Premium ad-free surfcams, dawn surf reports, forecaster notes, long range surf forecasts... Get Swellnet PRO for $7.33 per month Premium ad-free surfcams, dawn surf reports, and more... Get Swellnet PRO for $7.33 per month

Where did you surf today?

lom's picture
lom started the topic in
Wax On
 Wednesday, 23 Feb 2011 at 11:22am

A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!

AlfredWallace's picture
AlfredWallace's picture
AlfredWallace Friday, 20 Jun 2025 at 8:23pm
mick66 wrote:
AlfredWallace wrote:
mick66 wrote:

Ran the dog on the beach at sunrise, and there was more of a wave than expected. Back to the house to roust our middle daughter up with a coffee and out the door. Water and air both close to 80 degrees, and straight offshore at 10-15. Mostly around stomach/chest, with an occassional plus set. Back lit, aquarium clear and lots of sealife moving, including big rays passing under us now and then. Surfed for 2 hours with no one out.
Pretty nice way to start the day.

Mick66. Hi pal.
You paint a great happy picture, especially with temps around the 27c (80f) mark both in and out of the water. Sounds like life’s running in the right direction. Good stuff. AW

It sure was, AW. Just a great morning all-around.. You've got to appreciate the good times when they come, right? (And to be clear, our life certainly isn't some never-ending collage of IG influencer picture perfect moments. I hate that fakeness. )
btw, one more story, and I'll stop rambling on. About 10 days ago, it was similar conditions at the same spot, but dead glass and maybe just a little bigger. As we came in from an extended lunchtime surf, a tourist on the beach stopped me to say she'd enjoyed watching us surf, and then to ask if it would seem creepy to say she'd taken some video of us. I laughed and said of course it wasn't, at which point she offered to send a video. Anyway, when I got it later that day it was a video of my daughter dropping in and cruising on a perfect chest high right. What stood out though was the background commentary of the woman and her friend, asking each other if they could imagine being able to do what my daughter was doing.
I've replayed it numerous times, just to remind myself that as surfers we're pretty lucky to do what we do.

Mick66. Hi mate.

So true. We sure are, we sure are lucky.
Interestingly, over my lifetime, I’ve met a couple of guys who said something strange to me.
They said, I use to surf. I say what, what do you mean you use to surf, once a surfer always a surfer, I simply don’t understand how you can give up being a surfer.

Each to their own I suppose. AW