On the bench

Blowin's picture
Blowin started the topic in Sunday, 22 Jun 2014 at 4:39pm

There's no wind . There's waves . Nothing amazing , but nonetheless a clean long period swell is starting to show under a cloudless sky.
It's always sand dependent where I am right now, but the sand , whilst not flawless, is pretty fucken good.
And I'm sidelined. Again.
Injured.
Fuck, it seems like every few weeks there is another physical malfunction to deal with.

Some people would say it is an age thing , but it's always been this way for myself.
Some people work on a four on one off roster. That's how I surf.
Back , knees, back.
I know , I know. Maintenance , strength, core. Have a go son !
The thing is though, till the wheels fall off I always feel 100 percent fighting fit. Never surfed better. Till the next injury....
So It's out of the game for a spell. With no predicted swell there was no obvious hardship . Gentle beach walks are part of the rehab process, but even with no swell on the radar the waves looked pretty damn fun . Grit the teeth and walk on. This is only sustainable for so long, so when the injury itself feels rectified it's harder by the second to stay the course and abstain from that which we love so much. One day before too long the dam bursts - fuck this, I'm out there ! A few waves in and the tide is about to turn a good time into a great time when reality taps firmly on the shoulder... that niggle in your knee is again a pain and it's getting worse by the minute.
So here I sit, not out of the water 24 hours and the usual unrest is starting to raise it's ugly head. Beers seem a real option at 11 AM on what would have to be the most beautiful day of the year.
Instead I watch whales, dolphins and the sweet , sweet ocean serving up all kinds of treats for the able bodied out there.

Please, for me and all the long and short term unable, get out there and reap the harvest of joy that lies only a few metres off the sand for you ,yet a world away for the pitifully disenfranchised such as myself.
Get vertical, pull in , go straight, who gives a fuck .... Please, for me, just get out there.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 22 Jun 2014 at 4:45pm

Sunday bloody sunday

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Sunday, 22 Jun 2014 at 5:39pm

Gold Blowin, hope your not listening to U2 again, cringe that song in my ears, probably from ex girls, young and dumb shit hahaha. No way you've got that tune in my head whilst typing, fuck you :)

Hey the fact is we are not as young and indestructible as we used to be, as well rehab is only for the patient ones IMO. Get a cool little fun dog to walk with along the beach with and it takes your mind off those rippable waves that you mind surf whilst in that realm.
5 weeks for me, went for a paddle last week, paddled around in circles with me still sore little wing, felt like I had a Gigantoraptor arm on one side and a little Raptorex arm on the other. Caught a few goodies but gave up and realised it's still not time yet..............!

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd Sunday, 22 Jun 2014 at 10:07pm

And here I was thinking, nah, I could only wish.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 1:11pm

How do you get injured so much Blowin? You a clumsy prick or what?

I used to get injured quite a bit: shoulders, ankles, knees...anything that moves. Interestingly they were all from training and not from actually surfing. So I just gave up training; no more lifting weight, no more pounding the pavement.

It's worked wonders - no more injuries! I'm a fat prick, no doubt, but cheerily and chubbily injury free.

 

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 1:13pm

Good point stu, only injuries I've ever got are from running or the gym. swimming, yoga & surfing these days and it works a treat

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 1:34pm

Less clumsy, more lazy.
Got a couple of weak points - left knee, lower back - that require constant maintenance . Sometimes that maintenance doesn't happen and the shit hits the fan.
I've also hurt myself training , what a slap in the face that is.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 2:37pm

I had minor surgery last week so couldn't surf on the weekend. Figured I'd still be able to bodysurf, and hey, it's great low impact training, so yesterday I donned the flippers and into the sea I went.

Usually manage a bodysurf or two every week, often by myself but yesterday I swam out to a reef where there were a few stand up surfers rotating around the ledge. Tried to find an entrance into the pecking order, did all the right things: waited my turn, asserted my position, then took off deep. Got mercilessly burned every fucken time. Almost arced up but I quickly got a mental image of what I'd look like: a shrieking half-man writhing clumsily in the soup while able-bodied youth laughed in disdain.

I'll be able to surf again this Wednesday so look out fuckers, this half-man is back.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 3:37pm

Vasectomy Stu ?

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 3:46pm

Classic Stu, In my visual opinion of you Stu, I doubt your a fat cunt, oooops sorry a 'fatprick'.

A: I've seen your board quiver under the full sunlight...? in your garage.....?
B: Ive got some kind of idea how journalists are up all night drinking loads of coffees to keep them awake typing and thinking....?
C: I seen ya at the last quickie pro...?

So yes, I seen a little tummy poking thru there, but hey you are not a 'fat prick', so get that mind thought out of your head.
You still surf great waves, Mum, the kids still love ya, your house still loves ya and the waves hate you.
Cause maybe you just tear them apart ;)

D; Don't go to the gym.
E: Like Floyd said Yoga, Surfing.
F: Happy wife, Happy Life,
G: Paddle paddle, no more flabble...?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 4:13pm

...something like that Udo. And what are you talking about Welly, my house still loves me? The rest of your post made perfect sense but that sentence had me scratchin' my head.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 4:25pm

Classic:)

Is it this.."Cause maybe you just tear them apart", that is the waves Stu, not your loved ones.

Or is it....So yes, I seen a little tummy poking thru there....?

Not sure what sentence Stu, but the funny thing is , it has you scratching your head.

I know now, The waves hate you...?
They love ya mate ;)

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 4:54pm

Is there a gas leak at your house Welly?

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 5:55pm
stunet wrote:

Is there a gas leakĀ at your house Welly?

Gold:)

I checked the BBQ.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 6:22pm

I'm sitting here shaking my head at the attitudes of the young boardriders not giving you any respect when it dawns on me that my mates and myself used to piss ourselves laughing when we used to do the exact same thing as grommets. Our victim was an elderly ( by grommet standards - probably 50 ish years old ) bearded body surfer, back when beards were uber uncool , that wore sluggoes year round.
An obvious target to us. He had no chance of a wave when we were around.
We called him Sea Monster.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 23 Jun 2014 at 7:49pm

Yeah I know Blowin.
Stu sounds like the "Sea Monster"..

wally's picture
wally's picture
wally Tuesday, 24 Jun 2014 at 7:35am
stunet wrote:

Usually manage a bodysurf or two every week, often by myself but yesterday I swam out to a reef where there were a few stand up surfers rotating around the ledge. Tried to find an entrance into the pecking order, did all the right things: waited my turn, asserted my position, then took off deep. Got mercilessly burned every fucken time

Yes, Stu. I've had this experience many times.
It makes me snicker sardonically when I hear short board riders whimper and whine about those rude SUP riders.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 24 Jun 2014 at 8:18am

Reminds me of this sketch by Bill Leak. Unfortunately bodysurfers don't even make it into the picture.

Harmony in the ocean...the_evolution_of_the_surfer.jpg