"It was the sort of session where you only caught a few waves, and you always felt like you were gonna snap your board."

So said Paul Stanton about the session that bore this long and throaty barrel. The swell was too straight and too big for the bank but Paul surfed it for five hours, patiently waiting for the ones that hit just right; the ones that allowed entry while also offering the chance at an exit, however slim that might be. Perfection may have it's place in surfing but these sort of sessions, when you must hunt and probe and play the odds, are arguably more satisfying.

Photographer Fernando Lores spent thirty minutes on the hill and lucked into this succesful sequence of Paul. A fine example of surfer and photographer being on the right side of the odds.