Great waves continue: plenty of east swell, and a solid pulse from the south too

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 15th February)

Best Days: Great waves almost every day. We're looking at fresh S'ly winds reaching the Mid North Coast later Tues, and occupying all coasts Wed (so, you'll need to aim for the points), but other than that we should see light variable winds and sea breezes Tues/Thurs/Fri and maybe Sat. Plenty of east swell each and every day plus a solid S'ly swell Thurs/Fri in Northern NSW. And plenty of easterly swell Sun thru' mid-next week

Recap: I’m pretty happy with Friday’s forecast, with most regions coming in very close to expectations. We did see a small increase in trade swell throughout Saturday, with SE Qld beaches building from 3ft to 3-4ft, but wave heights were smaller south of Ballina. Surf size then eased from Sunday morning down by a foot or so into the afternoon. Winds were moderate to fresh out of the S/SE all weekend but periods of lighter S/SW winds were observed early mornings at a few locations. A new E/NE swell associated with TC Tatiana then arrived overnight Sunday, producing clean 3-5ft surf across the Sunshine Coast and 3-4ft surf on the Gold Coast today, with again smaller wave heights as you travelled further south from Ballina. Winds were light SW early morning in most areas but have swung fresh S thru’ SE this afternoon, confining the best waves to the various regional outer points. 

This week (Feb 16th - 19th)

So, TC Tatiana has come and gone. It weakened over the weekend, and although still looks good on the synoptic analysis, the strongest winds are on its western flank aimed straight up towards PNG. So, wave heights are expected to ease slowly overnight and through Tuesday from this source.

However, we won’t see that much of a drop in size on Tuesday.

Further east in our swell window, TC Winston developed quite impressively over the weekend, displaying up to 60-70kts within a considerable width around its core, reaching Cat 3 but since weakening to Cat 2.

Unfortunately, these winds were located on Winston’s south-west (aimed towards Vanuatu) and north-east (aimed towards New Zealand) flanks. Winston’s southerly then south-east track was also unfavourably aligned for East Coast swell potential - originating from its core - so I have generally discounted these primary fetches for most of these forecast notes.

That being said, as TC Winston tracked south, it ridged up against a strong Tasman high, broadening an impressive 30-35kt fetch in the north-eastern Tasman Sea. This is generating a strong renewal of easterly trade swell that will fill in from Tuesday onwards, and then continue to provide waves all the way through until probably next week.

The only downside with this fetch is that TC Winston has slowly tracked eastwards over the last few days, away from the coast, and is expected to pinball its way between Tonga, Fiji and up towards Samoa over the coming days.

Ordinarily, such a forecast track would be very detrimental to our surf prospects, however in this case TC Winston is moving a little more slowly than most South Pacific Tropical cyclones do, following a poleward trajectory. Additionally, there has been a decent easterly feeder-fetch east of TC Winston for the last few days, helping to develop the sea state before the strongest fetch has arrived.

So, the long and short of it is that we can expect TC Winston to provide some form of useful surf from Tuesday through until next Monday or Tuesday at least. As TC Winston travels further away from the mainland, the swell it generates will become smaller and less consistent at the coast, but some of the long range models are suggesting a southerly then westerly recurve later this week (out near Samoa), along with a further intensification that could actually bring about some signifiant long period energy to our shores early next week. We’ll need a few more days to firm up these thoughts now.

As for surf size, we’ll see steadily re-building E’ly swell on Tuesday - probably 2-3ft early, building to 3-5ft by late afternoon, but starting off much smaller south of Ballina to begin with (note: confidence is not high on the timing of this increase - I'll update in the notes below throughout the day as observations come to hand).

At this stage it looks like we'll see a broad plateau of wave heights through Wednesday around 3-5ft range at exposed beaches, with smaller surf running down the points. Expect a little less size through Thursday and Friday (3-4ft), and a little less consistency too.

I do need to however reiterate that this swell will be much less consistent than the usual trade swell events, because the head of the fetch was located east of New Caledonia. But due to the more distant swell source and the broad nature of the fetch, I think we’ll see a more uniform distribution of size between the Sunshine Coast and the Mid North Coast, compared to recent swells that have favoured mainly SE Qld and Far Northern NSW.

