"I've said for years that if I won Pipeline again, I'm gonna retire right then. I did it and said “I'm fucking done.”"

Never lost, desire merely lies dormant till days like these arise.

Life inside a firehose.

Pull up a pew as Jack talks story at the Byron Bay Surf Festival.

"John's wave is amazing, it could've been a 10. If Kelly hadn't of got the wave straight after it, it would've been a 10."

Ditching the fins at maxing Nazare. Interview and action footage by Tim Bonython.