Ding repair advice

Bungan33's picture
Bungan33 started the topic in Thursday, 26 Aug 2021 at 1:20pm

Hi all - Been doing my own board repairs all my life - but just started trying to elevate my quality - trying for that professional finish - but stumped as to how you make a repair invisible on a new board. One of the kids knocked my precious JS step up out of the rack and there is a beautiful, clean hole where the corner of a work bench went into it. I am good with layering and finishing - but have no idea how to get a colour match to a pure white board? Any ideas gladly accepted!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 6 Sep 2021 at 6:09am

I could use some help in this department too.

Fliplid's picture
Fliplid's picture
Fliplid Monday, 6 Sep 2021 at 7:00am

Couple of ways Bungan. Probably best would be white pigment, usually can get from a marine chandlers or Shapers and Sanded probably have it. Still difficult to get a perfect match but at least white is the easiest to do. A little bit of pigment goes a long way just add a little at a time.

Qcell will lighten it up but a bit harder to get it to match.

Or can just spray white.

Personally I’d go for the pigment

Bungan33's picture
Bungan33's picture
Bungan33 Tuesday, 7 Sep 2021 at 11:22am

Brilliant - thanks heaps Fliplid. I use Qcell - but last repair it looked great going on and then stood out badly when it had hardened - just not white enough. Ill try the pigment.
I am a bit sus about painting afterwards - memories of old boards with rough patches of post-repair paint jobs. Its the middle of the bottom of the board - so I reckon I would forever have this psychological sense/misbelief of drag!

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 7 Sep 2021 at 11:44am

A repair on an aged board always used to add a touch of yellow paint in the mix
A touch being a third of a match head size or less to 50ml

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Wednesday, 8 Sep 2021 at 8:07pm

Udo has nailed it. Even on apparently super white new boards, if you spray straight white onto the filler coat it sticks out like dogs balls. The tiniest bit of yellow just to make it a barely off white makes all the difference. Of course you need a spray gun/compressor so you can mix and spray. Just lightly spray over the ding, and let feather out, don't tape up. Another tip for matching Protech finishes most commonly on most modern boards is white night crystal clear spray paint in the satin finish, you can get it from Bunnings.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 8 Sep 2021 at 8:18pm

A Dash of Yellow in the Resin.

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Wednesday, 8 Sep 2021 at 8:46pm

I stand corrected udo. Haven't tried the yellow in the resin.

markxxx's picture
markxxx's picture
markxxx Wednesday, 8 Sep 2021 at 9:27pm

I fix all my bigger dings with cloth/resin/hardener/q-cell. I did do a dodgy repair a few years ago using Solar-Rez. Clear looked ugly so after it dried I taped it, sprayed with spray can and wet rubbed it. Turned out ok.

Spuddups's picture
Spuddups's picture
Spuddups Wednesday, 15 Sep 2021 at 5:47pm
tiger wrote:

Udo has nailed it. Even on apparently super white new boards, if you spray straight white onto the filler coat it sticks out like dogs balls. The tiniest bit of yellow just to make it a barely off white makes all the difference. Of course you need a spray gun/compressor so you can mix and spray. Just lightly spray over the ding, and let feather out, don't tape up. Another tip for matching Protech finishes most commonly on most modern boards is white night crystal clear spray paint in the satin finish, you can get it from Bunnings.

I've been using that White Knight stuff to finish my boards for about twenty years. I've tried pretty much everything else out of a spray can and it's the best.