The other good news is that we have a deep Southern Ocean Low expected to push through the lower Tasman Sea on Tuesday, and it’s expected undergo several transformations through the middle of the week as it slowly migrates towards New Zealand’s South Island. This should deliver around three days of decent south swell to the East Coast, though I don’t think we’ll see much size in SE Qld due to the swell direction - it'll likely be much smaller than the pre-existing E'ly swell. 

South facing beaches in Northern NSW should pick up strong 4-5ft sets from this swell on Thursday morning, in fact some of the more reliable swell magnet should nudge 6ft at times. Surf size will probably ease slowly into throughout Friday before a second pulse pushes through for the weekend.

As for winds - it’s almost as complex as the surf outlook. A weak high will move in across the region on Tuesday, delivering light winds and sea breezes to most regions (though a lingering S/SE flow associated with ex-TC Tatiana may occupy the Sunshine Coast early morning). 

A moderate southerly change is due into the Mid North Coast on Tuesday afternoon, and will extend northwards overnight, providing moderate to fresh S/SE winds through Wednesday, however we should see periods of early SW winds in many locations. South facing beaches in Northern NSW should also see building southerly windswells through Wednesday though no great quality is expected - you'll be better off targeting the easterly swell which should be peaking by this time.

Light variable winds and sea breezes are then expected for Thursday and Friday, so the open beaches should have excellent options as we see a lovely combo of east and south swells and clean conditions across the beaches in the mornings.

This weekend (Feb 20th - 21st)

Plenty of swell for the weekend.

Inconsistent long range E’ly trade swell from TC Winston should provide most open beaches with infrequent 3ft sets on Saturday easing to 2-3ft on Sunday, though there will be considerable breaks between the bigger waves. 

A second intensification of the Southern Ocean low around Thursday - by this time, near New Zealand’s South Island - should provide a smaller but fun pulse of S/SE swell to Northern NSW’s south swell magnets on Saturday, probably around 3ft+, and likely to ease rapidly into Sunday

And, a developing ridge through the south-eastern Coral Sea from Friday onwards should kick up some short range SE trade swell for Sunday, nothing special but perhaps some peaky 3ft sets in the mix on the Sunshine Coast, 2-3ft on the Gold Coast and smaller as you work your way south of the border.

As for winds, early indications are that the building ridge will influence SE Qld and Far Northern NSW with moderate to fresh SE breezes on Saturday and Sunday (following a decent period of SW winds Saturday morning; more brief Sunday morning). So, apart from Saturday morning it looks like a weekend best suited to the outer points. Again! 

South of about Yamba or thereabouts, winds should trend more light and variable with afternoon sea breezes. Let’s see how Wednesday’s model guidance is shaping up.

Next week (Feb 22nd onwards)

The only swell generating potential for next week revolves around the Coral Sea ridge - which doesn’t suggest much more than a bog standard seasonal trade swell for SE Qld and Far Northern NSW - plus some long range, long period E’ly swell from TC Winston.  

But that’s heavily dependent on exactly what the cyclone does over the coming days, and is therefore a very low percentage game right now.

It's also worth noting for the weather junkies that a deep mid-latitude low well south-east of Tahiti later this week may kick up some tiny long period E/SE swell for SE Qld mid-late next week, but in the mix it's hardly worth worrying about.

Either way, we’ve got at least another week and half of great waves across the coast. So no whinging, y’hear?

Comments

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 6:14pm

In short: I've thrown a couple of 3-5ft calls in there just to keep the regulars happy :D

Britabroad's picture
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Britabroad Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 6:32pm

Haha :D

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 12:10pm

Bahahaha..... That does make me happy..... But really it should be 2 to 5 foot..... There will be 2 footers out there bahahahaha.....

Re' your question in the last thread; "As an example, the Gold Coast and Mooloolaba buoys are recording very similar swell heights/periods. But the Gold Coast is only 3-4ft - and pretty inconsistent at that - so why are you calling the Sunny Coast 5ft+?"

