "TC - Tom Carroll" is a belter. Can read that one in a day - a real page turner - even when you know the outcome.

As has been previously said Finnegan's book is the pick though.

wheres the best place to get a online purchase copy of "Salts & Suits"

Looks like it's available
https://www.amazon.com/Salts-Suits-Phil-Jarratt/dp/1740667409

Xmas 2019 - Op Shop best sellers

Lifeline $4 The Next Wave by Nick Carroll
Lifeline $4 Pipe Dreams by Kelly Slater
Lifeline $3 Extreme Surf by Benjamin Marcus

Total.....$15 > $4 c/o Swellnet Lifeline Classic.
Note: Op Shop Lady saluted & thanked crew for donation.
https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2019/04/27/massive-wave-...

RSPCA $4 Book of Hot Surfing by Taj Burrow

Total......$6 > $2 to Quokka Pro Etiquette School ...(More cringe than Cute!)
https://images.thewest.com.au/publication/B881222380Z/1559785905916_G0R2...

Robe legend Steve Woolston (or grump if you asked him where Stoney Rise is in the 80s)
https://www.lizharfull.com/lizs-books/finding-steves-place/
(Soursob Bob's playing Robe Town Brewery August 4th)

important question ^^
"how far can you wear your underpants from the beach?" - Vimeo
(short film winner, Tropfest 2000, privacy settings when link is posted)

Surfing in the Dark

Tassie Nick Green's photog-tour of winter in West Ireland.. (thanks needessentials):

"Nick Green is a photographer and surfer from Tasmania, know for spending hours in the water shooting some of the coldest and wildest surfing destinations. We are fortunate to have Nick testing needessentials wetsuits while he works capturing beautiful imagery. Nick spent the past Northern Hemisphere winter documenting and exploring Ireland's western shore's many moods.

Nick has just released a new book titled Éire Noire with 10% of sales donated to Home Tree.
https://www.nickgreenphoto.com/books/eirenoire

Home Tree is a nature restoration charity in the west of Ireland, working to restore native temperate rainforests. Their approach blends community, culture, science, and natural systems to support resilient ecosystems. Through planting, conservation, and education, they aim to reconnect people with nature and revive the landscape."

(there's a great little flick-through of the book in a fast-motion clip under 'add to cart'.

only $44 ! even with the 10% enviro donation.. get 2! Cheers, Nick, can't wait).

^ Nick's book was fantastically emotive.. subtle, understated, B&W.. very moving imagery. Anyone who's spent time there will immediately relate to the gritty life textures in Nick's visual storytelling. I did get 2. Gonna gift one to a mate with Irish connections.

Anyone who doesn't have Chris Gudenswager's books is missing a piece of the Aussie puzzle.. I reckon 'Swag' still has some box sets available, which he might sign if you ask him nicely. Required reading, as you all know.. $200 is an absolute bargain, if you haven't read them..

https://www.swagbooks.com.au/

basesix wrote:

Anyone who doesn't have Chris Gudenswager's books is missing a piece of the Aussie puzzle.. I reckon 'Swag' still has some box sets available, which he might sign if you ask him nicely. Required reading, as you all know.. $200 is an absolute bargain, if you haven't read them..

https://www.swagbooks.com.au/

Yep I concur, have them all, great reading....

(oops, dropped off the front page, I promised a feller I'd meet him here).
umm.. oh! That stonking book of Dean Dampney's, one of the best to have on your shelf, dripping with reminders about the camaraderie we have all had through our surfing life.
https://www.swellnet.com/news/the-depth-test/2024/05/06/review-the-ocean...
https://theoceandiviners.com/products/the-ocean-diviners
(hark! I can hear the feller's voice upstairs, might go up and say g'day)

: ( *sniff*
@john.calhoun doesn't like my services..

BY REQUEST -

My book, surfEXPLORE: Discovering New Surfing Locations Worldwide is scheduled for release on 29 September, 2025.

THE BOOK is 28 chapters of international surfing adventure in Africa, Asia, Europe and the Americas with 624 images and 304 pages of pure surfing gold.

The book is available for pre-order direct from Schiffer Publishing and on Amazon and many other sites and a review is scheduled to appear on Swellnet at some point -

Here is the description paragraph from the Amazon site:

A packed volume that documents 28 extraordinary and previously uncharted surf locations worldwide, featuring photography and unique travel narratives from the expeditions of John Seaton Callahan and the surfEXPLORE® Group.

