Board for very specific wave - advice, please.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay started the topic in Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 9:39am

Hello, clever people.

I've taken to surfing a tricky spot which demands a lot of you and you board. Here are some facts/stats:

- 1 to 1.5km paddle offshore
- Harbour sand bar
- BIG lineup/playing field
- Lots of chasing down good waves
- Swirling currents that will drag you 50m from your lineup in no time
- Good ones are super hollow and drain hard off the bank
- Some are less hollow, but super fast and require furious pumping
- Size: shoulder high to solid OH

Me: 58yo and past my prime, but in good paddling shape. 185cm x 80kg.

Board needs to be an excellent paddler, but also nimble and 'spritzy' enough to pump and manoeuvre quickly.

My thought are roughly 6'8-6'10 x 20 1/2 x 2 7/8. Continuous, moderate rocker. 'Gentleman's Gun' sort of thing, but leaning towards paddling, ease, and safety. Quad.

(If it looks big and/or hairy, I'll paddle out on my 8'6 Desert Storm.)

All and any advice gratefully appreciated.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 9:41am

Bump :-)

groundswell's picture
groundswell's picture
groundswell Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 9:46am

A desert storm in the 6'3-6'6 range could be what you're after. not as easy to pump as a shortboard but the smaller ones should be. Good paddlers and easy to catch waves. Built for serious waves.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 9:53am

Hey gs.

I've got a 6'4 DS, but that would feel like a tiny toothpick out there - for me at least. Need more length and volume.

Was planning to try my 6'10 DS out next time, though.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 10:43am

One of those longer Gary McNeil twins or quads would do the trick I reckon.

blackers's picture
blackers's picture
blackers Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 11:56am
lostdoggy wrote:

One of those longer Gary McNeil twins or quads would do the trick I reckon.

Agree.

groundswell's picture
groundswell's picture
groundswell Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 12:56pm

Yeah and with bio flax resin last a very long time..a bit pricey but worth it. look at spending $1450+ for a mini gun with bio-flax resin. Gary's pu/pe boards dont seem to last long though.
I have a Rasta torus twin that hasnt left my ute tray since i got it in april or may, no heat damage and some days up here have been 53'C.No crime here so no need to get it out of the tray.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 1:46pm

7’0” DS ?
Maybe a bit more refined than usual for tube riding?
Sounds like a mental wave IB.

Let us know what you decide on

I focus's picture
I focus's picture
I focus Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 2:10pm

IB your 6'8" sounds close to the mark I have a 7’0 x 20 x 3 1/4 @48.0L Desert Storm made by Webby for a fickle local wave the board handles steep barrels well, loves power and really lights up but I don't rate it as a great paddle board for its size (a little to much rocker not enough width perhaps).

Guys on flatter wider / longer boards double / triple my wave count as the wave take off moves around an area the size of a footy oval but they don't get on rail that often but they do get in early or cover the ground as the sets vary breaking inside to outside.

All this you already know as we age we are all ways trading off performance for paddling in position on the wave same old suck it and see I guess.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 2:19pm
blackers wrote:
lostdoggy wrote:

One of those longer Gary McNeil twins or quads would do the trick I reckon.

Agree.

A bit longer than you mentioned but she's still avail and at a good price
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/palm-beach/surfing/7-8-gary-mcneill-midl...

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Sunday, 9 Jan 2022 at 3:05pm
I focus wrote:

IB your 6'8" sounds close to the mark I have a 7’0 x 20 x 3 1/4 @48.0L Desert Storm made by Webby for a fickle local wave the board handles steep barrels well, loves power and really lights up but I don't rate it as a great paddle board for its size (a little to much rocker not enough width perhaps).

Guys on flatter wider / longer boards double / triple my wave count as the wave take off moves around an area the size of a footy oval but they don't get on rail that often but they do get in early or cover the ground as the sets vary breaking inside to outside.

All this you already know as we age we are all ways trading off performance for paddling in position on the wave same old suck it and see I guess.

This really makes sense to me. I thought I was the only person who didn't think the DS is a paddle machine. I love my 6'10 DS, but do think the paddle power is overrated.

Slightly wider, slightly less rocker, a bit more concave. That's my idea. Wish I could give Andy M's 7'6 Outlaw a go :-)

And thanks everyone for your good ideas.

groundswell's picture
groundswell's picture
groundswell Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 2:13pm

I feel like my 6'0 rasta torus twin paddles better than my 6'6 desert storm. Maybe the flatter rocker and wide outline. Not sure or i could be imagining things.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 4:18pm

Thats exactly why it paddles better - Measure Tail width 12 inches up ....prob 16 + inches ?
And whats width across swallow tips ?