You know, over the past ten years, surf forecasting and calling has become incredibly scientific, until the actual waves break, then it descends back into silliness.... People used to measure by the back of the wave, until places like Chopes that basically have no back started being surfed..... What does one call a chopes wave with a 2 foot back and a 12 foot face? 2 foot? 12 foot? 6 foot? 12 divided by 2 = 6?? I don't fuckn know lol.... No wonder some in the non surfing community think a lot of surfers are douches.... surfer -"Yah maan, was at snapper and it was like a solid 3 foot and perfect... I got soooo barreled but it chandeliered and I got axed"..... Non surfer - You got barreled on a 3 foot wave?? Are you a fucking midget? Chandeliered?? Axed? You're a douche, mate"......... Bahahahaha

Anyhooooo, back to your question... Gold coast and m/bah (and straddie) did not have "very similar" swell heights.... Well.... it depends on your take of what "very similar" is i suppose..... The goldy JUST scraped up to the 2m mark, for about an hour, around lunchtime, and I mean JUST scraped;

Now, M/bah was pretty consistently well over 2 metres from 5am right through to 6pm.... Between the 11am mark and 3pm, Sig' was around 2.25 to 2.3m....That's about 7 1/2 feet in the old scale....

So you tell me, ben.... Scientifically speaking, a 4 hour sesh of 7.5 foot swell..... What does that equate to? Considering max wave heights during that time were pushing 3.5 to 4m, I'd equate that to 5 foot, with the odd bomb..... I could call it 4 foot, but my penis wont get any bigger.... I have tried that..... I doesn't work...... :p

And here's straddie... Consistently around 2.25m from 4am to 4pm..... But as i said earlier, "very similar" means different things to different people.....

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 12:26pm

SD, Brisbane buoy can't be correlated against the nearshore buoys of the Gold Coast and M'Bah, as it is always much higher, being in a slightly different environment (much more exposed). It often produces nearly double the wave heights that the other SE Qld buoys are recording, but that doesn't have a bearing on wave heights in any one region.

sharkshit's picture
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sharkshit Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 12:45pm

You can't argue with dawg as it doesn't matter what the subject, he's never, ever, wrong

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 1:11pm

Wasn't arguing, shit stain.... ben asked me a question.. I was answering it

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 12:48pm

Fair point re' Straddie..... But still, what would you call consistent waves on a M/bah sig' graph that are 7.5 feet?

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 1:01pm

SD, that's a ridiclous question. As I have stated many times before, specific wave height data from the buoy doesn't necessarily mean anything. Right around the country, I've surfed 4ft waves when the local buoy has been reporting Hsig values of 1m, and also when it's reported Hsig values of 4m. There is not always a direct corelation between the buoy's Hsig, and surf size at the beach.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 1:09pm

Hmmmm. Ok... lol....

bevankoopman's picture
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bevankoopman Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 4:35pm

I curious to know why there is not a direct correlation between wave buoy height and size at the beach (noting that you way correlation not equivalence). Thanks.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 5:03pm

Swell direction and period have an equal bearing on the size (and quality) of the surf, as much as wave height. 

Swell buoys also record parameters that do not account for multiple swell trains - so you don't know if the 2m Hsig you are seeing at the buoy consists of one pure groundswell (from one direction) or multiple swells from several directions.

They certainly give a good bearing on the overall trend, but my comment above was pointing out the flaw in SD's claim that a particular size at the buoy should equate to a particular size in the surf zone.

bevankoopman's picture
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bevankoopman Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 9:40pm

Makes sense; thanks for the explanation.

So I'm wondering if you could train a regression model from retrospective size and period data from multiple wave buoys in order to predict the size in the surf zone (for a particular region of course). Or maybe even include wind and tide as features to predict the x/10 score from your "observed" spots :-). Or is this basically what you are doing already. If not, I think it might be fun to see the results.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 9:48pm

I started an Honours project on that very idea around 12 years ago. Never got to finish it though.

I think there's more merit in extracting real time spectral data from wave buoys and using that information as a baseline. There's a lot more data hidden within the data that we haven't quite figured out yet.

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 10:33pm

E.g. off the graph by eye, you can look at the difference between Tp and Tz to estimate amount of wind vs groundswell...

