freeride76, 1713310277
Classic.
Major kong, 1713311738
Cool as
Plasticspastic, 1713317156
I love it. I have been working on riding shorter boards in meduim sized waves with a twin fin/narrow tail set up for a few years now and t has been working quite well. drops are later, but the smaller board allows you to get to your feet and get under lips etc more easily..... The biggest issue is chop. if the conditions are clean or low wind, you can defiantly push the limit. I did find a heavier board did help with the chop, but that made it harder to catch the wave., so then added more volume under the chest.... interesting to see jug having great success..... still one of my most treasured memories was surfing 8ft Lennox on a 5'6 Gary Mcneil torus twin a few years ago.
eel, 1713318010
Fuck yea! What a legend.
stunet, 1713320056
Yeah I've also been mucking around with shorter boards. Even got a file signed off by Stretch Riedel to make one of his Comp Guns - usually shaped between 8 and 10 feet in length - reduced down to 6'4". Flat deck, lots of foam forward, paddles like a demon.
The Wiz Fish I mentioned in the interview is also full of surprises when I push the limits on that thing.
Not too keen on twins, I find quads balance the lack of a rail line.
sarge4, 1713320800
Lord!
Slackjawedyokel, 1713320805
Jesus Christ.
It’s like an entirely different sport to what I’m doing
freeride76, 1713320823
Just looking at that tiny board on that big wave gives me the heeby jeebies.
Plasticspastic, 1713322411
Wow what size are you taking the 6'4 out in? I feel that Twins give you that speed - I am running quite big raked fins - none of this D- type, and the tail is quite pulled in so I get a lot of drive. Maybe the Torus Channel through the middle of the board is helping in maintaining the rail line. The twins also make you use your rails more, which means you never do the speed slide out at the bottom of a big wave like you can sometimes do a thruster...
thermalben, 1713322456
How about paddling? Not into waves, but across lineups with voluminous currents? Surely that'd be a struggle.
goofyfoot, 1713323934
Yeah nah, not keen on taking off under the lip on bigger waves.
Don't have the skill required to do it.
Get me in early any day.
Robwilliams, 1713323977
you know he's going to go
repeat from last year
https://youtu.be/4k2pia9_G4Y?si=mk0cBCbV7RfUq410
basesix, 1713325675
ha, epic! great context with FTS'83
(7" 8"?)
udo, 1713326120
Out there somewhere is a few Waves of Jug at Big Ulu on this Board
https://youtu.be/VyG7OS0u-Ro?si=9LbeGMhwmBPI8cjI
udo, 1713327207
Playable @ 1:25 speed
https://youtu.be/M1CiPgCaU_o?si=OGC0GE56elBt7JuG
Craig, 1713328623
Same, a big hell no!
Crazy stuff by Jug.
FrazP, 1713329362
You would have to think so Ben. It's the struggle in bigger beachies - just getting into a spot and staying there. Can't imagine being able to do it on a little board - outside of being on hell of an intensely fit human.
thermalben, 1713329418
The "intensely fit human" has always been a weak spot for me, too.
Island Bay, 1713329443
x 3 - In early and a long rail for me, thanks.
What an insane effort.
stunet, 1713329899
Up to about 10'-12' at the local, which would normally warrant another foot or so of board.
I haven't ridden it for a while, when the local is that size there's lots of paddling involved and my fitness hasn't been there lately.
goofyfoot, 1713330106
How big does the local hold Stu?
stunet, 1713330545
Effectively, anything, it's a 500m long point so can't close out, but the shape begins falling apart after about 8'-10' depending on direction, and on the rare instances it does get bigger there are usually better options elsewhere (read: protected).
zenagain, 1713330763
It's a conundrum for me- I've moved to bigger, fatter, wider boards because I myself am bigger, fatter and wider. Purely to catch more waves. However, once riding said waves, I'm kinda left wanting because I still want to turn but my equipment is not allowing that.
So, when a shaper can shape a 6'0"x19"x2 1/2" @ 40 litres, he'll have a customer in me.
goofyfoot, 1713330867
Yeah wow, what a set up.
stunet, 1713331725
Flat decks, Zen.
Keep it thick-ish from your chest to the nose, too.
Dunno if you'll get it to 40 but there's a few hidden litres there.
udo, 1713332473
Play around with this Zen. . .
Yep Flat Decks and Nose to Chest Area you can Sneak in Extra Litres
https://nulltuul.com/surfboard-volume-calculator/
Plasticspastic, 1713333022
yeah that's epic stu... I have a couple of spots that hold bigger where I test my big little board. 2 of them are super hollow, so the under the lip works, the other one, is out to sea a bit and lurches on the takeoff, is generally windy and hard work and that gives me significant trouble... so there is definetly places where it the small board approach does and doesn't work...
zenagain, 1713333157
Cheers guys, I was actually kinda joking (not really) about the above. Bloke my age around 75kgs still ripping on 28lt Mayhem. I'm jealous.
