Friday afternoon I rolled the dice and lost..
I chase a lot of swells up and down the coast, and more times than not I'll find what I'm looking for or at least have back up options in case the spot I was hoping for wasn't working.
Sometimes I also try and hit flukey and dicey swells, and if things pan out I can usually score breaks known for crowds with hardly anyone around, or even empty.
This was my plan after work Friday, hit a late arriving and flukey swell somewhere in the bush.
Arriving late, the car park was empty which was a great sign regarding crowds, but was it because it was flat?
After a scramble through the bush track and no signs of surf on the usual indicators I rocked up at the rock shelf looking at perfectly clean 1ft sets (unsurfable).
I waited for 10 or so minutes and there were lines trying to break, but it was mostly 1ft. Then a hint of what I was waiting for, a clean crisp 2ft'er bowling in on the reef with no one out.
I paddled out with under an hour of light left, and it took me half an hour to see a set even close to surfable. It was a waist-high runner, and from then I got another three similar waves, with one 2ft bomb set.
I surfed into the darkness as pods of dolphins fished all throughout the bay, while also putting on a show launching into the air while spinning. It was a little sketchy being alone sitting over a dark reef with no on else as the marine wildlife went nuts, but such an awesome experience to be in such a special place solo.
The next morning was a similar story but with an early crowd so I left and hit up a small clean fun 2ft beachy.
While not scoring the waves I was hoping for (buy also knowing that there was a good chance this would happen), being in such an amazing place made it worth it regardless.
That's surfing though isn't it, not just the waves but the whole journey and experience!
Nice pics Craig, worth getting away even though the waves weren't all time
Very sweet Craig.
Heading south next weekend, you know where, because I have the time and the family is going elsewhere, what is a man to do. I'm hardly going to pass up the opportunity even if the prospects aren't good.
Expectations low, but sometimes you can get lucky and find a lot of fun, and I can safely say that the crowds will be very low.
Now, where's black duck, and is that his name on these forums. May see you down there black duck. Keep an eye out.
That's a pretty good 'loss' by the way Craig. If you can call getting into country like that and call it a loss you are doing well.
That place can be really fun at 2ft, nice story.
Didn't miss anything back in manly craig
Almost missed this.
Such a cool little adventure.
That's the main thing - waves are great but it's the expanded horizons that count.
Nice photos, good story .
Looks like a sweet set up.
Aussie is so good - wildlife, Serenity and solace if you please, opportunity for good waves that most nations can only dream about.
I'd rather this than spoon fed pros being led by the nose to glory any day.
Like your approach to the hunt Craig .
Again , well done mate.
All of the above.
Beautiful. Waves would have been a bonus but the trip itself would have made up for the lack of them.
love that spot
Yeah the times I have pulled this off have been incredible, one Monday morning last year, 3-4ft and as good as it gets at that size with 3 others. To myself for the first half hour!
Good score Craig, that's a special place right there. The amount of times I wish I had some Mad Wax to get me there !
Yeah, its a good score. Its uplifting that we can still get these in this day of super crowds, super banks near super cities.