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 7:04am

That doesn't always work. It can work if you're using Tsig (not Tz) but even then it's not a sure bet.

Spectral bouy data would make it a lot easier.

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 1:29pm

Hmmmm, yeah all I'm going off is basically the generalisation that the greater the period the greater the distance and the greater the inconsistency. That could easily be applied

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 1:32pm

How is that measure in period data though?

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 6:10pm

Distance is not, but I think it's a fair assumption. 17+ sec I've only seen come from below Tassie, plenty of 14ish sec swells come from between NZ & New Cal. I find it one of many helpful little rules of thumb. E.g. when you're expecting a S'ly ground, and pre frontal N'lies. A drop in Tsig can show you when the windswell picked up. Then it might go back up at night...

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 6:34pm

Tz is affected by wind contamination. Tsig is not available on Qld buoys, only NSW.

Swell period is directly related to core wind speeds. You just don't see it often in Qld because swells with these characteristics are generated outside of our swell windows. Does happen sometimes though (may see it with this upcoming episode from TC Winston, next week). 

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 6:45pm

What do you mean by 'it' that we might see?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 6:48pm

Large Tp.

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 7:01pm

I'll just have to wait and show you what I mean I think :/

donweather's picture
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donweather Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 1:30pm

This is more so in a S'ly swell Ben....not so in more of an E'ly swell.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 2:11pm

And why use the buoy data to compare "surf size" between goldy and sunny coast? if one can refer to the buoy data to substantiate a "3 to 4 foot" call,,,,, ahh forget it lol....
Interesting that further down this page, Staitey reckons it was solid 4 foot on the tweed this morning.... Tweed buoy that Ben posted shows 1.6m at the time..... Yet I get questioned calling 5 foot with an east swell reading at 2.25m....... It shows the absurdity of calling wave size.... I'll leave it at that lol
Anyway have you got a few, Donny?

staitey's picture
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staitey Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 3:19pm

.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 5:06pm

The difference is related to the swell period.

One of several examples why Hsig at the buoy doesn't always equate to a particular surf size at the beach.

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 6:17pm

And you reckon your no good at fishing Ben. Hold on tight mate :)

fitzroy-21's picture
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fitzroy-21 Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 6:31pm

Wind still around 10kts here and starting to get a little arvo E in it. Still in the 4' with the odd 5'er, nice clean lines. A bit better than yesterday arvo, fractionally smaller

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 6:32pm

3-5 is just a very close approximation of reality for a lot of surf on the east coast, notably beefed up tradewind swells where's there's lots of differing wave heights in the mix.
It's beefy and robust but falls short of calling 6ft, which is a nother level up.

Anyhow, the feast continues.

Dibbley's picture
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Dibbley Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 7:34pm

Cheers Ben!
Only downside of this swell was creasing my new stick this arvo...bugger.

linez's picture
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linez Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 7:44pm

Busy tomorrow morning, only hope the wind holds off for the arvo.

the chase's picture
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the chase Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 9:28pm

Well played hahaha.

no-eye-deer's picture
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no-eye-deer Monday, 15 Feb 2016 at 9:40pm

I'm not even bummed that i cant get in the water the next couple of days, between the last few days and whats still to come, its all good!

It really has been an unbelievable summer for swell, and we've still got March-May yet to come.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 7:53am

Looks like the new E'ly swell is kicking in, it's already stronger (on the cams) than it appeared at dawn.

And here's the culprit: new long period energy at 13.5 seconds. Expect a slow building trend all day.

Gawd, what a fantastic summer it's been.

donweather's picture
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donweather Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 8:04am

A little later than I was expecting but nice to see it finally arrive.

simba's picture
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simba Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 9:35am

Amazing what a few hours makes,swell has really muscled up but so has the wind nnw going n.

staitey's picture
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staitey Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 10:23am

Good 4 foot on a tweed coast beachie this morning, some great barrels between the close outs. What Ben said……this would have to be the most consistent summer I can remember!

mick-free's picture
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mick-free Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 4:04pm

So got my FOMO on. First Hawaii and now QLD going ham. Well played Ben moving north...

bevankoopman's picture
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bevankoopman Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 4:36pm

I think I've forgotten what a beach break even looks like these days!