Optimist, 1713333553
Lee winkler also rode little 5’9” boards at big cloudbreak years ago.
scottishsponger, 1713334465
Not bad for a paranoid anti-vaxxer!
andy-mac, 1713335993
Crazy!
Hard to comprehend paddling out in surf that size st best of times, but on a board under 7'.
Ability and guts does the job I guess...
Solitude, 1713338846
Good on ya if you can. Wonder why 5’9, not say 6’2 or something, could still turn very well but have a more paddle power.
Island Bay, 1713338992
To hell with turning in those waves, haha
Solitude, 1713339253
Haha, true. Take off and run!
velocityjohnno, 1713340374
x4
Incredible wave and design progression by these guys though! I remember Ando on the little Hypto Crypto in those big lefts and it kind of hypnotised surfing into little boards for over half a decade, I'll stick with paddle and rail length out in the wind far offshore this time around.
bbbird, 1713352141
surfing 8ft Lennox on any good board is awesome... if you know what your doing
Big Cloudbreak is next level... go for it;.... only, if, you, know, what, your doing
A bigger board would help getting on to the wave earlier before that lip throws..
bbbird, 1713353412
The right amount of tail lift / rocker can make any length of board turn....
eg. Ghost
https://www.pyzelsurfboards.com/index.php?page=surfboard-details&id=6545
& even longboards
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfuGTXK-KQ
I focus, 1713354901
"They're are a bit wider than I'd normally ride in bigger waves, they're 19 wide"
19"... FFS
Maxwell Davies, 1713361074
I ride the boogie, and jug would take off deeper and sit in closer to the reef on a board that looked shorter than my foam biscuit out toowoony front
Lanky Dean, 1713364180
Zen,
What you weighing in at now days vs 10 / 20 years ago ?
Lanky Dean, 1713368318
LOL...aptly put...nice play on words
Rusty Roof, 1713387827
Try the Machado seaside.
5'11" 41.4 litres.
I'm 59 and it feels like I've knocked 20 years off when paddling and catching waves.
Haven't ridden it over 5ft (8ft face) though.
Been tinkering and reading more about fin set ups so I can keep riding shorter boards.
And finally having to commit to daily exercises to maintain strength for paddling.
Hate that bit but it's having an impact
andy-mac, 1713388870
I had a Seaside for the Sunny Coast dribble, went really well. Now I have a Hayden Shapes Virtue for those small days and it goes unreal, feels a bit like seaside with volume up front, but tail pulled in so has more of a performance feel. Rode Seaside with the Machado 4 fin setup, Virtue with thruster setup. Have surfed it up to 4 foot and went alright, but generally only use it when 1-2 foot, but makes surfs that would have been crap, fun.
https://au.haydenshapes.com/collections/virtue
velocityjohnno, 1713392672
absolutely! Have taken one rocker and modded it as such and tbh it's my favourite, can take any drop and turns are compacted. There's more to it than just a couple of sentences but it's just so good!
zenagain, 1713395391
Low 90's now. 10 years ago, high 90's, 20 years ago mid 80's.
Just turned 56. 180cm of pure, dripping love.
Currently riding 6'6" HyptoKrypto and enjoying it. Catches waves well and I can surf it, just sometimes in decent waves wanting something a little more hi-po.
Island Bay, 1713396849
Maybe this? Shows you how much volume you can pack in with a flat deck, and by all accounts it goes really well in a wide range of waves.
https://www.pyzelsurfboards.com/?page=surfboard-details&id=19099
zenagain, 1713397945
Cheers IB, a few years ago I got an MC Dirty Dingo and it went really really well @ 6'2"- looks similar to the above in planshape.
I'm cool, I'm enjoying my surfing, just gradually accepting the fact that my rip tear lacerate days are behind me.
Island Bay, 1713398253
Goody. Makes two of us.
No way to avoid the slow slide into old age, so we have to learn to accept the new reality. (60 and 80kg)
feltz1, 1713400242
Support your local shapers! Wiz and Jug are a prime example of this, two of the best. Jug is ageing like a fine red wine. There is no slowing him down, he just keeps on giving - so inspirational. Those of us that ride Wizstix boards know what it's all about - Gary the quiet legend - drop in and see him at the Long Jetty factory, you may even leave with the stick of a lifetime! How can you beat the knowledge of 50+ years of handcrafting these unreal boards? He knows exactly where to place the foam that keeps us surfing till a ripe old age. A true craftsman.
thermalben, 1713414614
I like the look of that board! Hmmmm.
mick-free, 1713420868
Jug said with bigger board catch more wind.
