Help choosing a board
How long have you been surfing for Fletch?
How many times do you surf a week?
Rate your surfing (honestly) from 1- 10.
Hi fletch. I personally think the best board is determined by the waves your surfing. Where abouts are you located? Performance shot boards require waves with more power as well as a higher level of ability due to the need to stay in the pocket. as a fish template 6'2 is sounds to long long for your height to me remember the longer your board the line you need to take whilst turning will be longer as well which may be why your board feels unresponsive in small surf.
I am similar in body size to you and I've been surfing a 5'10 x 19 1/2 quad in anything under shoulder high sometimes bigger and have been loving it as the waves on the sunny coast don't have much power. For perspective I can count the days on one hand that my performance short board has been the ideal choice over the last month.
It's 2 1/2 thick and a swallow tail. I really like the feeling of quads you don't realise how much drag that centre fin on a thruster creates. In my experience you need to take a different approach with the lines but i found it really expanded and helped my surfing!
As for conditions it all comes down to what the board is designed for. Plan shape, concaves they all play a part and for a board to be good all of these small details need to be working together as a whole, fin configuration (quad thruster single etc.) and placement are just one variable.. My board has a very flat bottom (fast) with a very subtle V at the back between the fins exiting at the tail which helps the board to get onto its rail. This bottom shape is good in some conditions but also detrimental in others if you catch my drift.
If I was in your position i would seek out the respected shapers in your area and look at ordering a custom. Guys who have been surfing and shaping in the area thier whole lives generally know what works in thier waves. I'm sure plenty of guys here get boards around that area man there is some sick waves down there haha.. It won't cost anymore it will in fact probably be cheaper but make sure you talk to the shaper himself!!!
I'd speak to a local shaper. Or, if not I'd say drop 2 inch off the length, 1 from the width and stay with the same thickness and outline. If your fitness isnt that great it'll keep you paddling round comfortably, and that drop in dimensions should make the board feel more responsive. Also lots of boards these days seem to come with the plugs for 5 fins so you'd be able to play around with the quad option
Or go to somewhere you can test ride a few boards/models and take note of the litre measurement (volume of foam), once you have a good idea of what litre measurement you are its a good way of double checking if the board will suit you volume wise, although note you will have a variance in litres from say a grovel board to hybrid to high performance short board.
for example i ride
Grovel board= 30L
High performance short board-27L
Although note volume measured in litres is only a good way to double check if the board will suit you in regard to being in correct volume range, you should off course look at lots of other factors as well, length, width thickness, bottom shape, rail shape, overall shape, tail shape, fin set up etc
Hey Indo, someone was talking to me the other day about litre measurement, where do you get this equation or calculation to work out this Ltm.
What would the Ltm for a big fella like Welly be ( 98kgs )?.......
Hey Welly, ride the goldie I'm 92-93 and like 36-40l depending on what waves I'm riding but I am 52 so like a bit more foam and only get to surf 1-2 times a week at the moment. Most new boards have a volume as part of their dims, computer drafting helps with this. Firewires, JR's, Diverse to mention a few
General guide IMHO is 0.36 x your weight in KG, so 98 x 0.36= 36-37l for you HP if you fit and a good surfer
Thanks for that 50young, great info there.
Hello fellow swellnet crew,
I need your help choosing a board.
I am in the market for a new short board but really not too sure what size, width and thickness I need.
I am approx. 6ft tall, 75kgs and size 11 foot.
I currently ride a 6'2" x 20 and 1/4 x 2.5 fish/hybrid shape most of the time however it was a 2nd hand spur of the moment purchase for small waves and I feel I have outgrown this board and need something more responsive.
I am looking at the MG boards and have demo'd the 5'11" Magic Carpet model which was fun and a lot more responsive, however, I'm not 100% sure I should shell out big $ on that exact board.
what I want from the board is more response, more performance etc, something I can throw around, more poppy etc
I do mainly surf waist to head high + waves so not huge waves.
What would you suggest?
Should I go for more of a performance short board or something else entirely different? It's the widths and thicknesses that are really hard to try out.
Any demo sizes I should try?
Thanks for your help