Watch: Goin' left...

Stu Nettle
Swellnet Dispatch

The timing is fabulous: two clips, each of goofyfoots in elongated lefts, land in my inbox within minutes of each other. Both shameless promotional trips, so they've got that in common too.

I hit play on one, then follow suit on the other, and travel from Nusa Tengarra to the Namib - boardies to steamer, shimmering blue water to fifty shades of grey.

Each is strangely unFOMO-inducing, perhaps we've passed that point now? The clips, they positively rain down, each with a fraction less impact then the one before.

But still, there are worse ways to fill fifteen minutes than watching perfect waves, especially for the goofyfooters out there.

Comments

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Wednesday, 11 Sep 2019 at 5:18pm

You’d never want to go right again.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Wednesday, 11 Sep 2019 at 8:15pm

i don't

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 9:04pm

I’ll second this goofyfoot. If it ain’t a left it’s a close out

eel's picture
eel's picture
eel commented Wednesday, 11 Sep 2019 at 7:00pm

How over done is Desert Point and Skeleton Bay? And I'm a goofy foot.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Wednesday, 11 Sep 2019 at 7:05pm

It’s good.

Better the focus is concentrated.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 commented Wednesday, 11 Sep 2019 at 7:25pm

I've barely been left all winter

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Wednesday, 11 Sep 2019 at 7:30pm

Me either.

Getting emotional.

P'tai's picture
P'tai's picture
P'tai commented Wednesday, 11 Sep 2019 at 9:30pm

I've started surfing switchfoot, just to face the wave for a change. Quite challenging, yet liberating.

Switchfoot bob's picture
Switchfoot bob's picture
Switchfoot bob commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 9:23am

Good work buddy!

switch's picture
switch's picture
switch commented Friday, 13 Sep 2019 at 7:50pm

What, I'm no unicorn?

Switchfoot bob's picture
Switchfoot bob's picture
Switchfoot bob commented Tuesday, 17 Sep 2019 at 7:44pm

sorry to tell ya theres a few ive heard

switch's picture
switch's picture
switch commented Tuesday, 17 Sep 2019 at 7:58pm

Maybe I am the only one who is crap at both? :)

Switchfoot bob's picture
Switchfoot bob's picture
Switchfoot bob commented Tuesday, 17 Sep 2019 at 9:53pm

Ha ha ha Nah I'm crap tooooo

Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 11:26am

I picked a few old vhs tapes made by surfers journal, from a surf shop in Phillip island close to twenty years ago.
One was on Wayne lynch, another profiled Jim banks...
The later describes surfing a session in indo that was so
"perfect" that afterward he quit surfing, and only really body surfed afterwards.
It was a very interesting turn of events, made for a good narrative.
Its really interesting , thermal said we have reached saturation point with surfing/ media.
I still think this footage would evoke younger generation s of surfers to "Search" for those waves.
" de mystified the barrel" . who said that recently.
You can't v/r the hold down . the experience or the travel hold down / struggle.

surfstarved's picture
surfstarved's picture
surfstarved commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 11:53am

Nick wins in the music stakes, Koa hands down for barrel time.

Don't let the bastards grind you down

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 11:55am

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 12:02pm

That’s a pretty nice shirt , Stu.

Eye of the tiger.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 12:04pm

I don't own it but it's gotta be the best surf shirt ever.

Eclipsing even my Mambo MP cutback shirt with the coconut husk buttons.

And that's a big call.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 12:23pm

Agree.

I reckon there’s a substantial case for the desire of a goofy to go left to qualify as a religion.

Wait a minute....coconut husk buttons !?!?

Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 2:07pm

LOL !

mr mick's picture
mr mick's picture
mr mick commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 6:35pm

Must be some BIG buttons!!

Mr mick

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 1:51pm

You couldn't wear it as it would be up on the shed wall.

frog's picture
frog's picture
frog commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 1:25pm

One of my theories is that crowds would be way worse except for how surfing videos have created unrealistic expectations among younger surfers as to what a good surf is. As a grommet in the 70s I had no idea how bad my average surf was relative to benchmarks like Indo and Skeleton Bay. If I had I might of thought "this sucks" rather than being stoked I got a few good waves.

I reckon a lot of young surfers (and even long time surfers) have the surfing equivalent of erectile dysfunction from too much surfporn. The contrast to the realities of surfing average waves or hassles of crowded perfection is just too great. People are fussier and quit the sport more easily than in the past percentage wise.

Many more non-surf distractions these days as well.

Fortunately, population growth and those ex pro run surf schools have not created the tsunami of newbies that could have occurred.

If you can somehow keep expectations in check there are a lot of fun uncrowded average days as a result.

