Long Term Damage ?

udo's picture
udo started the topic in Sunday, 5 Jul 2015 at 6:17pm

Any thoughts of the long term damage big wave riding may do ?
Players of Football, boxing with head knocks concussion etc showing signs of major brain damage

Now we have lots big wave surfers......chasing and surfing the biggest heaviest most evil slabs on earth, 2 wave hold downs , the fittest surfers coming up from a wipeout saying fuck I was nearly gone , Mark Mathews [I think ] at the right clambering back to the ski with blood coming from the ears......others blacking out underwater.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 5 Jul 2015 at 6:19pm

Cant be good for the body , I guess in years to come we'll know ?

norchock's picture
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norchock Sunday, 5 Jul 2015 at 7:50pm

They'll be right bet marky or his mates couldn't last a week brickies labouring.lets hope marky has some gloves..

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Sunday, 5 Jul 2015 at 10:14pm

Interesting topic. Lack of oxygen to the brain for prolonged periods, combined with concussions can't be good. I suppose it comes down to how often it's happening for these surfers. AFL/NFL injuries etc happen on a pretty regular basis. How often are these guys your referring to exposing themselves to this punishment? Every week? Wouldn't of thought so. Your right though, only time will tell.

It's an interesting time to raise this topic. After that No Kandui swell & that account from that bloke Coffin that got smashed, blacked out etc but survived. He sounded spooked, couldn't stop crying, thinking about his family and what could of been. Thing is though, was that guy thinking about his family as he was surfing those waves but kept surfing anyway? Surely they know death is a realistic possibility in such heavy surf conditions, unlikely but possible. Seems a bit strange to consider the fact after the event. You can't have it both ways can you? Your either in or your out I would of thought. In terms of long term damage, I wonder if these types of surfers would stop even they were told the next prolonged hold down might result in possible irreversible damage? Some would some wouldn't I suppose.......

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Sunday, 5 Jul 2015 at 10:32pm

Also what about long term mental damage? Heavy life threatening experiences. Was it Flavio pavaratz (bad spelling) that freaked out after that heavy incident at inside Chopes, when his leggy got caught etc, never returned to compete there I don't think. Those sort of heavy situations. Wonder if the Pros on the WSL would have any potential legal rights into a damages claim from such incidents, particularly over a long period of time. Seems to be the way of the world these days......

morris's picture
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morris Monday, 6 Jul 2015 at 6:27am

Rabbits68 wrote: Interesting topic. Lack of oxygen to the brain for prolonged periods, combined with concussions can't be good. I suppose it comes down to how often it's happening for these surfers. AFL/NFL injuries etc happen on a pretty regular basis. How often are these guys your referring to exposing themselves to this punishment? Every week? Wouldn't of thought so. Your right though, only time will tell.

It's an interesting time to raise this topic. After that No Kandui swell & that account from that bloke Coffin that got smashed, blacked out etc but survived. He sounded spooked, couldn't stop crying, thinking about his family and what could of been. Thing is though, was that guy thinking about his family as he was surfing those waves but kept surfing anyway? Surely they know death is a realistic possibility in such heavy surf conditions, unlikely but possible. Seems a bit strange to consider the fact after the event. You can't have it both ways can you? Your either in or your out I would of thought. In terms of long term damage, I wonder if these types of surfers would stop even they were told the next prolonged hold down might result in possible irreversible damage? Some would some wouldn't I suppose.......

Haven't seen that one, bloke sounds like a bit of a drama queen, why the fuck would you be crying? Had a few near death experiences over my life and every time was grinning from ear to ear cause I was alive and of course was weary in future of putting myself in the same position.
Ahh nothing more politically correct than a tattooed man weeping, did he have a beard?

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Monday, 6 Jul 2015 at 10:34am

Hey Morris, not sure if your just shit stirring but if your interested in that story check the link below, posted by IndoDreaming on the other thread.....

http://www.surfingmagazine.com/blogs/evading-death-on-the-swell-of-the-y...

uplift's picture
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uplift Monday, 6 Jul 2015 at 11:15am

Well, there's way worse, and you have to earn a buck somehow.

They croak doing this one.

But this is probably most dangerous in the long term. It reminds me of Newy ledge Homer's last surf at 2 foot hotty over this way... blax'll do that to em, he had to get out while he was still alive.

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shaun Monday, 6 Jul 2015 at 1:39pm

Morris, stirring the pot??? I doubt it.

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Monday, 6 Jul 2015 at 2:02pm

shaun wrote: Morris, stirring the pot??? I doubt it.

