This interview with Aaron Gold after his two wave hold-down/near death experience makes for interesting reading, if only to access the internal workings of what makes some of these big-wave guys tick.
Sorry to source something from the competition, in my experience their forecasts are rubbish anyway!
Guy was surrounded by a good crew, apparently including the Big Fella.
just replace "God" with "The Sea" and the article makes about the same sense.
Yeah it's intriguing Happy - eleven mentions that I saw in the interview of "god" or "him".
once I put my god filter on, its a good read. heres a nice one......
"....trivial things don’t matter. So it’s a great reminder of what is important, and helps to put things to rest and restore relationships. And you just give thanks for being alive and for another day, and for the reminder of what is important. And take that lesson moving forward."
I like God, he's nice and the gift of freewill to us should be used wisely.
I've never met him/her.
I like Happy's interpretation, no matter what your beliefs, hopefully they can keep things in perspective and help you to appreciate the good things and minimise the impact of the bad.
Tim Minchin explains why god saved Aaron Gold.
Aaron Gold f*cking charges and can believe whatever he wants, as can we all. Glad he made it.