Frogg

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 1:33pm

Sorry , Frog, but average days can get fucked. Sure they might be fun but I want to be thrilled. You’ve got to aspire to excitement because a memory bank filled with average waves is like a beige suit at a sober party.

They’re like the Crocodile Dundee quote “ You can survive on it , but it tastes like shit. “

Grab as many great waves as you can in your life cause age will confine you to the average dribble before you know it.

Bonus joke - Q/ What’s the best thing about Switzerland ?

A/ I’m not sure but their flag is a huge plus.

Another one ?

My wife says I’m addicted to drinking brake fluid....but I can stop anytime I want.

More ?

I’ve got nothing but respect for disabled sex workers . You’ve certainly got to hand it to blind prostitutes.

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 1:50pm

On fire Blowin!

mattlock's picture
mattlock's picture
mattlock commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 2:03pm

I agree Blowin . Get as many as thrilling ones as you can while you can. It surprises me sometimes when I look in the mirror and see this old guy looking back at me. But I sure know I'm getting old when I try and paddle over the ledge into a beast.

I was telling my mate the other day how much I like sexy knickers but they tend to chafe while I'm working.

Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 2:10pm

What's the best waves you have surfed?

frog's picture
frog's picture
frog commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 3:08pm

Blowin. My point was how surfing has a sort inbuilt crowd moderator. The quit rates and can't be bothered rates are very high compared to if uncrowded perfection was easy to get or if expectations driven upwards by surf vids were lower.

Crowds on good days can be ridiculous but without the feedback moderators, if every surfer never quit and surfed regularly, they would be unbearable.

Personally surfing macaronis for two days at pumping 4 to 6 foot with an average crowd of 5 was incredible peak experience. But surfing a slighty wind affected b grade wave - burger world - peeling like noosa with 2 people all afternoon was so much fun in as well.

Crap surf is of course crap surf and i rarely touch it.

Frogg

Spuddups's picture
Spuddups's picture
Spuddups commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 6:14pm

Crap surf is generally okay so long as you're catching plenty of waves and it's not surfing them all the time. Surfing crap surf and catching fuck all waves at the same time is a bad combo. That said, if the above scenario is happening on a sunny day, in a nice place, with a couple of your good mates then I generally still find myself having a good time.
Having kids was a great thing for my surf stoke. I'll surf pretty much anything these days and be thankful for the opportunity. I reckon I was fairly jaded for a while in my mid 20's when I could surf whenever I liked and was doing trips to Indo every year.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 7:19pm

Agree totally Spuddups...I similarly got a little jaded in my 20's but had the good fortune of meeting a bloke at uni from the bush who had never surfed. We did a deal where he would teach me how to ride a horse and I'd teach him to surf. Seeing him in the water the first few times completely out of sorts, barely able to paddle on his stomach, getting worked and coming up laughing out loud just turned the switch back on for me in an instant. Pure unaffected stoke. He still surfs daily 25 years later. I never did go anywhere on a horse though...those things scare the shit out of me.

Years later having my son at 43 my opportunities to surf were limited for the first time ever. "Priorities" like work, relationships etc up until then had always come a distant second place to chasing waves at all costs. I struggled real hard to surrender to putting being a father first but eventually my love for my son and wife won out over selfishness. Those first few years I would only have short windows to surf and would surf anything with pure happiness...if I lucked into good waves it was a bonus...I was just grateful to be in the water and getting a little time alone most of the time!

But having said all that I did chase the best possible waves relentlessly for 20 years...so I get your point Blowin for sure. I think that it's all part of the magic of surfing that it ebbs and flows through you in so many different ways through so many varied times of your life.

I'm not cheap,
But I'm free.

Spuddups's picture
Spuddups's picture
Spuddups commented Thursday, 12 Sep 2019 at 6:08pm

Surfing is pretty hard to learn. There's a lot of other things for the kids to do these days as well. Round here there's basically no grommets. The water's too cold and it takes too much effort to score waves. I think they're more interested in playing Minecraft or something.

JackStance's picture
JackStance's picture
JackStance commented Saturday, 14 Sep 2019 at 8:33pm

cool angles. pity those dudes seem so into themselfies...
such a sick wave.

Breath. Murdoch's empire will one day fail to control our minds.

Chris Tacke's picture
Chris Tacke's picture
Chris Tacke commented Sunday, 15 Sep 2019 at 4:36pm

l keep my expectations low l get enjoyment just from paddling and l stop on the shoulder and just watch the swell line and the
wave break l get joy just from that, my wave count is 3 or 4 for a good surf, anything else is a bonus haven't had many bad surfs.