Surfing longboards like shortboards
Suppose to be progressive longboarding,what the judges want too see. As for me ,it is all about the glide,a heavy volan glassed 9' 6",chest high and under,a little "A" frame,reef or point break. When it get over that size or I feel like change, I`m on my 6'4".
I guess its just what ever floats your boat, if i could surf a longboard like that id probably have one in my quiver for small days....
yeah benefit getting into waves early, hence getting almost any wave you want, mowing down the pack and paddling back out would be a breeze as long as you dont have to duck dive waves.
Mmmm, it may have some reference back to competitions or the glossy surf media who knows, perhaps you should have asked him Ben. He may have been a great bloke to yarn with. With the exclusions of SUPs and goat boats I generally don't care what people surf and how they surf it so long as they are 1/2 reasonable about it in the line up. I also see so many short boarders pumping and pushing themselves and boards to get the maximum amount of what I call tricks out of waves when a more refined minimalist approach would be far more graceful and mindful. Anyway, that's all I have to say.
Look, I'm surfcraft agnostic but I just find it surprising for people to ride longboards in that kinda way. There are lots of interesting shortboard options available these days that'll give you a similar advantage (ie paddling into waves), but with a much higher performance angle.
Surely, if you're wanting to carve tight in the pocket then riding a longboard is only going to limit your potential? FWIW, I do agree that a lot of shortboarders don't make the most of what's available either - me included.
I was in the ments last year on a boat with a hawaiian longboarder who was absolutely killing it, surfing so critical at maccas and at lances and just styling in the tube, he busted a couple of boards in a couple of waves out at greenbush though, the boards have to be so light to surf them like that they snap real easy. So not economical for the average punter.
Cool guy, he just loved being in the ocean and obviously had bucketloads of natural ability, said he tried cracking the big time for a while on a shortboard to no avail. Surfs everything these days according to what's going to be the most fun and suits the conditions, but when he had the opportunity to make a living out of surfing (a log) he said he jumped at the chance (a living through sponno's not the tiny $$$$ given as prize money mind you).
I don't think there needs to be a point though Ben, when it comes down to it we all just do what makes us happy.
In a word Ben - POWER. At 95kg plus, a 9 footer on the right waves is a revelation, all carve & smooth as a baby's arse ( a little more nose rocker will get you out of the tight spots).Don't have time / inclination to F**k around trying to get waves like when I was 20, and when I do get mine ( as Floyd says - by being 1/2 reasonable in the line -up) I don't want to waste them being bogged down, trying to make sections on a belly board size piece of shit, or give them to some grommet who can surf at 1/2 light speed on a 4'10" !!!!. Also nothing more sublime than laying into a 6' + bomb at Bells with your vintage Klemm - Bell 9'6' - the fun really starts then!!.
Fair enough guys, thanks for your comments. Always good to know the reasoning behind people's choice to ride particular boards in particular waves.
Yeah,I'm with you Ben ,I just dont get it.I must admit I love the look of the old school walking the board and trimming old log style but these modern ultra-light thruster mals allow semi kooks to rule line-ups and leapfrog to the top of the pecking order when by all rights they should be down the bottom.Have you ever stood on one? you have to stand right on the tail like a shortboard only there is about 6feet of useless plank out in front of you to nurse around.BTW I'm not talking about the few who rip on these things just the overall majority.
Saw a guy out in the water this afternoon, surfing a longboard just like a shortboard. Full reos, roundhouse cutbacks, floating over sections, sharp turns in the pocket. Seen quite a few longboarders of this ilk over the years too, but I'm not sure if I understand the point - surely the only benefits are getting into waves a little earlier? Can anyone elaborate?