If you watch closely with Billy Kempers wipeout at Cloudbreak March 7 his outside rail catches too much wind once it starts to go he can't pull it back and rotates him into the void.
ashsam, 1713441804
Who?
ashsam, 1713442043
Still 7 inches taller than him lol he still rips see him often.
Lanky Dean, 1713455408
I'm about similar I've been weighing in the same for 20 years, stuck around at 80.
I've surfed eps boards for the last couple of years.
I've had this 6'6" I just Can't get off of.
It's actually kinda weird.
Like what happened weird.
Those longer boards moderate your surfing and kinda force you to draw clean lines
If you told me half a decade ago that I would ride a stringerless 6' 6" ......
I would have laughed..... what the heck.
Like you I surf in a 5/4 all year except in summer 4/3.
Lanky Dean, 1713455478
@Rusty roof
How tall , how much do you weigh?
Lanky Dean, 1713455596
Big shout out to the crazy cats of the central coast !
Rusty Roof, 1713473635
Hi LD
I'm 5'9". Probably around 80kg
Shoulders are knackered. Backs not much better.
But better than going to a mal
Island Bay, 1713479502
Did a reverse Jughead this morning: 8'0 gun in 6ft point surf. Loved it.
freeride76, 1713480889
Reverse Jughead- hahahahaha.
Right with you there IB.
FrazP, 1713486440
Have you tried the Misc from Hayden? I have both and prefer it in good waves
FrazP, 1713486597
6ft IB - lucky you. 1-2ft around here.
zenagain, 1713489340
No Fraz, but thanks for the heads-up. I'll check it out.
goofyfoot, 1713492079
That’s a Bells Beach special
Island Bay, 1713493589
Clever people over there :-)
quokka, 1713493846
I ride one of these with MR Twins and trailer, goes really well. I'm 179cm and about 85kg.
https://lostsurfboards.com.au/collections/shop-all/products/quiverkiller?variant=40853033550030
Lanky Dean, 1713505693
If it's marginal I surf a 8' eps glider with a quad set up.
Over 2 feet I surf.......a 6'6" eps board.
Rarely surf me short boards lately.
Lacrosse balls for your back and shoulders...
Roll your back out .... constant maintenance nowdays .....you probably should ....ahh maybe I'll write about it.?
Lanky Dean, 1713505796
The glide, love it...can you duck dive it?
Lanky Dean, 1713505867
Sunset Beach also, if you can't beat them join them.
velocityjohnno, 1713508433
Please do LD.
Lanky Dean, 1713540721
Ok VJ
Will do, first thing cut out ...........
Lanky Dean, 1713541448
Hahaha classic.
You're never too deep if your pulling in!
Jug jug jug jug jug!
Cenny coast mayhem.
Spuddups, 1713574241
I think it all comes down to how quickly you pop up to your feet. I used to ride quite short boards if fairly sizey surf but now I'm in my 50's I've slowed down by just that split second and I can't seem to get in under the lip like I used to. I haven't gone full rhino chaser just yet, but I can see a future where that's a reality.
Island Bay, 1713575299
Embrace the size!
Definitely a case of age-related slowing down, but also a matter of how ones tastes change. Outside point here is a firm fave, and I know which boards work really well for me. Yesterday I brought a 6'4 step up (Ghost), and the 8'0. Could have gone either way, but picked the big one. Fun to change around a bit.
But a 5'9 at 10ft CB is just beyond my comprehension.
NDC, 1713610147
I think Garry at whizstix is one of the great underground innovators … and so approachable - walk into his unassuming long jetty workshop and ur having a direct conversation with the main man and you feel his got ample time for you as Joe average, walk in non-pro surfer
That said, I loved his boards front side but backside, like other shovel nose fishy shapes I had zero success.
My groveller is now a 5’9 FireWire dan Mann chum Lee and it’s the best grovelliw I have ever ridden by a wide margin. And I have success front side and back side (in small surf - under the lip at 15-25’ cloudbreak? Turning? At 10’ I want in early and go straight. At 12’ I’m usually watching - haha)
Really keen to now try and switch the 5’9 from a thruster to quad - picking up on stunets remark that a quad can balance out the short rail
Great thread. Thanks all.
Island Bay, 1713655087
Yep, just.
greg-n.williams, 1713686222
6'6" Baker hybrid quad (wide nose & pintail 40lts+) bought it for a of summer slop board & rarely jump off it now unless it is very hollow on the take off. I'm 6'1" 90kg's & sixty something, horses for courses.