Umunga's picture
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Umunga Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 5:40pm

Hmmm just got out from a gay break which I said I'd never surf again but I did !
Anyway maybe 3 ft of weak dribble my gramma packs a bigger punch !
So nothing much happening here yet what I've seen but I didn't check my normal haunts (normally not good on this wind direction)
So far last Saturday has had the most power so far .

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 7:33pm

I felt a vibe today.

"Hi guys
Close encounter with a juvenile great white today at boulders beach, south of Lennox head. There was baitfish in the water. Shark came from below, I saw the shadow and moved, shark breached and then followed me into the waters edge( as seen from a couple of guys on the headland..I didn't see this but as I was paddling like crazy) size was approximately 8 feet, definitely a white as I saw the coloration along its flank. Encounter happened at approximately 3:30pm Tuesday 16th February"

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 9:23pm

Where did you get that info from Freeride ?

wingnut2443's picture
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wingnut2443 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 1:07am

Not sure if it's FR's source, but, same report, word for word here:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Shark-Reports/716586421776202

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 6:12am

Ballina Shark Reports. As Wingy said.

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 12:30am

Thanks for the report FR.

roubydouby's picture
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roubydouby Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 7:48pm

No way Coffs was 2-3 as per the arvo report. Def 4-6 at diggers, as attested to by my two new mini surfboards :(

simba's picture
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simba Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 8:35pm

yeah total under call at 2-3........ene swell 4ft +

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 9:18pm

Wow.. So bigger than my 3-5ft forecast?

roubydouby's picture
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roubydouby Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 9:31pm

I reckon 3-5 is pretty accurate, just with 6 ft bomb sets every 15 mins or so.
Be interested to hear some other people's verdicts, what with the subjective nature of it and all.

Roystein's picture
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Roystein Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 8:23pm

Still a nice fetch of easterly gales out between 180E and 165W.

Craig's picture
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Craig Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 9:20pm

Wow, next week's forecasts :o

donweather's picture
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donweather Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 8:09am

Winston certainly ain't dead yet. Fiji might be getting just a tad fecking worried right now!!!

One question I have. This year the majority of the TCs in the SPCZ appear to remain in that quadrant for a long time compared to previous years. Previously the majority of them get whisked away to the graveyard. But not soo much this year. Why's that? El Niño doing something with the upper winds?

the chase's picture
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the chase Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 10:28pm

It sure is Craig. Its Bit early for the sh*t fight to start about the size where looking at yet maybe not SD hahaha

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Tuesday, 16 Feb 2016 at 11:47pm

You'll keep, chase.... You'll keep..... ;)

Btw, I was saying how good these swells would've been back in the "old days" when kirra was real kirra - with big and little groyne in place, the hut etc.... Some genius reckoned the recent re extension of the big groyne has gotten kirra back to it's old self..... Well I had a look at a certain cam, and there's a bloody football oval sized beach and a lagoon in front of the old hut sight..... "Old kirra" my left nut.... Needs a major early 70s like storm to decimate the whole thing....

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wellymon Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 12:32am

Wanda ;)

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 6:15am

Just to take the bait, I think some genius also called this last swell as a Kirra swell, with those famous step-ladder sets we couldn't see because the surf was too big.

Old kirra depends on how far back you go. It's been through many iterations, well documented on here. Pre-groynes the left off the bait reef was the premier wave. Thats Old kirra to a lot of old salts in the area.

Re-extending the Big Groyne has certainly changed the angle of the bank, reduced beach width along Kirra Point and bought the wave back closer to where it was prior to it getting swamped by the twin hammer blows of the Groyne being shortened and the sand pumping from the TRESBP. It's still not what we'd know as "classic" Kirra with the Butterbox section ........and it may never get there again but there's no doubt the groyne re-extension has helped restore wave amenity.