Yeah I'm not sure what I was thinking........

stunet's picture
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stunet Monday, 6 Jul 2015 at 2:37pm

udo wrote: Any thoughts of the long term damage big wave riding may do ? Players of Football, boxing with head knocks concussion etc showing signs of major brain damage Now we have lots big wave surfers......chasing and surfing the biggest heaviest most evil slabs on earth, 2 wave hold downs , the fittest surfers coming up from a wipeout saying fuck I was nearly gone , Mark Mathews [I think ] at the right clambering back to the ski with blood coming from the ears......others blacking out underwater.

I doubt long term damage would be an issue, they're not suffering repeated head trauma such as boxers or rugby forwards. The risk, I believe, is not one of aggravation but of probability; how many times can you push your luck until you pay the piper? The more you do it the closer you get.

Fellas like Mark Mathews train like the professional sportsmen they are, employing cardio, stretching, breath hold and mind control techniques. But in big waves the real danger is impact wounds - collisions with the reef or with your surfboard. It's hard to control what happens in a high speed wipeout, and the more you put yourself in that situation, the more your probablity of a bad impact increases.

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Monday, 6 Jul 2015 at 8:03pm

norchock wrote: They'll be right bet marky or his mates couldn't last a week brickies labouring.lets hope marky has some gloves..

.........! Brickie fuck me champ, Brickie, Bricklayer, Brickie again what about some more blocks champ;)
Fucking gold mate awesome stuff ......Love it you big brick layer you;)

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Monday, 6 Jul 2015 at 11:16pm

That was awesome Uppity. I saw AC/DC in Vancouver in 1991, brilliant live.

The waterfall vid was pretty cool too.

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Tuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 12:45am

uplift wrote: Well, there's way worse, and you have to earn a buck somehow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNXh9gXDd2Y

They croak doing this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vjctu6TgAU8

But this is probably most dangerous in the long term. It reminds me of Newy ledge Homer's last surf at 2 foot hotty over this way... blax'll do that to em, he had to get out while he was still alive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA50zteAbeA

The Bon Scott era was the go for that one Uppitty. You like??........

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Tuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 7:52am

That was fucking awesome too Rabs.

Cheers.

Speaking of long term damage, how would the members of AC/DC's hearing be these days?

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Tuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 8:56am

Yeah true Zen, I wonder. Malcolm Young has got some serious health issues which has put a finish to his part in the band. Be interesting to know if seriously loud music combined with head banging, drugs, wild sex & more Rock n Roll, over a long period of time contributed to it? Legendary band......

uplift's picture
uplift's picture
uplift Tuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 11:02am

Yeh, both awesome clips, certainly didn't think to leave anything in the tank. 110%. And that's only the tip, what you see. Not counting the countless hours and years practicing his craft, to enable the mind bender.

It reminds me of something simple, say hanging knee raises. Simple, except you actually have to be able to hang there first, for as long as you like:

OOOOOUUUUWWWTTTCCCHHH... wet me down... iths huwting my wittle hanths...

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 31 May 2021 at 3:50pm

stunet wrote:

udo wrote: Any thoughts of the long term damage big wave riding may do ? Players of Football, boxing with head knocks concussion etc showing signs of major brain damage Now we have lots big wave surfers......chasing and surfing the biggest heaviest most evil slabs on earth, 2 wave hold downs , the fittest surfers coming up from a wipeout saying fuck I was nearly gone , Mark Mathews [I think ] at the right clambering back to the ski with blood coming from the ears......others blacking out underwater.

I doubt long term damage would be an issue, they're not suffering repeated head trauma such as boxers or rugby forwards. The risk, I believe, is not one of aggravation but of probability; how many times can you push your luck until you pay the piper? The more you do it the closer you get.

Fellas like Mark Mathews train like the professional sportsmen they are, employing cardio, stretching, breath hold and mind control techniques. But in big waves the real danger is impact wounds - collisions with the reef or with your surfboard. It's hard to control what happens in a high speed wipeout, and the more you put yourself in that situation, the more your probablity of a bad impact increases.


stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 31 May 2021 at 4:41pm

You don't get around in a red bandana, do you Udo?

wes sam's picture
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wes sam Monday, 14 Jun 2021 at 3:10am

I saw AC/DC in Vancouver in 1991, brilliant live. [URL="https://disaster-md.com/services/fire-damage/"]fire damage restoration mold michigan[/URL] Malcolm Young has got some serious health issues which has put a finish to his part in the band. Be interesting to know if seriously loud music combined with head banging, drugs

frog's picture
frog's picture
frog Monday, 14 Jun 2021 at 3:41pm

Pipe regulars might be surprised if they had a brain scan. The damage is not from hitting the bottom but the repeated jarring of heavy wipeouts.

In big waves you have the low risk calculated Brad Gerlach tow in approach with barely a bad wioeout in 5 years and then the new go for it paddle in crew with blackouts, seeing double and car accident level brain trauma occurring on a regular basis.

An emerging issue for many from what I have read.

Pick your path carefully.