"Then BAM! With full force I fell on my back on the board. The pain was so unbearable that my vision went out and my body went into shock. I quickly lost consciousness and took on water. From that moment on and the next twenty minutes I would be fighting to stay alive."
Bob McTavish chats to Matt George about fins, God, Wayne Lynch, and why Rasta is the man.
Three years ago Jimmy Ulualoha Napeahi was attacked by a tiger shark while surfing on Hawaii’s Big Island. Ulualoha, known as 'Ulu Boy' narrowly survived the attack and now takes a philosophical view of what it meant.
After two years downtime, surfers get back on the Donkey.
“Since I was born, since I’ve known surfing, there’s been Kelly Slater and he’s the most incredible surfer in this world," said Filipe Toledo, "so it’s always good to beat him.”
After a South Pacific jaunt, blindboy takes a sidelong view at Samoa. Blame it on the heat or humidity, or lay it all at the feet of the local root crop, but a straight up surf report this ain't.
North Steyne’s Dayyan Neve has been crowned the 2016 Stowaway Pro Champion. Known to his friends as 'Box Body' due to his chunky frame, Neve used the chunk to his advantage.
The seasons have changed but the winter-style swells keep kicking.