Readers embark on a global journey of discovery with surfEXPLORE: Discovering New Surfing Locations Worldwide, an unparalleled exploration of 28 extraordinary and untapped surfing destinations. Join internationally recognized surf travel expert John Seaton Callahan and the surfEXPLORE® Group as they unveil breathtaking waves, vibrant cultures, and the stories behind finding and surfing uncharted waters across Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Americas. This book is a celebration, replete with stunning images, of adventure and an inspiration for surfers and travelers to push their boundaries.

Key Features:

• Acclaimed team: Insightful text from a globally recognized surf travel expert with 25+ years of experience and a team of acclaimed explorers renowned for their expertise in discovering new surf locations
• Striking images: Over 500 vivid images from remote and iconic surfing locations worldwide
• Uncharted journeys: Detailed accounts of discovering and riding waves for the first time in uncharted waters
• Cultural representation: Travel anecdotes from surfing adventures across Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Americas
• Inspirational: A source of inspiration for surfers, adventure travelers, and explorers

A comprehensive guide to the most-extraordinary waves and untapped surf locations across the globe, offering insights, inspiration, and breathtaking photography for the surf and travel community.

yayy! God bless you, Mr Calhoun.
I reckon people will be supportive of you in the context of this thread.

john.callahan wrote:

BY REQUEST -

My book, surfEXPLORE: Discovering New Surfing Locations Worldwide is scheduled for release on 29 September, 2025.

THE BOOK is 28 chapters of international surfing adventure in Africa, Asia, Europe and the Americas with 624 images and 304 pages of pure surfing gold.

The book is available for pre-order direct from Schiffer Publishing and on Amazon and many other sites and a review is scheduled to appear on Swellnet at some point -

Here is the description paragraph from the Amazon site:

A packed volume that documents 28 extraordinary and previously uncharted surf locations worldwide, featuring photography and unique travel narratives from the expeditions of John Seaton Callahan and the surfEXPLORE® Group.

Readers embark on a global journey of discovery with surfEXPLORE: Discovering New Surfing Locations Worldwide, an unparalleled exploration of 28 extraordinary and untapped surfing destinations. Join internationally recognized surf travel expert John Seaton Callahan and the surfEXPLORE® Group as they unveil breathtaking waves, vibrant cultures, and the stories behind finding and surfing uncharted waters across Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Americas. This book is a celebration, replete with stunning images, of adventure and an inspiration for surfers and travelers to push their boundaries.

Key Features:

• Acclaimed team: Insightful text from a globally recognized surf travel expert with 25+ years of experience and a team of acclaimed explorers renowned for their expertise in discovering new surf locations
• Striking images: Over 500 vivid images from remote and iconic surfing locations worldwide
• Uncharted journeys: Detailed accounts of discovering and riding waves for the first time in uncharted waters
• Cultural representation: Travel anecdotes from surfing adventures across Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Americas
• Inspirational: A source of inspiration for surfers, adventure travelers, and explorers

A comprehensive guide to the most-extraordinary waves and untapped surf locations across the globe, offering insights, inspiration, and breathtaking photography for the surf and travel community.

If every location has the direction of devil winds i think you're onto a winner.

Thanx for sharing an exclusive review of yer exotic expeditions with the crew.
Also for stoking a swellnet review!
Sounds amazing john.callahan...yew!

Recently gifted the Staff > 2003? Laminated Margaret River Surf Spot Brochure!
Pretty well done it was...still good but needed some love!

Almost forgot to share the love of Oz Classics...this did happen in 2024!
[ The Surfrider ] still the gift that keeps on giving...you little beauty!
Some pretty neat bookmarks help seal the deal...Hands off them swellnet frontline sick notes!
https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2024/09/03/swellnet-life...

^^ so, that's the press release.. we've seen that about 70 times in various abridged forms..

let's make it more relatable, and you more personable..

So, @john.calhoun. Epic achievement. Seems to represent a culmination of a lifelong career. Do you have any favourite (sic as) destinations that appear in the book? I'm sure the audience would like to hear any background anecdotes of life on the road. Mustn't be easy to travel and document in unfamiliar places and along unbeaten paths?