Submitted by Roadkill on Fri, 01/03/2020 - 13:54
For many here 6/7 ft is pretty much not a big deal. For me it is.
I paddled out over the weekend into 6 ft +...I made excuses for an hour, had a coffee, was going to go home but eventually thought fuck it...got changed and headed out.
I can say...I was shit scared and got 3 bombs on my head. I got under the 1st..half under the 2nd and dragged back over the falls...and on the 3rd bailed my board and thought I was going to drown.
Sat around for 60 minutes, pretended to not make the 1st couple of 6ft waves.
Once again, though fuck it...paddled into the next 6ft..dropped in..bottom turn..set a rail...was pretty good. Got 2 more waves..went in exhausted.
It's pretty fucking epic to finally surf...what I call BIG.
Who remember their first time being scared but pushing through it.
Yes when I lived in Yamba many years ago some locals took me out to a break called spookies where I road a semi gun for the first time. I remember spending the first hour sitting on the outside dodging rogue sets until I was inevitably caught in the inside with the locals on the outside paddling back out looking at me screaming go as some big sets rolling in.
Once I started paddling I felt the speed build up underneath me which was so different from the usual shortboards I was surfing and the feeling of racing down the huge face was really something I will never forget.
Shortly later I ended up in the same position again, except this time I was too far in the inside and the set that was coming was so fucking massive I had never seen anything so big before and it was already starting to feather some way out I knew I was going to get it, in fact, I honestly thought that this could be the end, my heart was so far in my mouth I just couldn't breathe I just froze and then in slow motion, I bailed off my board and I tried to swim as far down as possible even though I knew it was going to be useless to avoid what was coming. The beating was quite bad and I did lose my board and ended up floating back to the beach where I was still shaking when I got out.
After spending a lot of time now in Indo and gradually working my way back up, I have reached the conclusion that the experience for me is really only mental and once you let go of your preconceived ideas of how a massive set may treat you if you are in the wrong position makes it easier to surf bigger waves IMO.
Good onya RK