Girth vs length
I'm 77 kilos and prefer around 28.5 litres.
Just got a 6'0" at 26.7 and am curious ( read as concerned ) that it may not be adequate. But 2 litres - maybe it's of fuck all consequence.
I understand it comes down to distribution of foam, design etc.
But what is your preference ?
depends
I'm 5'11 and float between 78-80kg. My current 5'11 shortboard is 28L on the dot. My previous shortboard was 27.5L.
My small wave/everyday board is 5'9 at 28.8 and my 6'2 step up is 29L
So I guess I'm similar to you in liking that 28L range.
I understand it depends , Freeride.
But would you be kind enough to expand on your preference ?
depends what I'm riding, where I'm riding it and what shape I'm in.
If the Point is 8-10ft with a 20 knot s'ly and 4kts of current I want a 40l+ desert storm. And I've got one. Bigger and even windier and I'll pull my 9'0" Brewer out of the dust and wash it off. That might be 40 or even 45l.
Around here I like my standard shorties 29-31 litres (i'm 75klicks). In Indo I like shorties with less volume 26-27l.
I like riding smaller wave boards higher volume.
The board that has been in my car the most this horrible horrible summer is a big fat old heavy McCoy lent to my wife. It's 7'2" probably 45litres of volume, weighs as much as a sack of chook food. I can ride nor-east wind chop on it and do turns.
If the point has a clean 6-8ft E swell with not much current I like a foiled out 6'9" that is probably 32l.
I'm 90kg and go between 32 litres for good waves to 37 litres for small waves.
I'm 90kg and go between 32 litres for good waves to 37 litres for small waves.
Sounds like we run along the same lines.
The performance shortboard for better waves was the one I after. 26-27 litres is what I grabbed. Channel Islands semi pro 12".
Anyone ridden one ?
You a coldwater surfer Blowin ? If you have to wear a 4x3 steamer i think you may miss those 2lts.
Haven't worn a wetty for ages but may have to in another few months.
I'd rather fall on the upper edge of volume usually, but I was in a spot and the thing felt so fucking nice under my arm.
I think I'm about 80kg my standard boards about 29-30L Grovel boards 30-31L and my Indo boards a bit less 27-29L
But i really need to loose 5Kg and get fitter.
You must be very fit Blowin 26L is nothing.
6'0" + 18 7/8 + 2 5/16 . 26.7 litres.
Let's hope I'm fit enough, otherwise there will be tears.
Gerry Lopez, one of the greatest surfers ever.
Now check out the size of his board in the opening 0.01 of that video on him surfing Ulus posted today by Stu.
5'10" 78 kegs and I ride a 5'10" that's near enough to 28 litres.
I'm a believer that volume ain't just volume, it's where you put it that counts. Two 28 ltr boards can feel different depending upon where the foam is stored.
I like shorter boards with volume pushed ever so slightly forward, placed under the chest to compensate for length when paddling. Refined rails are key.
A 6'0" with reduced volume is moving in the other direction to my preference.
If you feel your tool of choice is a bit short for you, Blowin - just try shaving around the base and it'll look like you've added an extra inch or two.
I'm 100% on the 'volume ain't volume' call, Stu.
I'm stocky: 5'8'' with weight that floats between 80-85kg and I ride a Lost Sub Buggy 6'0'' with a touch over 28L. Also, due to a fuck up in the initial glassing of the board I bought off the shelf, they built me a custom which has notably heavier glassing but it doesn't seem to affect performance.
Getting it in the right place, which for me is also right under the chest, is really important. (Gary G is gonna have a field day with that one).
As is the transition near the rails (i.e. holding enough but not too much right to the rails)
I live in vicco and surf it almost exclusively from grovelling in right up to 6-8ft Bells. I like understanding a board in a range of conditions so I've got confidence even when pushing it into surf that it's not really designed for (i.e. solid Bells)
I'm 5'10 & 73-75 kgs
At the moment I'm loving a 5'8 x 19 x 2.5
Little swallowtail thing. Anywhere up to 4-5ft.
Then I'm pulling out a 6'2 for anything around 6ft.
Any bigger than that it depends where it is amd what type of wave. I've got a 6'6 and 7'0 for cleanish indo or big clean beachie waves.
Then a 3 inch thick 7'6 for big swell and lots of water moving and when I want to be getting in early to them
Wouldn't have a clue of the volume for any of them, I made a conscious decision not to get concerned about it, i hear so many people just worrying about the volume in their boards and not taking anything else into consideration
I'd rather be a little bit over gunned than under. I ain't no jjf sliding in under the lip late
6'2" x 74 kgs.
ride 5'10" x 23 3/4 x 2 5/8 with volume probably around 38+ litres.
6'3" and 100kg.
Board for 2-5 ft is 6'8", 21 3/4 by 2 7/8.
Around 43 litres, a real fat boy but a transitional board after being OS for years and surfing very little. Would go at least half an inch narrower and 1/16 thinner now.
Board has little rocker and plenty of volume up under the chest.
The 7'2" comes out for 6ft plus days.
Just rode the 6'0" in 4' shifty surf. Sloping faces that moved quickly.
Felt as though I was paddling up a shallow incline and it was as though the waves were moving and I wasn't . But when I got one.....like I was twice the surfer I was on the fucking Matt Hurworth piece of shit I rode for a couple of days.