Sure was nice yesterday as that longer period swell filled in. Heaps better than the shorter range ENE stuff Mon. 3-5? I think that was spot on. It probably built to that by mid-morning though, not afternoon.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 11:47am

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.................. Shit...... Glad I loosened the reel ;) Steven Dory's are delicious!!!! :p

Hope you've been getting a few steve...... BTW yesterday down here was big..... But that's another story.
Firstly, you have been looking at bens Greenmount surf cam, yeah, when it scans around to big groyne? Or have you blasphemously checked an opposition cam? Looks like a fair crew to me... Looked like a fair crew during the tats swell.... Dunno about whoever said kirra was flat.... Now today, i just saw a pretty decent set pump through.... But it aint "kirra' 78, or " 90s kirra pro".. 1990s kirra at 4 foot was something to behold, and I'm sure you surfed it... One of the best small sand bottomed barrels in the world........... So this has been kirra swell.... e to ene.... 4 foot to 6 foot.... No doubt....

Btw, i can see why no one here ever admits being wrong... Often wondered about that.... I publicly admitted I under estimated the sunday trade swell... Said I was wrong... But you can't let it go, steve... So I dont think I'll admit being wrong again... I'll just do what you do, throw barbs, or go missing for a day or 2.... Stirring ya man....
In regards to the "afternoon/evening" step ladder sets re' tats..... Ben posted the buoy graph for down near your way (tweed) just above for sunday... Now last time I checked the dictionary, the definition of evening - "the period of time at the end of the day, usually from about 6 p.m. to bedtime."
Here's the graph again..... What do you see between around 6pm and 10 pm on the sig height? I've circled it in purple for your viewing enjoyment lol..... Then what do you see between around 6 pm and midnight? I see a very healthy increase... 1.2m up to 2m..... Over a six hour period... So even taking into account the larger than expected trade swell size during sunday lunch/arvo, that's still a heck of a jump - 50% gross over 6 hours to be exact.. For your piece of mind, mate, i wont ever use "stepladder" again... I'll use simba's "muscled up"...

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jimbrown Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 9:00am

I forget which thread it was, but there was recently discussion about what factors go into creating larger swell periods. I'm curious: given a longer swell period is the function of both stronger winds and distance from source, what influences consistency? As I understand it, the surf becomes more inconsistent as the distance to the storm increases. What would make 14, 16 + second swells that are also consistent?

Craig's picture
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Craig Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 10:31am

Jim consistency is related to the distance between where the swell was created and your coast. The further away, the less consistent.

If the storm is only 500-1,000kms and away off the coast and really strong you can get a consistent 14, 16+ second swell.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 10:21am

Pumping this morning... Perfect conditions and solid sets in the 3-4ft+ range (biggest bombs were a little bigger than 4ft but not quite 5ft in my books). Such a perfectly lined up groundswell though and some amazing sections at times. I'm buggered!

lostdoggy's picture
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lostdoggy Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 10:40am

That's how I would describe where I surfed too, Ben.
There was one single wave set that would've been close to dbl the rest of the sets though. Broke far enough out that it was easy enough to duckdive by the time it reached the pack. Way out. :)

donweather's picture
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donweather Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 11:28am

Sorry, what's 3-4ft+? I've only read 3-5ft on here before!!! ;)

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 11:31am

Haha!

Today is a good point in example. If I'd called 3-4ft, I would have considered it an undercall compared to what eventuated. 

But by the same example, I think 4-5ft is a slight overcall. 

So this is where 3-5ft sits in nicely - a little bigger than 3-4ft but a little smaller than 4-5ft. 

I know it's pedantic, but during these extended periods of easterly swell where wave heights often sit somewhere just overhead for lengthy durations, it's important to be able to slightly distinguish between them all.

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lom Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:40pm

So, should we be confused by this- http://www.swellnet.com/reports/australia/new-south-wales/eastern-beaches - a 3/4' swell with 3'(to 5') bombs, or should we take it as 3/4' with 5' bombs and leave the 3' bombs out all together??

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:47pm

Well, you also have to take into account human variability. We've got thirty reporters around the country and they each have their own interpretations as to how the surf is (no matter how much we guide them).

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 10:37am

Big green walls.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 12:02pm

It was a bit square on where I was....but three guys out was hard to resist.

I was sure it was 3-4ft and with the power still turned up....but what to call those bigger sets?
Fuck it, 3-5 again.

