Surfing is not a sport. Surfing is a god-like experience…and I don’t even believe in god. Surfing is like nothing else in the world. I’ve had the privilege to surf in Indonesia, Costa Rica, England, France, Bahamas, Ireland, Norway and even Sweden and the experience is always the same – it brings you closer to nature than anything else. No matter if the water is +30° like in Costa Rica or +6° like in Sweden, when you paddle out there in nothing but your board and board shorts or wetsuit you feel a flow of energy entering your body.
Surfing is basically a sports type or whatever you think according to your self. I love surfing because i love to play with water, high waves. This is the reason i love surfing.
Because, hhmmm, only a surfer knows the feeling.
Good for you, it sounds great ..
Here is a cool video
I love surfing because I get to spray people in the face , there by forcing them to acknowledge my existence - something that only happens on dry land if I try to do a runner on my fuel bill at the service station.
I love surfing cause i get barrel stiffies