'perfect waves'

nathanangelakis's picture
nathanangelakis started the topic in Thursday, 24 Jan 2013 at 8:04pm

ok i may be tripping balls here but i dont know if others have come across this (im going to call it a phenomenon) when the waves look very good or perfect from the beach, even when your in the water, but you get out there and the waves break every where but near you, you cant catch a wave, it only happens at beachies, when its offshore (places like parsons)

someone agree with me please to save some embarassment

mundies's picture
mundies's picture
mundies Thursday, 24 Jan 2013 at 8:27pm

Parsons is queen of the middle of the beach hoax bank - you see one and paddle there only to sit and watch em break elsewhere most of the time. You are not tripping balls, you are surfing Parsons. Either end of the beach usually the go.

barley's picture
barley's picture
barley Thursday, 24 Jan 2013 at 10:24pm

The cape is the same.gets heaps of coverage but you are surfing a glorified shorebreak. just have to sift through the closeouts or spend20g's on a ski

mundies's picture
mundies's picture
mundies Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 12:16am

Good point Barley. I am more than prepared to defer to the experts here but my theory is you guys in SA get predominantly long range swell from a fairly narrow swell window (W-SSW max depending on where you are ie less than 90 degrees) resulting in mainly straight swell which favours reefs but is often a pain is the arse for beachies ie good for west coast, good for yorkes as long as not too southerly, but average for the hoax coast victor unless its big enough to light up a very few select spots.
I'm on the north coast NSW where the window is NNE to SSE pretty much (could argue 180 degrees when considering refraction but thats splitting hairs). Plus way more trade wind swells in the mix with longer range swells which break things up on the average day to produce quality beachies. Plus very regular morning offshores. And at certain times of the year all day offshores or at least very southerly with minimum of easterly resulting in points, semi points, and protected spots being crisp. On bigger or straighter swells plenty of options also. There are shit days certainly but consistency is good, and it can get large at most times of the year except for Sept-Oct-Nov usually. I'd like a $20K ski too, but looking at Gemini Thundercats as PWC not allowed at my local. Not in a hurry but keen to get it happening in the next year or so... Not only for bigger days but also long lined days where the peaks are 200m wide and you just want to get on the start of the barreling taper...
Surfed Waits and Parsons a few times over Xmas when visiting family and had one day when it was pumping at Waits mainbreak surfing what the intent was a righthander inside bank but the gold was the outside bank lefthanders. All other days were a paddlefest with shit fat inside rip banks (Waits) or fun but closey and light onshore Parsons looking at the Pages wondering how many sharks were sniffing around....
Maybe I'm getting soft shark-wise, but a few weeks ago a guy got attacked somewhere near Crescent I think and it was big news. Lost a finger and a small part of another finger. Dramatic shots of him on a stretcher with tubes in his nose etc.
I surfed Castles with Worm and Haysey the day before they got done in the 90's, and surfed Cactus the day before that NZ honeymoon guy got snapped in half there then Jevan got done down at Elliston. I'm all for donating 1.5 fingers as opposed to minimum half my torso and my life to a white pointer... Thats my 5 cents worth, or have I gone over?

nathanangelakis's picture
nathanangelakis's picture
nathanangelakis Saturday, 26 Jan 2013 at 10:35am

hahha yeh your exactly right mundies, it was that righthander in the middle of the beach, came in from a surf from the point and was walking up the cliff to look back at the sets just fire off this bank, only one guy was out and he didnt get one wave of the sets, though he just wasnt deep enough, bolted back down to the beach and out to the break to find it was almost impossible to catcha wave

and as for your hypothesis on this mundies, im no forecaster but that sound about right, pretty legit, it also seems pretty due to the presence of rips around the peak as well

toneranger's picture
toneranger's picture
toneranger Monday, 28 Jan 2013 at 7:20pm

right on Nathan! i've been chasing those perfect ends for at a few sketchy beachy breaks on the strenghth of that one perfect day 10 years ago.After walking up the steps of a beachy on the mid a few years ago some guy asked me if i was practising for an iron-man competition.Not always though.My early years surfing beachbreaks we,re mainly at Phillip island and the Vic. East coast.They don't shift there. You could pilot the Queen Mary thru some of those channels.Rock solid!As an Adelaide surfer,God do i miss Woolamai.Not dimissing Waits and parsons,just missing the consistency.the phenomenen is not just confined to surfing.Ever been fishing off a beach when the guy next to you is reeling them in.