Howz that feeling when your out in big surf and it feels bigger than the land youve just climbed down from?...feeks like your cliff high!!...radical...any others?..on your owns fuckn freaky...and calming in a sense
Yeah I used to love surfing by myself on south coast NSW until a shark bumped me.
Then sort of had a phobia of sharks if I was alone it got better after a while though.
There's been a few shark sightings around here this week since a rivermouth opened up but one of the better reefs near here was fairly good last week and the other two out went to work.
I felt pretty alone and spooky and decided to just paddle in a bit and watch from a few rocks.to sus out the wave and mind surf it..used to do that as a kid and I reckon it helps your surfing a lot. Still I was semi dissapointed in myself when smokers came through, not being on it.
Ages ago, and I mean ages ago, I paddled out to old woman island left... I was lucky enough to have it to myself (I said it was ages ago lol)...... 4 to 5 foot east swell, so the last section was a bit backwashy from the righthander, and some sets were missing the takeoff, but every 5 minutes or so, a set would hit the reef and line up nice... The barrel was shutting down, or chandeliering as the goon commentators like to say, so one of those race the section - big gouge -race -floater type sessions.....
havin a ball... pissed off in a way, no one to witness or hoot with ( funny - pissed off when it's crowded, pissed off onya lonesome)...
Anyways, Heaps of fish, dolphins,... The turtles were popping up.. As soon as you'd make eye contact, whoosh - under they'd go....
A good hour of waves.... Laughin' at these turtles, taking in the dolphin vibe, then presto..... Gone.... Fish gone..... Turtles gone..... Dolphin's gone..... Empty ocean..... it's then that you can hear little things like the water ebbing and slurping over your board as you sit there....
I never saw a shark..... But you don't have an area full of various sealife just go barren in 1 minute....
The 20 minute paddle back was interesting lol
Barley there is a bombie at home I try to surf whenever its on. Starts breaking on really low tides at about 5ish ft. And you can paddle into it until about 8ft. Then it starts to double up to much and you start towing it over that because it doesn't have an entry point where you can paddle in. Its just a double up slab after that. And the thing is, if you surf it during the week after work you can guarantee that it will only be you and whatever mates you paddle out with. Or very rarely 1 or 2 others. So your sitting out the back by yourself once they have got a wave, or already gone in, and at this place whenever a solid one is coming it stands up in front of you like a big pyramid and just starts draining all this water off the reef and up the face of this thick as fuck double up. And that's when you get "that feeling"! Knowing that if you make the takeoff your gunna be pumped as fuck and buzzing like an ice addict or if you eat shit your in for a fairly decent flogging, hopefully not a snapped board or leggie because its a decent swim back in with deep water either side of the reef. Its been wave of the day on Swellnet a few times but only on the tow days. But that place gives me that feeling like not many other places ive surfed when its big
Barley did you say " buzzing like an ice addict " after a bomb set wave ? FFS ! Thats the worst and wrongest description ever and think you should have to pay a fine or sumthing for that very bad description .
Haha no that was me Caml, first thing that came into my mind. Best mate was hooked on it for a couple years before he went to rehab, kinda similar feeling I think.
No fine will be getting paid here!
Oh sorry barley . GF mate , wrong tho its not a similar feeling
Ok no worries, different for everyone I guess. Wasn't meantvto be taken too seriously either
Crikeeys goofyfoota a joke ! Well i dont like ice & to suggest that crap compares with catching a late drop suck barrell is not ok to say the least . I hereby fine you 20 pushups or $ 50 . But i dont mind if you skip paying fine i do the same haha
Ah yeah not my cup of tea either mate, maybe you can describe it better..
Can I just put the $50 into my gland fund for later this year?
Speaking of g-land, how long were you camping out there for? And what were you doing for food, water etc??