Submitted by ajgsurfing on Mon, 09/05/2016 - 09:23
With my last two boards ,and possibly before that (can't remember that far back), i feel like my front foot is a little bit behind the "accelerator" point of the board and that i feel i need to move it forward to get speed back after a turn or from takeoff rather than just applying weight.
If i do that though it moves my back foot out of the ideal turning position , also if i spread my feet further apart it would feel very awkward. I am mid 40's 70 odd kg and 5'7" , last two boards were 6.0 old flyer and 6.0 chilli rare bird , i can't go any shorter to keep paddling volume i require now older and not as fit 28-29 and now 32-33 . Unless i get a custom.
Is the solution the overall length? rocker ? thickness at different length points? concave?
Great topic mate. There are more learned people here than me that should be able to assist.
First thoughts are that, for a shortboard, 6'0" is a little long relative to your height, and height being relative to leg length and stance would put you out of kilter.
There are many variations on the forward volume shortboard that are designed to be ridden just a few inches larger than your height. Indeed some are meant to be ridden many inches below your height, but considering age it's best to settle for something less extreme.
A forward volume 5'10" can easily have more volume than a 6'0" with only subtle changes to outline and thickness. It can also have advantages for you:
More curve in the outline means you can reduce the rocker which creates a larger front foot sweet spot, and having more volume under the front foot will do the same.
Be interested to hear what others think...
Been looking around lately and seems to me there are a lot of models for shorter boards with lots of volume. Internet search says Chilli rare bird is around the 33 litre volume.
As much as Stu overlikes really short boards, I'm inclined to agree that you will be able to find something a bit shorter that has all the volume you need.
Crazy thought for discussion among those much more knowledgeable - if you are feeling that your front foot is a little behind the accelerator point, doesn't that suggest that you would be better with something with less forward volume, more in the middle and back thirds? If you are behind that point there must be more volume forward! Yes?
I found that the Hypto Krypto just didn't suit my surfing, and after much discussion with people who know about these things and my surfing we came to the conclusion that it was because so much of the volume of the HK is forward. My surfing is much more evenly balanced, neither back foot or front foot, and forward volume requires more front foot surfing to make them work (Feel free everyone to disagree, I'm testing out my own theories here)
So the issue that might be worth considering more is the foil, or foam distribution, and more foam to the middle and back end would bring the acceleration point back further. You can go the same volume or thereabouts. They also paddle better in my opinion, or they do for me!
I'm 72 kgs or thereabouts and mid 50's, riding mostly around the 33 litre volume mark. Simon Anderson's Spud Nick 5'11'' at 33 litres is the best paddling and wave catching board I have had.
Think also about rocker. Too much means harder paddling. I'm much more likely to buy a flat rocker short board, and a touch of of concave can effectively make the rocker even flatter. Too much rocker is hard work though.
Thoughts gentlemen? I'm much further along the curve with what works for me these days. Been going through a few boards in the last 3 years to find what works and try to work out why. This is where I'm up to and I know it is right for ME. Not sure how others are going and interested to hear.
At age 50, For a daily driver for average to good beachies I'm considering either a JS black box 2 , or a Maurice dirty dingo.
Older style outline and more volume but up to the minute rails rocker/ concaves.
Both look pretty tasty.
I'm tossing up between a rusty nail or a blind rivet myself similar dimensions but very different.:)
Hako i thought you'd be more of a rusty trombone man?
I had the same issue with one of Simon's facedancers. I could never quite find that sweet stance so I was shuffling forward for down the line drive and then back to carve. My two cents worth is that it was mainly about the rocker and my old fashioned style. The board could be carved from that forward position but my brain just wouldn't reprogramme itself to do it. I bought an XFC and sold the facedancer yesterday!
batfink , i am thinking the way you are about the whole forward volume boards thing , i feel like i am more a back footed surfer and so much of the board is in front of me instead of under me. The rare bird is only new for me so will see how it goes. Maybe the forward volume style is not for me. It is definitely different.
Interesting blindboy. I've had a couple of face dancers but didn't find that. Sold my previous face dancer just a couple of weeks ago though. It just felt a bit heavy compared to the Spud Nick, and although I didn't find myself missing waves or anything just seemed to require much more energy in paddling. But once up and riding the thing would drive and turn as hard as I could lay it over.
It's a hard lesson to find out that what works for you. I have come to the conclusion that forward volume boards are a pox on humanity, but a shiteload of people like them and go well on them. Had a few very experienced guys tell me that they don't improve your surfing and can tend to make your surfing lazy, not progressing.
Tootr mentions Black Box II. Felt a few of them up on the weekend. Been looking in this space recently and have considered that plus Lost - Mini Driver, Rusty - Magic Thumb, Aido - The Pickup and DHD Monster. I like the look of all of them but none of them appealed, often because of the foil plus the volume and length criteria weren't meeting where I was looking.
But be careful of the issue of foil and forward volume in boards. Of course you can find boards and modify your style and the way you surf, but I've come to the conclusion based on advice from others that you are much better off working out how you surf and finding boards that suit that, and better still why.
BTW, I tend to like to plant my feet and not have to shuffle around to find the sweet spot. If I have to do that the board doesn't suit me. My back foot is on the tail pad but not sitting right on the kicker, and front foot is just relative to that. There's a heap of boards that have worked for me like that, so if it doesn't work after a few surfs it probably isn't going to.
Having said that, shuffling around on different length boards, which I do, always involves a little adjustment.
Remember there are varying degrees of 'forward weighted', not all have to be the overt Hypto Krypto outline. My standard shorty has foam under the chest but you wouldn't know it just from looking at it, the extra volume is minimal and well spread. I think anything that allows you to ride a shorter board without sacrificing paddling ability is a damn good thing.
Freeride have you reviewed any of Big Simons boards ?
dunno if Ive ever ridden a Simon.
think I had a go on an ancient original thruster from the early 80's that my mate had and it went unreal.