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 5:47pm

Does tail width help a board paddle better?

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 5:48pm

I feel like my ds are paddling beasts. If I’m surfing with mates and I’m on ds I’ll be catching waves much easier than them

groundswell's picture
groundswell's picture
groundswell Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 6:19pm
udo wrote:

Thats exactly why it paddles better - Measure Tail width 12 inches up ....prob 16 + inches ?
And whats width across swallow tips ?

I havent got inches on my tape measure but 300mm up from tail its 385mm and tip to tip its 200mm on the tail.
Goofy my a DS paddles well just seems like my RTT paddles better and is lighter too. ive still got a beer gut even though i dont drink any more and i only eat one small meal a day (weigh 75kg) probably due to my anti psych meds which make my metabolism slow down in my opinion. according to the docs one i was on (zyprexa) is causing the fat and beer gut but ive been on zyprexa since 2003 and only since taking my other meds depot have i developed a beer gut.
Anyway i used to ride 5'8 fishes at g-land and all around indo and south coast NSW while taking zyprexa and surfed alright, now i surf like shit compared to how i used to surf.
I blame clopixol my anti psych med depot injection. Also if i now go to indo for more than 3 weeks i need to find a good doctor to inject my depot every three weeks which kind of sucks. so long trips are out of the question from now on.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 6:55pm
goofyfoot wrote:

Does tail width help a board paddle better?

More surface area
Greater tail area aids in paddling, planing, flotation, and wave catching ability.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 8:54pm

Makes sense udo

markxxx's picture
markxxx's picture
markxxx Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 9:51pm

Also DS’s are vee bottom. My Vee bottom boards never seem to paddle as well. Concave through the guts usually flattens the rocker (along the stringer) which should aid paddling.

I focus's picture
I focus's picture
I focus Wednesday, 12 Jan 2022 at 11:56pm
goofyfoot wrote:

Does tail width help a board paddle better?

Seems to, I have a 6'6" with a wide tail and surf size beyond my limits on it (6ft WA, 10 ft East coast ;-) ) it also has a pretty deep concave running the length of the board a bit of a double at the rear but unlike my 7ft DS you cannot really throw it around on rail in size.

Having said that as a quad it doesn't do anything stupid either, as a thruster have popped it on a bottom turn at the bottom of a bomb a couple of times ( a real pain in the nuts not to mention the hold down , flogging, wash through)

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops Thursday, 13 Jan 2022 at 11:29am
udo wrote:

More surface area
Greater tail area aids in paddling, planing, flotation, and wave catching ability.

But when paddling the board is working as a displacement hull - velocity too low for planing - so buoyancy is the key factor. Surface area does not affect buoyancy, so should not have an impact on how well a board paddles.
100% agree that greater tail area aids in planing though - more wetted surface area = more planing lift (/transition from displacement to planing mode at lower velocity).

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Thursday, 13 Jan 2022 at 11:51am

Thanks Pops ...not my words but pinched from elsewhere
I also watched this recently...around 2:30min tail width / paddling gets mentioned

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Thursday, 13 Jan 2022 at 1:49pm
Pops wrote:
udo wrote:

More surface area
Greater tail area aids in paddling, planing, flotation, and wave catching ability.

But when paddling the board is working as a displacement hull - velocity too low for planing - so buoyancy is the key factor. Surface area does not affect buoyancy, so should not have an impact on how well a board paddles.
100% agree that greater tail area aids in planing though - more wetted surface area = more planing lift (/transition from displacement to planing mode at lower velocity).

You don't have to be at planing speeds for surface area to provide lift. Try dragging a normal door across the water and see how hard it is to press down. The do the same with a log of similar volume.

Alaias would be impossible to catch a wave on if there were no lift below planing speed.

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops Thursday, 13 Jan 2022 at 2:58pm

Sure, there's a region of transition between pure displacement & pure planing modes.
Both of those are kinda fringe cases too, with fairly high wetted-area to volume ratios, so buoyancy becomes less important at lower speeds. Also might even have some surface tension effects? For a board, buoyancy is still the dominant force at paddling speed, so surely that's the area to optimise before looking at planing characteristics for paddling sake? (I.e. better to get the volume dialed for paddling, then the planshape dialled for performance, rather than compromising the planshape for a marginal paddling gain!)

Also, never surfed one but I reckon gravity coming down a wave would be enough to get an alaia planing. Plenty of wetted area there...