Waves of consequence...1st time. (Consequence is subjective)

Roadkill's picture
Roadkill started the topic in Friday, 3 Jan 2020 at 1:54pm

For many here 6/7 ft is pretty much not a big deal. For me it is.

I paddled out over the weekend into 6 ft +...I made excuses for an hour, had a coffee, was going to go home but eventually thought fuck it...got changed and headed out.

I can say...I was shit scared and got 3 bombs on my head. I got under the 1st..half under the 2nd and dragged back over the falls...and on the 3rd bailed my board and thought I was going to drown.

Sat around for 60 minutes, pretended to not make the 1st couple of 6ft waves.

Once again, though fuck it...paddled into the next 6ft..dropped in..bottom turn..set a rail...was pretty good. Got 2 more waves..went in exhausted.

It's pretty fucking epic to finally surf...what I call BIG.

Who remember their first time being scared but pushing through it.

mickseq's picture
mickseq's picture
mickseq commented Friday, 24 Jan 2020 at 10:02pm

Yes when I lived in Yamba many years ago some locals took me out to a break called spookies where I road a semi gun for the first time. I remember spending the first hour sitting on the outside dodging rogue sets until I was inevitably caught in the inside with the locals on the outside paddling back out looking at me screaming go as some big sets rolling in.

Once I started paddling I felt the speed build up underneath me which was so different from the usual shortboards I was surfing and the feeling of racing down the huge face was really something I will never forget.

Shortly later I ended up in the same position again, except this time I was too far in the inside and the set that was coming was so fucking massive I had never seen anything so big before and it was already starting to feather some way out I knew I was going to get it, in fact, I honestly thought that this could be the end, my heart was so far in my mouth I just couldn't breathe I just froze and then in slow motion, I bailed off my board and I tried to swim as far down as possible even though I knew it was going to be useless to avoid what was coming. The beating was quite bad and I did lose my board and ended up floating back to the beach where I was still shaking when I got out.

After spending a lot of time now in Indo and gradually working my way back up, I have reached the conclusion that the experience for me is really only mental and once you let go of your preconceived ideas of how a massive set may treat you if you are in the wrong position makes it easier to surf bigger waves IMO.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Friday, 24 Jan 2020 at 10:15pm

Good onya RK