should be more to do with how well you know and surf a wave shouldn't it? not living nearby if you're a kook.
Left my home town 20 years ago, although I know the setups intimately I wouldn't consider myself a local there anymore. Just a handful of older crew would remember me.
I lived in-land for 10 years, a 2-3 hours drive from a relatively uncrowded stretch of coast. I still managed to surf weekly. Quality over quantity was my philosophy. Despite having never lived in the community, I've surfed those spots my entire life and know every face in the line-up. On land not a local, in the water I'd say I am pretty damn close.
A few years ago I moved to a stone's throw from one of the premier waves in the region. A historically localised wave that attracts a crowd. I surf it almost everyday, and have made some great friends in the line-up. I'm involved with the surfclub (not board riders), football club, and school. No way I'm a local though.
Maybe its easier for blowins who are passing through and not concerned with laying down roots, to upset the pecking order.
Go figure. I don't care, I get my waves.
What I miss out on is the connection to country, and shared history that true locals enjoy.
It’s always funny to return to somewhere you were previously a known face in the lineup and watching the change in reception amongst recent arrivals as you are greeted by the top dogs.
Instant attitude adjustment. They go from scowling and closed to openly friendly and accepting even though they’ve still got no idea who you are.
I am new to surfing. Started last Aug. Have bodyboarded for decades. (52 yrs old.) Just my 2 cents, but i think a "noob" and a "kook" are different. A noob will make mistakes but want to learn from them and approach the whole shootin match with respect for the ocean, the beach, the wildlife, and the locals. A kook doesn't know or care and snakes waves and ditches boards, etc... I mean, it's whatevs. People can call me kook if they need to, just sayin there are different types of kooks.