Oh yeah, feet up in between sets, apparently that juvey white really wanted a piece of that bloke yesterday. Much, much safer up in QLD with the nets and drumlines, no joke.

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 12:38pm

Is this still a 'QLD swell event' Freeride, or are we in a different swell event now? Just jokes... everything seems a bit serious around here atm.

Definitely squared up today, and running a lot faster. Greenmount stretch seemed to be the pick and looked unreal on the cams.

Funnily enough, I checked my local this morning and saw a lot of 2 foot waves being surfed (due to the crowd and less consistency, they were going for anything they could find) and then every now and then a macking 5 foot set would come through. Does this make it 2-5 foot? Might have to add that into the dropdown menu, Ben.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 12:41pm

1-6ft should over it nicely, I reckon.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 1:57pm

Now we're talking!!!

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:59pm

Still some nice ones to choose from the morning and the crowd factor was good.

staitey's picture
staitey's picture
staitey Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 12:29pm

Solid 4 foot + where I surfed. Yesterday many great makable waves. Due to that extra energy bit straighter and more closed out this morning. Still no crowds, offshore, can't complain.

Booka78's picture
Booka78's picture
Booka78 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 1:22pm

Been surfing Burleigh last 3 mornings, some great long barrels coming through with some late drops to get into them.....the crowd has been full on though so hard to get the bigger waves hoping the wind might lay off a bit tomorrow morning so the open beaches are surfable on the north end. Checked mainy this morning & was windy + a bit straight

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 1:25pm

Lordy, lordy.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:38pm

Fuck that. I'll take my onshore Rye beachies with no one out over that anyday

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 1:48pm

I Just got back from surfing snapper. I haven't surf the place in nearly a year now but with not to many other opinions around me and mate thought we would give it a go. I fully expected a crowd there. And there was 100 plus i guess. Seating in the lineup with people every where shoulder to shoulder and there is fecking kayaks surfing on waves wtf!!! thats seriously dangerous and have no place to be there imo. Sup every where also will not be going back any time soon.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 1:52pm

Thanks Chase..... it's hard not to get sucked in.....I keep hearing about the inside section..
happy enough here though.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:00pm

I'm just stoked I kept the office south of the border. Haven't surfed once in Queensland since I've been here.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:07pm

Ahhhheem.....nothing to see here....move on!!!

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:33pm

Has anyone had any reports over these swells re' a certain mystical wave at a certain place that takes effort to get to....

yes.... edited due to butthurt requests

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:21pm

Subtle as a sledgehammer, SD

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:23pm

Like!

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:37pm

Should do some googling kaiser chief..... The REAL locals are screaming for visitors..... I wont say why, coz more butt hurt will be unleashed.... If I said why, that'd be even more of a give away where...... But needless to say, those who go up there aren't the real locals..... Speak to them..... Cheers...

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:45pm

Ha Ha it's cool Sheepy. I just didn't know if you were actually trying to allude to the spot without giving it away. If you were, I hope you're not working for the Resistence, otherwise we're fucked.

I dare say that spot is easily as sharky as Freeride's locale, and the mission to get there will naturally keep a lid on numbers.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:55pm

I know someone with a holiday house up that way..... Had some ripper times..... Wish they were there atm...... I'd get the goss lol....... Yeah freekn sharky...... Real sharky......

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 3:25pm

Up there late last year, clearest of water, and then every now and then a black shape out the back of the lineup..

50young's picture
50young's picture
50young Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:21pm

ha ha not as criptic as usual Sheepy

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 2:52pm

Surely, surely surely with this glut of surf the Quikpro is on track to get skunked.

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 6:01pm

Geez I hope so, just quietly...

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 3:12pm

btw, Winston is going pretty fucking mental out there.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 3:22pm

Speaking of mental, and totally off topic, what about that "thing" wsw of South America!!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 6:34pm
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 8:19pm

Look Ben, you should have been at the office WAY earlier today ... you'd have had the new notes complete sooner!

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 8:36pm

15ft sets off Sydney ?

penmister's picture
penmister's picture
penmister Wednesday, 17 Feb 2016 at 10:39pm

Paddle the spit to straddie...take in the poo shoot..