Might get a 6'5" version for bigger days.
Anyone know why oversized fishy things are harder to drop into pitching or double up type waves?
Is it lack of penetration through the lip or something? I have a few oversized boards now since losing a lot of weight and the thinner boards i have feel easier to drop into steep barrelling waves, especially backhand.
You would think extra paddle power would get you into them easier.
Maybe it comes down to the volume and shape of the rails.
I much prefer refined rails as Stu said.
Thin , knifey rails with meat in the centre of the board.
A flatter rocker means every drop is that bit more critical, wide tails have less hold through the rear, and similarly a fish's parallel rails will struggle to fit into curvy waves.
...and yeah, if it's also got blocky rails - as many fish do - then you have a board that's the polar opposite of what you want at a steep, slabby reef.
Just 'cause Curren can do it doesn't mean we can.
Thanks fellas.
I'm 5'10 73kg
Current board is 5'9, 19 1/4, 2 3/8
Was hard to surf at the start as I wasn't fit enough (same weight though). It's alright now.
Last board was 5'9 19 3/4, 2 1/2. Liked it better.
Think I'm gonna go back to a bit more length, maybe around 5'11, 6'0 for my standard shorty.
I think my traditional standard shorty in the mid 00's was about 6'1, 18 1/4, 2 5/16
Groundswell, you up Kalbarri now ?
Blowin yes i am, nice place here too.Been a not too bad summer for waves either.
Not much work though at the moment.Tourist season has died down.
What work are you into ?
Security tech or electrical trades or nursery hand, also dishpigging and helping out at a golfcoarse. Not much crime in Kalbarri, not enough for security techs lol.
Why not try FIFO up North ?
You got up Bluff/ Gnaraloo yet ?
Im trying to get into fifo, been for a few years but no luck lately. Only chance i had was in catering and nursery work but didnt get it.
Havent been to bluff yet, this year hopefully if my cars running well. Otherwise will go to indo instead i think.
You probably don't speak with a thick enough Irish accent to get a job up North.
Might see you at Bluff....or Indo.
Just a point to remember.
volume in a board is only really important for paddling and catching waves, once up and riding you don't actually need much volume as planning and speed creates lift.
Like how a skim boarder can ride a wave on a thin low volume board or even those boards tow in guys use.
Although i guess you need volume for when you don't have momentum like at the end of a turn or in very small grovel type conditions.
Sounds good blowin will see how things pan out. I agree Indo D. Good point.
Agree with indo. I hate riding a board that is too floaty where it feels you are sitting on top of the wave. I'd prefer to paddle a bit harder and get that knifey feeling when riding rather than bludge in my paddling and sit high in the water. Chunky boards suck IMO
5'11" 78kg. 6'0" and 6'4" are both around 32L. In truth I would like to surf boards with less volume but probably not realistic. I see quite a few surfers on poor equipment. Some real shockers in the short/wide market and lots of bludgers on over sized gear that effectively prevents any real level of performance.
Kudos to you BB.
Always stoked to hear crew dictating their own horizons for performance.
Might sound patronising ,but it's anything of the sort.
I've got way too many mates nursing Brown babies in the car park and crying cause it's too windy / small / messy etc etc
Fuckers have gone 2 years without surfing.....and counting,
"Some real shockers in the short/wide market and lots of bludgers on over sized gear that effectively prevents any real level of performance."
But are they having fun Blindboy?
To be honest I see far more surfers fooling themselves and riding boards way too under-volumed than the other way around.
No deception like self deception.
hey freeride, don't let the cat our of the bag
Fun Andy? This is serious!
I'm not a big believer in volume...how does the denisty of the foam effect volume...what effect does ambient temp have on the blanks when they get blown?
For the record I'm mid 90 KG's and generally ride a 6'2 x 19 3/4 x 3 shorty or a 6'4 x 21 x 3 fish...the rails on the fish are much more refined than the shorty...fish paddles better has a lower rocker
ah rocker/entry plays it part in paddling
So does
bottom shape
foil
fin placement/cant/toe
Age is the other thing to consider when contemplating the right amount of liters in a board.
Date in American?? Submitted by Blowin on Tue, 01/31/2017 - 20:21
Length Vs Girth ?
I've been swapping around a lot lately in waves 3-6 foot and bigger, beautiful waves with lots of power. Different spots : tubes , walls , hollow , flatter faces.
Switching between a variety of boards a 6'4", 6'5" , 6'0" , 6'1" and a 6'2.
Some incredible boards in there , but the sweetest turns are on the longer boards in my view.
The projection , distance covered and my ability to sustain the rail through turns does it for me. The shorter boards feel amazing , but when you set the rail and lean into it on a longer board....sweet Jesus.
Surfing like this wouldn't be possible on a shorter board , I don't believe.
https://m.
Not saying I surf like Curren.
Obviously I've got a lot more flair.
Boom Tish.
56 yo
5-9 76kg
my boards are between 5-8 and 6-4
31 litres - 35 litres
I am liking the combination of a forward foil, bit more volume but refined rails and tail
Now that I've got your attention.....
I realise that this is a divisive subject amongst shapers and the designeratti , but what weight are you and what is the volume of your performance shortboard for better waves ...if you don't mind.