Hit the exposed beaches

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victorian Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Monday 10th October)

Best Days: Today exposed beaches, later afternoon into the evening tomorrow exposed beaches, Wednesday morning exposed beaches, Sunday morning Surf Coast

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Fading swell into tomorrow AM
  • New, fun S/SW swell arriving later tomorrow PM, peaking overnight, easing Wed
  • Mod-fresh N/NE-NE tending variable winds tomorrow, strengthening N/NE Wed
  • Swell bottoming out Thu with weak S/SW tending S/SE winds
  • Building W windswell Fri with strengthening N/NW tending W/NW winds
  • Building mid-period W/SW swell Sat PM with NW tending SW winds, peaking Sun AM with S/SW-SW winds (likely W/NW early on the Surf Coast)

Recap

Poor surf on Saturday with no real size in the morning when conditions were clean on the Surf Coast, building into the later afternoon but with onshore winds.

Yesterday was much better on the Surf Coast with a period of clean conditions and mix of new W/SW and S/SW swells to 3ft on the magnets, bumpy and average to the east.

Today there are more options with light, local offshore winds but smaller, fading surf from 2ft on the Surf Coast and 3ft to the east.

Full options this AM

This week and weekend (Oct 11 - 16)

The coming week isn't overly special swell wise but there should be some fun options on the exposed beaches later tomorrow and Wednesday morning.

The lack of swell will be thanks to a broad, slow moving mid-latitude forming south of Western Australia, pushing slowly east before stalling south of the Bight mid week. This will prevent any significant Southern Ocean frontal systems forming through our swell windows while also sitting too far north to bring any westerly swell at all for our region.

It will bring favourable winds though, moderate to fresh N/NE-NE tomorrow, becoming variable later afternoon and into the evening and then strengthening N/NE on Wednesday.

Swell wise, a healthy polar low should produce a fun pulse of S/SW swell for the exposed beaches later tomorrow, peaking overnight and easing Wednesday morning. A fetch of strong W/SW winds were and are still being generated south-southwest of Tasmania around the low, with bursts of stronger gales in the mix.

Ahead of the swell tomorrow the Surf Coast looks tiny and to 1-1.5ft with 2ft sets to the east, with the new swell building to 2-3ft and 4ft respectively later in the day. Wednesday morning should ease from a similar size (3-4ft to the east) but get in early before it drops.

There isn't expected to be much swell left into Thursday and a trough will bring a shallow S/SW tending S/SE change, a lay day.

Come Friday the low will start edging in across us, bringing strengthening N/NW tending W/NW winds along with a building, weak W/SW windswell. No major size is due with a 2ft wave due into the afternoon on the Surf Coast, windy and poor to 4ft to the east but this will be the precursor to a flurry of stronger storm activity.

The models diverge a little on the strength and timing but behind the slow moving mid-latitude low we're due to see a stronger front/low pushing in on the weekend, bringing a new moderate sized W/SW swell for Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning. NW tending SW winds are expected on the former with average conditions as the swell builds, likely cleaner Sunday morning with a light W/NW offshore on the Surf Coast but lingering S/SW-SW winds to the east. The Surf Coast should reach 3-4ft with 6ft sets to the east at the peak of the swell.

Patchier frontal systems look to follow up the weekend's front, bringing further moderate sized pulses of swell next week along with winds out of the north-western quadrant. More on this in the coming updates.

Comments

Standingleft's picture
Standingleft's picture
Standingleft Monday, 10 Oct 2022 at 2:21pm

Anyone on the PI wanna give the woolies cam a wipe down for us?

blackers's picture
blackers's picture
blackers Monday, 10 Oct 2022 at 9:50pm

Send Indo around.

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Monday, 10 Oct 2022 at 9:42pm

Herald Sun is reporting that someone is suing Urbnsurf for allegedly breaking their neck there.

icandig's picture
icandig's picture
icandig Monday, 10 Oct 2022 at 10:21pm

The article quotes Swellnet and Stu.

One article written by Stu Nettle on Swellnet Dispatch – a news and discussion forum for surfers – details knee deep water and the risk of colliding with concrete surfaces.

“ … everything happens in close proximity,” it reads. “Wave action butts you up against the chain link fence on one side or the concrete wall on the other, while a wipe-out places you in the impact zone where it’s too shallow to duckdive and there’s someone steaming through on the very next wave, and the one after that, and the one after that.”

It continues: “The first time you hit bottom is a shock. It’s hard concrete and maybe thigh deep where the lip hits. Fall on take off and you’re trying to find a place to hide in knee deep water as the lip of the next wave pitches and the rider and board pass overhead.”

https://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/victoria/ocean-grove-man-sues-urbnsurf...

Might be behind a paywall.

Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a lon... Tuesday, 11 Oct 2022 at 9:27am

I went to try out Urban Surf before the two plus years of lockdowns in Melbourne. I immediately realized all of the listed hazards and the steeper than I was accustomed to pitch of the waves made for a hour of wipeouts on the post beginner level session I had booked.
The chance of being flogged against the concrete wall or floor or having one of your boards properly damaged and/ or a collision with another surfer made for an less than satisfactory session.Being a super kook does n't help either!!
I have not been back since and will wait for La Nina to FO and for good autumn surf to return to my preferred surf spots and let Mother Nature give me some surf there..

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 11 Oct 2022 at 9:36am

Today and tomorrow are nice for the beaches Mr. T. To dodge the size this morning and tomorrow arvo are the go.

Standingleft's picture
Standingleft's picture
Standingleft Wednesday, 12 Oct 2022 at 5:53pm

yyyyeeeewwww