It took two days for the urge to resurface after surfing till the monkey was off my back. Temporarily it seems.
One day in town taking care of bullshit that had me mentally occupied.
Today was a glorious opportunity to enjoy a habitually rugged coast with its peaceful face on. Still winds, clear water and the usual blaring sunshine. Fishing early to great success then a dive to escape gravity's relentless hold and to get a better grasp on the world we become a part of whenever we grab a wave. Then it's a sobriety-optional walk along the beach remarking on the coral reef remnants strewn through the limestone cliffs.
But now those glances towards the point are just a bit more wistful. Hungrier.
That's it. I'm over the substitutes. The reef is there. The winds are perfect. There is fuck all surfers around. All we need now is swell.
If it doesn't show then it looks like Emu Export will feature heavily on the menu.
Don't do it to me Huey. Please ?
The Bluff? you got there quick. I was thinking of heading up there sometime in the next two weeks this thursday might be a small wave then next monday night and tuesday looks really good.
Wind might be too south though.Keep us updated.How much is it a night to sleep in a van or bus at the camp spot? or has that all changed with the leasing?